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Big Fishy

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What i did in my 10 gal nano for my outrageous hair algae problem was, added Turbo snails and a macro algae to compete for resources with the hair algae. Also took out rock and picked as much hair algae as possible by hand. I know that a 10 gal is smaller than your tank but in 11 days I would say that 75% of the hair algae is gone.
 
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Anonymous

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Been there and done that. It comes right back in a few days.

I was running phosban as well but then my frogspawn would not open until I took out the phosban.

I have just had it with these problems with the algae, CA/ALK etc etc etc and I am really considering starting everything over.

If I am going to have these problems again even If I redo the tank then I will take a sledge hammer to it and call it a day.
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Anonymous

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Can phosphate be stored in the LR and sand? Trying to find the real source of the PO4?

I have been doing WC's with phosphate free water and the only other thing I add to the tank is a 1/2 cube of frozen mysis once ever 3 days.

The hair algae is still growing and spreading like mad.
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Anonymous

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Hmm,

I am now wondering if its not worth battling this tank anymore. If I remove the DSB I wil lstill have these problems if the LR is bad.

Why did this happen to me?
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Anonymous

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I am still not convinced it is al the DSB. The HA has gotten allot worse in the last few weeks. I allot out last week and this week the glass and LR is covered again.

I went and got a Brand New Salifert Phosphate kit and that reads 0 as well (waste of money). I understand the PO4 can be used up by the HA before it can be measured but if the HA is growing that fast it HAS to be there.

My thoughts are that maybe the DBS has something to do with it but the LR has to be no good anymore since every inch is covered even after a total scrubbing.

I messed with flows in the tank and either I dont understand what th flow should be or the tank needs 20 powerheads.

I really do not want to start over since we have become attached to the fish and some of the corals and dont want to give them away.

This may resort to getting new LR and startign the whole tank over but that means getting rid of the current fish and corals.

HELP Please?
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Anonymous

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I suspect that something is getting into your tank through either makeup water or water changes.

Do you have a TDS meter?

Have you tested the RO water for phosphates?silicates?

Pomona is where? Rockland county?

Many of the NYC metro area's water suppliers have very high silicate readings. A DI or a HI-S RO filter may help. Even if you add a tap water purifier it may help. Some have really high phosphates especially the further north you go.
 
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Anonymous

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If your DSB is dead then remove it. Like stated just put a thin layer of LS to coat the bottom. Plus I would get one of those Tunze streams. Of course you might have to go bare bottom with one of those.
 
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Anonymous

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I have a TDS meter that reads 0.

I have a RO/DI/DI system for the top off/ water change water.

Do you think the LR is dead as well? The LR is covered in the algae.

Wouldn't a tunze stream be too much for a 3 ft tank?

Would it pin the fish against the glass on the opposite side if the tank?
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Anonymous

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The tunze is a high flow low velocity pump. It will really move things and you may need to go barebottom. The fish should be all right with the flow especially if you get the one with the wavemaker/controller(it speeds up and slows down). You could also get rid of those other pumps in the tank.

I do not think the LR is dead but it is lacking in coralline algae which inhibits bad alge from growing on it. The bacteria and even worms are probably fine. If the DSB is dead then it should be removed or stocked. But restocking will take time to correct. Removing it would yield quicker results. Dripping kalkwasser may also help.

For more info on the tunze start a thread about them. You know...Would a Tunze Stream be too much for a 3FT tank?
 
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Anonymous

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I do not have a stream yet. But then again I have a 6ft tank so it wouldn't matter. I'm also gonna wait to see that new wavemaker from tunze before I get anything else.
 

Modo

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Rob,
I think you came to your senses. I would not tear your tank down without first trying to find the source of the problem. It may be something that happens again once you start over.

You stated you make your own RO/DI water. Try testing that water for PO4 and Silicates. I know your TDS measures 0 but it's worth a shot. Then test your fresh saltwater as well. Something may have happened to your salt mix and it may be introducing some bad stuff.

I guess I'm old school and bucked the trend of the DSB panic and still believe in the utilization of one. So, if you still have one make sure it's healthy with worms, bugs, etcs... If not purchase some detrivore kits from different web dealers.

You might tweak your skimmer and make sure it's still functioning properly and pulling stuff out.

Your LR is fine. You need to find the source of what the algae is living off of. In all honosty, something may have happened at some point and you are going through another cycle.

When I had this problem a while back I purchased a Red-Lipped Blenny. These guys are very similiar to Lawn Mower Blennies and will mow hair algae down. It is definately an option. I've never had one, but urchins are reported to do a good job as well.

Check your flow too. It may be all around the upper water level and not circulation well around the rocks. Just a thought. /shrug

Don't give up man. I think starting over will be a bigger pain than trying to battle the algae IMO!
 

DaisyPolyp

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I agree with Modo, DSB is fine (I even prefer them). I would advocate aragonite substrate over southdown, but that is for another thread. Do some detective work for the phosphates, sometimes these things can show up from the most unusual places, like laundry detergent or clothes that have been washed in laundry detergent coming in contact with your water.
 

monkeyboy

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Your substrate that is 'lifeless' has probably build up a fair amount of organics by now, fueling the cyano and other baddies. A cheap and relatively easy thing to try for now would be to remove the established DSB and replace it with a new one (not necessarily of the same depth, do some research, I'm w/out a preference at the moment!).

Removing the rock to seperate vessles for algae removal/starvation is also a good idea, along with adding herbivores to help the process along. If you remove most of the algae, along with removing the potential organic cesspool that your sandbed may have become, you just might not get the stuff back. Good luck!
 
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Anonymous

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I have tried snails and crabs but all I end up with in a few months is a pile of shells in the corners of the tank.

I tried leaving the tank alone with no luck.

I tried scrubbing with no luck.

I have no idea on what the source is but what ever it is, it has really poluted the tank bad now and I thinkg the LR is now garbage or needs to be placed in dark for 3 months and recycled which I dont have time or space for.
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sawyerc

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Ah yes - the hair algae battle. I know it well... :(
As I understand it, algae use not only nitrates and phosphates, but ammonia directly, so once it starts growing, there's not much that can compete.
A few suggestions that may be helpful here: Drastically reduce your light intensity/duration and see if the tank is in direct sunlight. Also, change your bulbs if they're old. Running a few polyfilters may help but may also make your corals quite unhappy. The polyfilter color change may give you an indication of your problem. If there is any source of iron in your tank, this could contribute to your hair algae problem and this will show up in a polyfilter as a red stain (red, I think...?). I once won a hair algae battle by scrubbing all of the rocks completely and then introducing Garf Grunge and snails/crabs from Garf (www.garf.org). I then ran only actinics for a month or so until the algae was gone.

I feel your pain and wish you the best of luck.

Sawyer
 

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