I don't get the cycling???
- Thread starter Enzo B.
- Start date
If you purchased your LR from your LFS and it's fully cured there is no reason to expect a real cycle. The cycle usually kicks in when die-off from the LR (there's usually a fair amount when purchasing MO) starts to decay causing an ammonia spike and so forth.
As suggested I would first throw in a frozen table shrimp and then watch parameters for the spike you will definetly get. If your LR was in a tank at the LFS with fish for a good amount of time then I would say you are good to add livestock (like a small clean-up crew)- Slowly! Where did you buy your LR BTW?
Nice to see some Canadians on here! :wink:
As suggested I would first throw in a frozen table shrimp and then watch parameters for the spike you will definetly get. If your LR was in a tank at the LFS with fish for a good amount of time then I would say you are good to add livestock (like a small clean-up crew)- Slowly! Where did you buy your LR BTW?
Nice to see some Canadians on here! :wink:
Enzo: Expos is correct, in my opinion. A fifteen minute ride to the next tank, in terms of real stress, is minimal. While the l/r was actually "shipped" by normal means (wet/damp isn't the same as actually "under water", that implies it's submerged), it wasn't subjected to such severe conditions that you're losing any flora or fauna. Do you see "dead things"? If not, then you have apparently done the shipping well enough that you haven't lost anything.
(So, however you did it, you did it right.)
The "brown algae" is a diatom bloom, and it is normal for a newly cycling system, but it is by no means an absolute. The results you're experiencing are actually what folks moving a short distance can expect with careful planning.
This is why bradsark's situation is presenting itself differently from yours, as well. bradsark, don't add a clean-up crew just yet. Let the tank's param's do their thing, the diatomaceous bloom is a normal byproduct of excess nutrients. Shortening photoperiod is one way to "help" the situation, but if it were my tank (with nothing but l/r & substrate), I would not bother lighting it at all. I would also let the diatoms consume what they will, and not worry about anything until the water param's show the ammonia oxidation cycle has been completed. I can't remember if you've mentioned having a foam fractionator, if not, I'd strongly recommend using one (but I haven't got a brand suggestion). I also will suggest avoiding carbon.
Yes, the cooler the water, the more extended the cycle can be, but that is going to also be affected by other factors. For instance, what if the temp is so cool it actually causes a die-off? Then you may have a longer cycling period due to the time taken for the die-off to "complete" (accounting for those animals not stressed by the temps, but instead by the conditions achieved with die-off). Does that make sense? (Sometimes I wonder if I've stated myself well . . .
)
Also, Mogo, a normal cycle is often (I think it's usually the case) going to take just over a month. Six weeks is an average, so it seems to me that it went as could be expected.
(So, however you did it, you did it right.)
The "brown algae" is a diatom bloom, and it is normal for a newly cycling system, but it is by no means an absolute. The results you're experiencing are actually what folks moving a short distance can expect with careful planning.
This is why bradsark's situation is presenting itself differently from yours, as well. bradsark, don't add a clean-up crew just yet. Let the tank's param's do their thing, the diatomaceous bloom is a normal byproduct of excess nutrients. Shortening photoperiod is one way to "help" the situation, but if it were my tank (with nothing but l/r & substrate), I would not bother lighting it at all. I would also let the diatoms consume what they will, and not worry about anything until the water param's show the ammonia oxidation cycle has been completed. I can't remember if you've mentioned having a foam fractionator, if not, I'd strongly recommend using one (but I haven't got a brand suggestion). I also will suggest avoiding carbon.
Yes, the cooler the water, the more extended the cycle can be, but that is going to also be affected by other factors. For instance, what if the temp is so cool it actually causes a die-off? Then you may have a longer cycling period due to the time taken for the die-off to "complete" (accounting for those animals not stressed by the temps, but instead by the conditions achieved with die-off). Does that make sense? (Sometimes I wonder if I've stated myself well . . .
)Also, Mogo, a normal cycle is often (I think it's usually the case) going to take just over a month. Six weeks is an average, so it seems to me that it went as could be expected.
