First Test fire of my light system 4-400w 14k Hamiltons

[Anonymous]

Just curious, but how are you going to break the siphon in the event that the power goes out?

 

[steve F]

Nathan---Well they seem a very crisp blue. As for the intensity, Ill have to get back to you after I fill the tank. They are extremly bright and look to have very good intensity, but hard to tell without water in the tank.


I got them at

http://www.hamiltontechnology.com/shop/ ... 74391fadfd


Mac--my loops like jeff hoods(the pic i posted) are Closed loops. If the power going out the water just stops. The water goes out though the pump and right back in. The water has no where to go if the pump stops.

Steve
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[Anonymous]

I was also wondering if you have to suppliment with actinic blue lights when you use 14K or 20K bulbs.

 

[Mikef1]

I have 3 175 10k hamiltons 2 400 20k radiums and 4 96 watt pcs. I bought the 20ks for the blue look but they werent as blue as I expected but they still look great.

 

[steve F]

Mac--I hope to not have to supplement the 14K as all. I do have a Icecap 660 if I need it, but I will start without it.

Im think the way it looked when I test fired them, I will not need anything else. Except for dawn/dusk lighting.

Steve
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[LA-Lawman]

i agree with ya steve... keep it simple. if needed u can always use one of those 400's as a 20k. that would probably help..... I dont think u will get any yellow out of those 14ks

I have 2 -175w 14ks and i still run my actinics.. i turn them off and only notice a small intensity loss

hth

 

[RGibson]

Greg-You are not a fan of closed loops and i am not one for power heads. And not ever one has two 1 1/2 drains in there overflow box,what would be the best way to get better water flow. It is one thing to say that the bulkheads should not be there and i think you are right but it would help if you say what you would have done for the many tanks that do not have two 1 1/2 drains. RGibson

 

[GSchiemer]

Greg-You are not a fan of closed loops and i am not one for power heads. And not ever one has two 1 1/2 drains in there overflow box,what would be the best way to get better water flow. It is one thing to say that the bulkheads should not be there and i think you are right but it would help if you say what you would have done for the many tanks that do not have two 1 1/2 drains. RGibson

I'm not against closed loops for circulation, I'm just saying there are better ways to do it, especially when you still have the opportunity to make modifications. For example, all those holes along the bottom could have been holes along the top fitted with screened overflows that drain into a sump. That's what I did in two of my smaller reef aquariums in order to avoid powerheads

Unfortunately tank manufacturers haven't caught on about reef aquariums and water flow, so they continue to make undersized overflow boxes and fittings. If your tank is new, it's easy to add additional or enlarged drain holes to handle flow to a sump. If your tank is in place, then you have to resort to closed loops and powerheads. I'm not a fan of powerheads either, but they've worked well for me for many years in some of my smaller aquariums.

Greg

 

[Anonymous]

Steve, don't worry about it. If you take your time and install the bulkhead fittings correctly, and it looks like you are, then it's safe to presume that they will last for 20 years or more.

 

[King Jason]

Just always keep a procedure in the back of your head for what your going to do if one of your pipes or bulkheads starts to leak. Contingency plans are always a good idea.

Once you get everything in place I would Silicon the bulkheads just for extra protection. I did this to all of mine and can sleep much better at night.

 

[GSchiemer]

Steve, don't worry about it. If you take your time and install the bulkhead fittings correctly, and it looks like you are, then it's safe to presume that they will last for 20 years or more.

And this number is based upon what? It's great that you want Steve to feel good about his project, but it's more important that he gets sound advice and opinions based upon experience and facts. For argument sake, let's say the bulkhead gaskets are rated to last for "20 years or more" while under pressure and soaking in seawater (doubtful), what about the ball valves, unions, pump head and all the associated moving parts and gaskets in these fittings? Are they going to last 20 years as well? The plumbing in a closed-loop is only as good as it's weakest link!

Even the best ball valves and unions become those weakest links within 3 to 5 years. The gaskets weaken and become permanently depressed and don't always seal again when disturbed. The ball valves become increasingly harder to turn until they no longer completely seal. This is not my opinion or something that might happen, it's a fact of life for plumbing fittings used in a relatively harsh environment. Yes, seawater loaded with particulate matter and precipitated minerals constitutes a harsh environment. Have you ever looked inside a PVC pipe or ball valve after a few years in service on a reef aquarium. Let me tell you, it's a pretty scary sight!

Greg

 

[steve F]

Hi Again everyone,

Yes That is why I got True Union Sch 80 ball Valves.

True if the bulk head or first valve leaked or began not to work, then it would be harder.

If the valve need to be replaced, I will take out the 3--1 1.2" THREADED strainers and put plugs in then change the valve and start it up. That one is easy.

If the pump starts to leak thats even easier.

Now if the Bulkhead starts to leak then that one would take 2 people and a very quick switch from one to the other. I would have the other bulkhead ready with a new valve. Take the old plumbing off except the bulkhead and valve. Put alot of pressure on the bulkhead, cut the Flex PVC. The take out the bulk head and put in a new one. Yes I will lose about 4-5 gallons of water, but its not a big deal if the worst case comes up. Plus since its in my basement with drains 5 gallons of water is no biggy.

I would say that the likely hood of a leak big enough to drain my tank with in 8 hours would be rare if at all. Yes salt water is corrosive, but if you glue the flex PVC and PVC the right way, I just dont see how the plumbing will leak.

Ive had to replave my valve on my pool and its the same thing, yes its near the top but there was still 2000g above the port. I lost about 10g doing that.

I like to get advise from everyone, thats why I am I the board, but ive thought about all the senerios before even buying the tank.

Steve
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[Anonymous]

SteveF said:

Just make sure you have an inlet to get first air coming into your home.

hmmm....so, with the exhaust fan sucking air out of the room, an equal volume of air needs to be added back into the house??? Not sure about how to do this, especially during the summer months when that last thing I would want to do is add hot, outside air, into my house. That defeats the purpose of AC! Any ideas?

Louey

your AC should squeeze the water out of the air on hot days, on mild days you may need an exhaust.

are you having problems now?

 

[Anonymous]

Podman said:

your AC should squeeze the water out of the air on hot days, on mild days you may need an exhaust.

are you having problems now?

No I'm not having problems now. The tank is in the design stage. The fishroom is warmer that the rest of the house due to southern exposure. I'll get the window tinted and maybe plant a hedge outside to block the sun.

Louey