I have two hammer corals that died just one day after purchasing. They both appeared fine and healthy in the store. Took them home and took my time acclimating them. Within hours of placing them in main tank, they started to get stringy and stream. My water test are great..I have other corals doing fine. My lighting is dual 175w 12k MH's. I placed both corals at the bottom of the tank.
Hammer coral help
- Thread starter mountainbiker619
- Start date
I've never heard of Euphyllia-specific pathogens, but it's possible. It could also be water conditions don't suit hammer corals (wouldn't have a clue what though) or simply a strange coincedence.
Only other corals I have in the tank are two Torches (which are not close to the placement of the hammers), some Mushroom Anemone's (which are not close to the placement of the hammers) and a Plate Anemone Long Tentacle (which is not close to the placement of the hammers).
I drip kalk everynight for about 7 hours. Other additives I add everynight are Marc Weiss Coral-Vital, Reef Vital DNA and Combo Vital. The water temp ranges from 80-82, which I do not think is high enough to kill the hammers so quickly. Everything in the tank appears healthy and great. All Anemone's are wide open and smiling. Torches are full and plump. I have a few fish also, but all are reef safe. But just incase, fish are as follows, 6-lined wrasse, Scott's fairy wrasse, Maroon clown, Gold Watchman, Black-cap slender wrasse and a Halichoeres iridis wrasse. I also made sure not to place the hammers is a high current area.
I drip kalk everynight for about 7 hours. Other additives I add everynight are Marc Weiss Coral-Vital, Reef Vital DNA and Combo Vital. The water temp ranges from 80-82, which I do not think is high enough to kill the hammers so quickly. Everything in the tank appears healthy and great. All Anemone's are wide open and smiling. Torches are full and plump. I have a few fish also, but all are reef safe. But just incase, fish are as follows, 6-lined wrasse, Scott's fairy wrasse, Maroon clown, Gold Watchman, Black-cap slender wrasse and a Halichoeres iridis wrasse. I also made sure not to place the hammers is a high current area.
Hmmm. I'm thinking it may be the additives. I have my ancora under high light, directly under a 175 10,000k high in tank, but your placement lower doesn't account for immediate die off. My temp is 82-83 so your temp is not the problem (unless the LFS water was much cooler!?). Mine are under variable flow, light to moderate. I add strontium and iodine only. My ancora struggled a bit when intro'd but fine after a couple weeks. The fact that you bought 2 corals at different stores leads me to believe that the problem is in your water. Hmmm. I'm thinking that it could be the additives.
Mogo
I started using these additivies because my LFS uses them in their reef display tanks, in which they also have a few hammers in it. I acclimated both for no less than two hours. Had to empty the bag twice due to full of water. So I have to think the corals had ample time to adjust to any water temp diff.
Nelson,
Can you please amplify on "small organic materia".
Maybe I will stop usage of all additives for a few weeks, then purchase a smaller hammer frag and see how it does.
I started using these additivies because my LFS uses them in their reef display tanks, in which they also have a few hammers in it. I acclimated both for no less than two hours. Had to empty the bag twice due to full of water. So I have to think the corals had ample time to adjust to any water temp diff.
Nelson,
Can you please amplify on "small organic materia".
Maybe I will stop usage of all additives for a few weeks, then purchase a smaller hammer frag and see how it does.
mountainbiker619":2q80ppsj said:
I use a little powerfilter for this - I usually run it for 2-3 days and then pull it before it starts collecting any detritus.
You could also just throw a micron bag full of carbon in the sump which might not collect detritus as quickly. I don't use that method so maybe someone else could suggest a time frame for that.
HTH
Go with PolyFilter instead of carbon. I works better and will change color to let you what it is absorbing.
I have had hard times with hammers. I bought a branching hammer 2 years ago, and it is very happy. However, the regular hammers have not lasted long in my tank. That being said, your hammers dying so quick is alarming! 8O
You may want to skipping trying to keep hammers, period. Sometimes, a tank cannot support specific spieces for one reason or another. My tank will not support Xenia, but will support SPS, LPS, soft corals of all other sorts. Go figure!
I have had hard times with hammers. I bought a branching hammer 2 years ago, and it is very happy. However, the regular hammers have not lasted long in my tank. That being said, your hammers dying so quick is alarming! 8O
You may want to skipping trying to keep hammers, period. Sometimes, a tank cannot support specific spieces for one reason or another. My tank will not support Xenia, but will support SPS, LPS, soft corals of all other sorts. Go figure!
mountainbiker619":2gkux4ek said:
Umm..please forgive me for asking, but are you positive that they've outright died? Many corals will do this when stressed, yes, but I've never seen one lose flesh in a day.
Also, you mentioned anemones, I don't know that they could have gotten to them in a day, but I just got another question from someone who already had established pops. of Euphyllia, and upon adding anemone (sebea, IIRC) they began dying off. However, this has been over the course of a month, two out of four species, and they're not dead, they're simply clearly stressed. It is possible for his corals to pull through, and something caught my eye about this post and it occurred to me that maybe to you they look like they just up and died, when in fact they are instead very stressed and need some TLC to pull through.
(whew! was that a run-on sentence or WHAT?)
Of course, I could be waaayyy off base here, too. <shrug>
mountainbiker/seamaiden
When I first intro'd my acropora, it went into hiding for a bit. The fleshy parts never disappeared totally. They just never extended fully for about 2 weeks. For yours to up and quit after a few hours has got me baffled.
If all your water quality parameters are in line then it must be the additives IMO. Don't throw them out yet. Eliminate the additives (IMO) and give it time. Hopefully they will come back.
When I first intro'd my acropora, it went into hiding for a bit. The fleshy parts never disappeared totally. They just never extended fully for about 2 weeks. For yours to up and quit after a few hours has got me baffled.
If all your water quality parameters are in line then it must be the additives IMO. Don't throw them out yet. Eliminate the additives (IMO) and give it time. Hopefully they will come back.
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