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packman9111

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I discovered this (assume) algae bloom when I returned from vacation last Sat. Since then I have made one 20% WC and three 50%. The goal of that was to purge tap water that was originally used to set up the tank. I has been going for about a six weeks now. It appeared to be improving but I'm sure that's only because the large WCs were diluting the water. Lights are now running 8hrs.

PH 8
nitrite 0
nitrate 0
amonia 0
phosphate .2
SG 1.023
cal 345
temp 81-82
Light is 130w Dual daylight 16,700k/10,000k // Dual Actinic 420nm/460nm by Current

I leave Monday on business for 2 weeks and tank will get minimum attention while I'm gone. Should I do another WC? If so, how much?

Tank is 26 BF, 45 lbs fiji LR, Remora PS.
Should I use some type of mechanical filteration?

Pics below.
 

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DaisyPolyp

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HOLY $#!T... well you can be sure your tests are reading zero because the algae has already bloomed. I would like to see the test numbers on the water going in to the tank.

...bad way to leave it for 2 weeks, but if you are only cycling and you have no livestock except your cleanup crew, then throw an airstone or 2 in there and shut off the lights... let it feed itself out.
 

Ben1

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After you do get it to die off I would do a 100% water change with the temp and Ph matching the tank water. Of course do this with RO/DI water. Thats a pretty nasty bloom.
 

packman9111

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There is one damsel - if he bites the dust ...

Air stone is in place and lights are set for 1hr/day. Should I eliminate all together?

I may have time to check my water from the RO. It's a brand new six stage RO/DI system, but I haven't tested it. Just test it before the SW mix??

I've never done a 100%. I have a QT tanks for the clean up crew - do I need to worry about the amount of time the LR is exposed to air??

Thanks for the advice.

Rick
 

PeeJ

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Is it wise to do a 100% water change? I was always under the impression that doing this was not such a great idea.
 

ems3411

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I had the exact thing happen to me after cycling my tank. The only advice I can offer is if it is near a window, drape a towel or blanket over the tank to keep the light out. Turn off the lights for a week, if it comes right back, try two weeks... I have very similar pictures of my 110.. ahh the days of old... now the water is crystal clear and needs another water change.. ugh the work never stops on these monsters.
 

Kevin1000

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Green water may not look good but won't hurt anything. You can slap on an inexpensive powerflter and run some carbon - should help clean it up.

If you are not using RO water you should consider using it. I would maintain regular water changes and ignore the 100% water change recommendation.

Hope this helps.
 
A

Anonymous

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Kevin1000":3mxrawrj said:
Green water may not look good but won't hurt anything. You can slap on an inexpensive powerflter and run some carbon - should help clean it up.

If you are not using RO water you should consider using it. I would maintain regular water changes and ignore the 100% water change recommendation.

Hope this helps.

I agree. If you eliminate the lights what will the snails eat?

Carbon and some poly filters will help. RO/DI for WC and topup is recommended. Keep changing water in the meantime, just not 100%.

I started my 55 with tapwater. What a mistake! It took me about 4months of water changes with DI water to clear it up.

Good luck
 

Ben1

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In your situation a 100% water change wouldnt hurt anything. It would give the tank a fresh start with out having to do any re-cycling. I would do a 100% change take the snails and damsel out and re acclimate once your done this. Then run carbon for the next few weeks. I wouldnt do 100 if this was a mature reef but considering it's a brand new set up it can't hurt.

I would get rid of the damsel while your at it, they can become very aggresive.
 

DaisyPolyp

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Kevin1000":36yydlkn said:
Green water may not look good but won't hurt anything.

A bloom of that size will severely deplete the disolved oxegen content of the water. Either increase aeration, or change signifigant amounts of water to save the other inhabitants.
 

Kevin1000

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DaisyPolyp":1q3c54tg said:
A bloom of that size will severely deplete the disolved oxegen content of the water. Either increase aeration, or change signifigant amounts of water to save the other inhabitants.

Are you seriously suggesting that a green algae bloom is going to cause one small damsel to die of oxygen depletion in a tank running a protein skimmer?
 

packman9111

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Thanks for all the advice. Even tho I was away, I did monitor the thread. Tank looks good now - I'll probably do somewhere between 20-50% WC tomorrow. BTW isn't normal WC something like 20% every couple of weeks. If all looks good, might start thinking about some corals - thinking about the beginer pack at http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod ... pCatId=714. Are there any corals I should steer clear with my lighting ?

Thanks again.
 
A

Anonymous

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With your lighting I would suggest softies like shrooms and star polyps about midway. You could put leathers near the top.
 

Kevin1000

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I would recommend you staying away from any corals until your tank matures. The std. algae outbreaks common in new tanks don't bother fish but can be real problem to corals.
 

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