Complex canopy
- Thread starter craw
- Start date
That's pretty neat... only I'm confused? Is that going to sit on top of your canopy?
Also, I'd question using the aluminum tubing for the exit air... it's going to be humid and salty, and likely to rust. While you still have it all under construction, check and see if you can get some plastic dryer venting from your local Hardware store instead.
- Mac
Also, I'd question using the aluminum tubing for the exit air... it's going to be humid and salty, and likely to rust. While you still have it all under construction, check and see if you can get some plastic dryer venting from your local Hardware store instead.
- Mac
This will actually be bolted to the back of the stand and canopy. I'll try to get a picture of it so you'll understand a little better. As for using dryer vent. I could not find 8 inch tubing and I kind of figured that being aluminum/steel combo there will be no build up of condensation 1. because there will be air moving all the time help with evaporation of condensation and 2. the heat from the halides should also he evaporate the condensation. I'll see if I can post a picture today some time.
Mike
Mike
RE:#2, this is exactly what I mean.. the air is being evacuated from underneath your hood, right? That's right over the tank, and under the halides? That's the hottest and wettest the air's ever going to get.
As that air travels down the exhaust pipe, it will cool down. As it cool's, it's ability to hold the evaporated water decreases, and you get condensation.
I realize the air will constantly be flowing through that pipe, trying to evaporate the condensed water, however the air that's flowing over it is already saturated wrt to humidity at the temp. it's at, and it will constantly be cooling down, the further away it gets from the source.
- Mac
As that air travels down the exhaust pipe, it will cool down. As it cool's, it's ability to hold the evaporated water decreases, and you get condensation.
I realize the air will constantly be flowing through that pipe, trying to evaporate the condensed water, however the air that's flowing over it is already saturated wrt to humidity at the temp. it's at, and it will constantly be cooling down, the further away it gets from the source.
- Mac
Couldn't agree more with not using steel tube for exhaust.
IMO, I would rather use platic flex hose, or fiberglass the wood and not use tubing at all.
As an after thought, I should have coated the entire inside of my hood with fiberglass. It's amazing what salt water can do to wood.
IMO, I would rather use platic flex hose, or fiberglass the wood and not use tubing at all.
As an after thought, I should have coated the entire inside of my hood with fiberglass. It's amazing what salt water can do to wood.
On top of the tank I will be using the acrylic covers. (which I did fail to mention sorry) So the amount of water evaporation shoule be minimal. Fiberglassing 3 - 30 foot runs of pipes would be very expensive. and I looked into 8 inch pvc that also proved to be more expensive then using ductwork. I could not find 8 inch collapsible dryer venting, and my guess is that being plastic it would retain the condensation longer the steel, but then again I will have to worry about the metal duct work sweating in the summer. 8O . If I could find 8 - inch dryer venting I would almost be swayed to go that way just because it would be easier to work with. I guess I'll keep searching. Thanks for the feed back guys.
Why not just use 2x4-Inch, or whatever the largest size you can get is? You'd only have to have the opening be large diameter, and then could split it into two smaller pipes? That way if you do have to coat/protect/replace/ any sections it would be very small.
- Mac
- Mac
The 500 cfm fans are 8 inch in dia. and I was trying to keep it all the same size. Even though I was thinking about throttling back the fans by redicing the power I did not want to restrict the air flow and put excessive strain on the motors. The fans are kind of like an AM3000. ther are made for volumn and not for excessive back pressure. (and they dont leak :wink: ).
Yeah, if you can find 5" diameter, I'll betcha you could split the single pipe into two, and not produce significant back-pressure. Might even be PVC fitings available, but I would call a commercial supply house, rather than HD. If anything, the flexi-style tubing might be better suited for making bends/corner's and such.
- Mac
- Mac
I have found something great for inside of hoods and such. Paint on pick up truck bed liner. One brand name is "herculiner" sold at k mart amongst other places. I have used this stuff on other items and as of yet have NOT tried it on this so try at your own risk for now. I plan on trying it on a hood I am going to build next week sometime. Great product as it is more or less an invincable finish. DO NOT. get in on skin. It takes forever to come off and even lava is hard pressed to wash it off.
One more time, I have NOT yet tried it on a hood yet so use at your own risk. I plan to try it soon.
One more time, I have NOT yet tried it on a hood yet so use at your own risk. I plan to try it soon.
Good thought Rookie.
I've used MArine Epoxy Paint from my local boating supply place in a hood with good luck. Designed for humid/wet conditions once cured. The only drawback to it, is it's not very tough when it comes to UV light (halides!). I emailed w/ the manufacturer a couple times, and just coated the epoxy paint with some oil based outdoor trim paint (white). Worked great. The Manufacturer (West Systems) suggested Oil based, as it would adhere to the epoxy best.
- Mac
I've used MArine Epoxy Paint from my local boating supply place in a hood with good luck. Designed for humid/wet conditions once cured. The only drawback to it, is it's not very tough when it comes to UV light (halides!). I emailed w/ the manufacturer a couple times, and just coated the epoxy paint with some oil based outdoor trim paint (white). Worked great. The Manufacturer (West Systems) suggested Oil based, as it would adhere to the epoxy best.
- Mac
Craw,
The expoxy paint as Mac pointed out is not very resiliant to the UV that MH produce. However, if you coat the expoxy with a UV resistant marine varnish, it works wonderfully. Don't you live in the Crystal Lake area here in Illinois? If so I have some ideas about your exhaust design, I work for a major hardware wholesaler and have access to some flexible venting material that could prove to be worthwhile.
Best Regards,
MDA
The expoxy paint as Mac pointed out is not very resiliant to the UV that MH produce. However, if you coat the expoxy with a UV resistant marine varnish, it works wonderfully. Don't you live in the Crystal Lake area here in Illinois? If so I have some ideas about your exhaust design, I work for a major hardware wholesaler and have access to some flexible venting material that could prove to be worthwhile.
Best Regards,
MDA
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