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redsea64

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I had a recent outbreak of red slime algae in a reef setup. I mean a enormous outbreak. I use distilled water as top-off and have a efficient skimmer, good water flow and filtration is achieved with carbon, skimming and live rock and live sand. I do not use refugium. I do have about 50 turbos and 35 zebra hermit crabs. I have power compacts actinic and daylight combined. I no this is not very detailed however I will start were I think the problem may be. This is my list of what could be wrong please let me know from your experience how likely these are??? ---

1. carbon was exhausted while out of town and it leached phosphates back into the tank
2. no phosphate removing resin such as phosguard etc.
3. Photoperiod is too long > 14 hours
4. Overfeeding of formula 1 flake food by my caretaker while i was out of town (I later heard someone mention that flake foods are a major phosphate contributor true or not)

By the way the red slime algae is everywhere however my corals are expanding like never before 2 bubbles, 1 hammer, 1 brain, 1 elegance, 1 leather, 1 colony of xenia and mushrooms.

Will this work from your experience?????

Solution: So far I have done is four 10 % water changes (distlled) in a 7 day period --- phosguard added to two over the back filters --- increase in waterflow with a additional powerhead --- two hour reduction in photoperiod --- black paper around over the back filters to avoid direct sunlight --- new carbon and a cleaned skimmer -- absolutely have not fed the tank but once in 7 days -- lastly waiting for my phosphate test kit mailorder.

Is this enough or will I have to physically remove the algae ???? -- if not what happend when or if it dies how do you remove it or will the herbivores and scavengers do their job????
 

Jolieve

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Wow... you've really...

I'd say you've over reacted just a tad, but I don't really know the severity of your outbreak.

1. Do NOT reduce the photoperiod. Cyanobacteria (red slime algae) thrives in a low light environment. Keep the lights on their normal cycle.

2. Phosphates could contribute, but I'm betting the majority of your problem is stemming from the constant use of carbon. Run carbon on a much less frequent basis, and when you do run it, change it every 3-5 days. Carbon provides an excellent place for cyanobacteria to grow, you probably want to remove it from the tank entirely until the bloom has died off.

3. Yes, you will need to manually remove the cyano. Siphon out as much of the material as you can during your water changes. If you need to clear your corals of the slime, use a turkey baster to suction the stuff off of them and away from them in between water changes.

4. I'd slow down on the number of water changes you're doing. Maybe one every week, instead of one every couple of days. This gives your bacteria population time to recover in between them.

There's my .02 cents.

Good luck!
J.
 

Kevin1000

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Suggest you wash your filter media (including carbon) daily until you get the cyano under control. I would also siphon out cyano daily.
 

Juck

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I don't think the carbon is the problem.

Have you tested the TDS of your RO/DI topoff water?

How deep is your DSB?,,, how long has the tank been setup

How big is the tank & what skimmer are you using?
 

DaisyPolyp

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I agree also that carbon should be removed or at least flushed frequently.

...oh and by the way:
 

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Jeff_S

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Jolieve
Why do you say " Do NOT reduce the photoperiod. Cyanobacteria (red slime algae) thrives in a low light environment. Keep the lights on their normal cycle."

The only place I have Cyno growth is in the tank itself. My sump which has no light does not grow any.

Jeff
 

Jolieve

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Low light, not "no light". It does photosynthesize, but it doesn't require much light to do it.

Reducing your photoperiod will just help it grow. It won't stop it. Leave your lights on their full cycle.

In fact, I'd check the last time you replaced your bulbs as well. If you have PC's, and you haven't replaced the bulbs in the past six months, it's time to replace them now.

PC tubes should be replaced about every six months to get their full potential. Just because the lights are on, doesn't mean that your corals are getting any use out of them. The color of light they get is important as well, and after about six months PC tubes tend to... "burn in" and the color of light they produce shifts to something that isn't as good as it was when they were new.

Sometimes, just replacing your bulbs can kill off a cyanobacteria bloom. But, this isn't something I would bother with if your bulbs were replaced recently.

Hope this has explained it a bit. I'll find you a few articles on cyanobacteria and post them here so you can learn more about it.

J.
 

Jolieve

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Here's a list of articles I've found on the net that have been useful to me in getting rid of cyanobacteria.

Fenner and Crew and their thoughts on the evil that is red slime:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm

Albert Thiel:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/r ... teria.html

RDO Library:
http://www.reefs.org/library/article/c_bingman2.html

These are all excellent articles that helped me get a handle on what to do about cyano when I had it. I haven't had any problems with cyano since last August. *knock on wood*

J.
 
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Anonymous

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Check your distilled water with a TDS meter. Rinse your carbon and any filter pads often. Remove by hand and syphon as often as possible. Make sure your DSB is well stocked. A conch snail and some turbos will help as well,
 

kd233

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High flow has helped me in the past with red slime. I do not think you need to change your PC bulbs every 6 months, that timeframe would apply to VHO bulbs. PC bulbs can be effective for longer
 
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Anonymous

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Even VHOs should last a year. High flow will help. But if you have nutrient isues there will be cyano even with high flow rates.
 

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