Truthfully, I'm a huge proponent of using q/t. In this instance I feel your tank should go one fully month before adding anything else.
Then, when you do purchase your first specimens, q/t them in a separate sys for one full month again. If you wish to do both q/t's at the same time, there's no reason why you shouldn't, as long as you've got the new additions in a separate system. From now on, any new purchases (even l/r from the same shop & sys) should be religiously q/t'd, for one full month. This will save you HUGE headaches in the future.
And, remember, you do not have to use a glass or acrylic aquarium to do the q/t. Depending on the size of the specimen you can use anything from rubbermaid tubs to those big trash cans. Filtration should always include a properly operating protein skimmer. I'd also suggest having separate invert and vert q/t's (keep them kosher!), along with having already on hand a few "basics"--Cupramine medication, broad spectrum antibiotics (such as Melafix), methylene blue, and maybe some malachite green (for f/w dips and/or fungal infections).
Then, when you do purchase your first specimens, q/t them in a separate sys for one full month again. If you wish to do both q/t's at the same time, there's no reason why you shouldn't, as long as you've got the new additions in a separate system. From now on, any new purchases (even l/r from the same shop & sys) should be religiously q/t'd, for one full month. This will save you HUGE headaches in the future.
And, remember, you do not have to use a glass or acrylic aquarium to do the q/t. Depending on the size of the specimen you can use anything from rubbermaid tubs to those big trash cans. Filtration should always include a properly operating protein skimmer. I'd also suggest having separate invert and vert q/t's (keep them kosher!), along with having already on hand a few "basics"--Cupramine medication, broad spectrum antibiotics (such as Melafix), methylene blue, and maybe some malachite green (for f/w dips and/or fungal infections).
Enzo
I think QT's are generally recommended for a month because that is the estimated life cycle of ich. Any "hidden" disease should manifest itself within the month, avoiding having to treat the main tank should disease then manifest itself and spread to your other fish. Most believe that copper or hyposalinity are the only 2 proper methods to treat ich. Both of which are very bad things for an aquarium full of corals and inverts. If your fish shows signs of sickness he can be treated in the QT and will not affect your other fish.
I have heard that Aqua Tropicale has a MAJOR infestation of flatworms. These are NOT desirable for your reef. I'm not sure if this includes their LR holding systems , probably not, just something to consider. I would personally wait a little longer for your first clown. Probably not what you want to hear, but about a month sounds right. If you do have flatworms it will be much easier to treat with no fish in your system. The only livestock I would try right now is a small clean-up crew. Feel free to PM me if you'd like to chat on the phone. You can never meet enough local reefers. I am by no means an expert but can maybe help you avoid some of the mistakes I 've made... What part of Montreal do you live in? I'm from Pierrefonds.
Just try to remember only bad things happen fast in reef tanks!
PS -32 celcius = -32 Farenheit = No chillers required :wink:
I think QT's are generally recommended for a month because that is the estimated life cycle of ich. Any "hidden" disease should manifest itself within the month, avoiding having to treat the main tank should disease then manifest itself and spread to your other fish. Most believe that copper or hyposalinity are the only 2 proper methods to treat ich. Both of which are very bad things for an aquarium full of corals and inverts. If your fish shows signs of sickness he can be treated in the QT and will not affect your other fish.
I have heard that Aqua Tropicale has a MAJOR infestation of flatworms. These are NOT desirable for your reef. I'm not sure if this includes their LR holding systems , probably not, just something to consider. I would personally wait a little longer for your first clown. Probably not what you want to hear, but about a month sounds right. If you do have flatworms it will be much easier to treat with no fish in your system. The only livestock I would try right now is a small clean-up crew. Feel free to PM me if you'd like to chat on the phone. You can never meet enough local reefers. I am by no means an expert but can maybe help you avoid some of the mistakes I 've made... What part of Montreal do you live in? I'm from Pierrefonds.
Just try to remember only bad things happen fast in reef tanks!
PS -32 celcius = -32 Farenheit = No chillers required :wink:
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