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MarkO1

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Lost power (AGAIN) last night. Luckilly I awoke when I noticed the airconditioner off. My backup now consists of a DC/AC inverter and my car battery. I only run the return pump (about 25 watts) on it, but my backup is only good IF I notice the power is out.
I'm wondering if anyone can give recommendations for an Uninterupted Power Supply.
Thanks in advance!
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aquarist=broke

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Well MarkO,

I don't know what everybody is using, but I followed some advice from the boards about using the computer uninterrupted power supplys.

I purchased a Belkin 350(around $50.00) and It runs one of my small powerheads for about 45 minutes(more or less). It's relatively small, but it was all I could afford. Maybe the more expensive larger ones can run more things for longer.?

Thats all I could recommend other than an expensive home gas powered electricity generator...........

Good Luck....
 

MarkO1

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Thanks Marco, looks like my next project.
I live in Canal Place II... we've been having power outages due to an old underground cable that can't handle the load. It's Mass Electrics cable, but they just won't replace it. :evil:
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fishfarmer

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Marcosreef,

What can you run with your backup system and how long will it run?

MarkO,

Check www.majorpower.com for various back up power sources for electrically challenged or lazy types like me :wink: . I'm still searching myself, I'm probably going to go with a system that will automatically switch to battery back up and run two small powerheads or two airstones, one in sump, one in tank. I would love to be able to run my sump pump and a heater/chiller, but I think a generater would be in order and I would have to be home to fire it up.
 

bwightman

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MarkO,

I would suggest that you look at the following options:

UPS system with a long enough run time, based on your load.
or
APS inverter (same as a UPS) except for external batteries.

A UPS for long run times >10 hours at loads of >100VA can get expensive.
But for some models see: www.apcc.com or www.tripplite.com

For longer runtimes an APS inverter is ideal. These type of inverters replace generators, with low noise, no gasoline, and equal power.
They require external batteries, and fuses, but run times can exceed days with correctly sized batteries for the load. They also can be run continuously for off-the-line power. For models see: http://www.tripplite.com/products/inverters/aps.cfm
12V volt models are rediable avaliable, to estimate power rating. Take the total power of all the devices to be connected to the inverter and double that. The APS1012 would be more than enough for the average tank, with lots of pumps etc. You could even power lights off it too!

I recommend that you use marine deep cycle sealed batteries, for in house use. The chargers incorporated into the inverters will not let the battery overcharge, thus preventing venting of the battery. Batteries for this type of use must be rated for >20 hours at the calculated current, such as: 25A/H rated for 22 hours. That would give you ~250VA over 22 hours.

Also I've noticed lately reading posts, that people are using standard inverters for power backup. Only frequency controlled inverters should be used on devices that use line frequency for timing: motors, pumps, etc.

If an APS and UPS is out of reach, then and smaller non-continuous use frequency controlled inverter would be great, with the addition of a AC detect circuit, a zero crossing semiconductor switch, and some control.
 

bertoni

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Don't know whether this applies to you, but if you have any microprocessor controllers in your system, you might want to have a small computer UPS for them; $80 or so for a small HP unit. This type of UPS will give a clean, constant power source. Digital circuits can do bad things with flaky power. Heaters and pumps are usually more tolerant.
 

Dewman

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8O OK, I know this is totally off the subject, but am I the only one who thinks it's totally wierd that two people from the same town in the same state, chose basically the same Username on the same bulletin board!!! :D Is Lowell, Mass the nexus of the universe??

I just thought you two would have noticed that and said something by now. I was getting confused reading all the posts as to who said what. Sorry, I have a knack for pointing out the blatently obvious :wink:

Ok, sorry for the interruption, now back to the discussion...
 

sdt5150

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MarkO...

IMHO, the best, and unfortunately most expensive way to do this would be a propane generator with an automatic switch that turns on when power to the house is lost. It might be overkill financially for a smaller reef, but you never have to worry about running out of batteries, and having a potential hazard in the house.

Be careful what sort of inverter you buy if you go the inverter route. I purchased one from Monolith Marine Monsters in December, and found out the hard way that the sine wave technology they used in the inverter is not compatible with heaters. When the heaters switched on, the unit caught fire and tripped all the GFIs in the system causing a major problem that could have burned the house down if I wasn't working in my filter room in the basement at the time where the unit was located. MMM is aware of this (they refunded my money when they realized this...apparently the manufacturer hadn't bothered testing aquarium epuipment when they started marketing the unit), so is the company that produces the unit, yet MMM still has the units for sale on their site.
 

Marcosreef

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fishfarmer":w86iqj84 said:
Marcosreef,

What can you run with your backup system and how long will it run?

My current setup will run my 2 Minijet 606 for about 12 hours on a 17 Amp Hour battery. Once I get a 100 amp hour battery installed and a 500 watt inverter, I will be able to run the pumps, heat, fan, top-off, and one 28w PC for about the same amount of time.

bwightman":w86iqj84 said:
MarkO,

I would suggest that you look at the following options:

UPS system with a long enough run time, based on your load.
or
APS inverter (same as a UPS) except for external batteries.

If DIY is a problem, a APS inverter is a good choice. You can add as many batteries as needed for your setup. Esp. important for our big gallon reefers out there.

http://www.tripplite.com/products/inverters/aps.cfm This is a excellent APS or standard inverter to use. Also on their site you can find a formula for sizing your inverter battery size.

Dewman":w86iqj84 said:
OK, I know this is totally off the subject, but am I the only one who thinks it's totally wierd that two people from the same town in the same state, chose basically the same Username on the same bulletin board!!! Is Lowell, Mass the nexus of the universe??

I just thought you two would have noticed that and said something by now. I was getting confused reading all the posts as to who said what. Sorry, I have a knack for pointing out the blatently obvious

I've noticed too! I was waiting for the right time to post! :D

sdt5150":w86iqj84 said:
Be careful what sort of inverter you buy if you go the inverter route. I purchased one from Monolith Marine Monsters in December, and found out the hard way that the sine wave technology they used in the inverter is not compatible with heaters. When the heaters switched on, the unit caught fire and tripped all the GFIs in the system causing a major problem that could have burned the house down if I wasn't working in my filter room in the basement at the time where the unit was located. MMM is aware of this (they refunded my money when they realized this...apparently the manufacturer hadn't bothered testing aquarium epuipment when they started marketing the unit), so is the company that produces the unit, yet MMM still has the units for sale on their site.

I remember reading your original post about this before building my backup. I even posted asking if anyone knew if heaters would be a problem on a inverter and most said it's okay.

Most high-wattage inverters seem not have a problem with heater loads. I choose the Tripp-Lite PV500FC unit because it has a transformer coil, so it's not completely electronic.

I will post back after testing this unit with a 150w heater cranked full on and post the results.

Best Regards, Marco
 

MarkO1

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Just based on my experience, I have found that when my power does go out, it is out for 4-6 hours, with the longest outage lasting 14.
All of the outages have been occuring due to an overload of an underground cable. Overloads are only occuring in the summer (makes sense). So in my case, the only item I really need hooked up is my return pump. Even in winter, the lowest my tank gets is 78º since the lights and pumps keep it on average 10º higher than the ambient temp.
Thanks to Marco (yes... this is extremely coincendental), I think I am going to rig up an automatic switch for the return pump running off battery power via an AC/DC inverter.

I probably won't be able to get around to rigging something up for a few weeks. Hopefully I'll be home when the power goes out (if it does). When I do get it working, I'll keep you posted.
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