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PDang

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Hello to all reefers,

I have a problem with the DIY stand for my new 180G tank. The problem is that the bottom front and the back sides of the tank are not completely flush with the stand. On the back, it has gap that is less 1/16". On the front side has gap that are between 1/16 - 1.5/16" that run about 2/3 of the length starting from the left. This was the first time I ever built a stand for fish tank (especially this big size) so I really don't know what kind of problem I will encounter if I don't address this problem. I was thinking about putting shims along the gap, but don't know if it's the right thing to do or not.
The tank is empty. I'm in the process of setting up the tank (it's a new tank) so it's going to be awhile before putting water in. I think the gaps are the result of the stand not straight, meaning I did not put all the pieces together perfectly or the 2x4 pieces that the tank rest on are not perfectly straight. Since the gap on the front side run along 2/3 of the length, I was afraid that when water is in, the pressure might cause the seams to fail and the plastic bottom frame will break if it bend too much under the weight pressure. Does anybody has any idea on how much the plastic frame can bend safely before it breaks? For the back side, I might have the gut and put water in to let thing settle and see if the gaps get resolved themselves (since gap is < 1/16"), but I'm too nervous for the front side since the gaps are much more. I hope that the DIY experts will chime in and help me out with this.

Any help, ideas, or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Phong
 

Entacmaea

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Hi Phong, it is always hard to describe these things, so to make sure I understand you, basically the bottom of the tank is not flush with the stand top? Also assuming this is a glass 180 with, as you mentioned, a plastic frame?

Some details about the stand construction would help, for instance, is the tank sitting on the frame of the stand, or have you put a plywood peice on top of the stand, upon which the tank then sits? If not, a peice of plywood, at least 1/2 inch think, preferably 3/4 inch, accross the entire top of the stand (about 6'x2'?) then a foam pad of some sort, would perhaps aid in leveling. This is more effective in acrylic tanks to support the entire bottom, but would still help. I really don't know to what degree this will correct the mislevel, however...

Also, you mentioned the tank is resting on 2x4's? Are these used as the horizontal members of the long side of the stand? Have you doubled them up? How many vertical supports have you used? I would probably have used 2x6 horizontal members, they will bow less, etc.

A picture of the stand would be great if you have one...
 

PDang

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Entacmaea,

You're correct that the tank's bottom is not flush with the stand top and the tank is glass. As for the picture, I don't have a digital camera so posting a picture is not an option.

The 2x4 are used as the horizontal members of the long side of the the stand. There are four vertical 2x4 supports on each side and each vertical is doubled up (2 2x4 screwed/nailed together). On the short side, I used a short 2x4 piece (the 4" side is vertical and the 2" side is horizontal) that rest on the 2x4 vertical support. This is where I think the gaps come from. On the right side is flush, but the left side is not and I think that because the left side end is sitting on top of the short 2x4 piece that is not even with the 2x4 long piece.

What I plan to do this weekend is to use sand paper to see if I can do some shaving on the short piece on the left hand side and get everything even out. Do you know if there is any tool that can shave wood like an ice shaving machine that can shave a thin layer each time it run over?

If sanding does not work, then I just have to figure out other ways...

Thanks,
Phong
 

SPC

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Posted by PDang:
What I plan to do this weekend is to use sand paper to see if I can do some shaving on the short piece on the left hand side and get everything even out. Do you know if there is any tool that can shave wood like an ice shaving machine that can shave a thin layer each time it run over?

You can use a hand plane but it takes practice with either this or a sander.
If it were mine I would shim it.
Steve
 

PDang

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Steve,

Shimimg was the first option that I thought about, but I don't know how it's done. Do you shim it all the way for all the gaps or you just shim at every 3,4, or 5" apart? What is a hand plane? Is it used for shaving wood?

Thanks,
Phong
 

Entacmaea

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Steve is right that a hand plane will work, but they are tempermental if you are not used to them and they are not very sharp. You can also rent a hand power planer. However, since your horizontal supports are already, in my opinion, thin for the weight they will support, I would be cautious about thinning them even more so. The double vertical supports should be fine, especially with four on the long side, but the inexactitude of the top surface plane is probably because the 2x4, over that 6 foot distance, is relatively easy to get to bend. I know it would be a pain, but if it is possible to remove the horizontal 2x4's and replace them with a 2x6, you will have a stronger stand and can try to re-level it at the same time...

I know shimming works for some people, but for that large a tank, I wouldn't.
 

dizzy

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PDang,

If your stand is fundamentally sound then there is a way you can safely use it, and this is not to say replacing the boards with 2x6 is bad. I would set the stand in place and makes sure it is as level as possible and doesn't rock. Put the tank on the stand and level it with the shims Steve mentioned. Next get some expoxy stick and mix it properly in small amounts. Push the epoxy under any cracks that you see in the front back and sides. Try to push it all the way to the back of the plastic trim. If you do this all the way around the tank will be supported everywhere when the epoxy hardens and not just sitting on the shims.

I wouldn't fill the tank up until the epoxy had a chance to harden. Hope this helps you.
 

SPC

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Posted by PD:
Shimimg was the first option that I thought about, but I don't know how it's done. Do you shim it all the way for all the gaps or you just shim at every 3,4, or 5" apart?

-The best way to do it would be to rip the shims. Example if your stand goes from 5/16" to 0 in two feet then that is what you would rip. The shim would end up being 2 feet long, 5/16" on one end and 0 at the other end. You can rip these shims with a circular saw.
Now, you could also cut a pc of 3/4" plywood to fit the top as Entacmaea mentioned, and then shim the plywood the same way.
Steve
 

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