Chemiclean warning!
- Thread starter reefNewbie
- Start date
Tony,
Cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates and flatworms all have toxins in their cells that is released into the aquarium when they lyse or decompose. If you had sufficient quantities of these and the Chemi-clean did kill them, it is possible that the toxins from the pests affected your corals - not the product itself. It is always suggested that you try to physically remove as much of these things as possible before using chemical treatment to kill the remaining pests.
Your corals appear to have bleached (expelled zooxanthellae). Are they still alive, but without symbiotic algae?
Cyanobacteria, dinoflagellates and flatworms all have toxins in their cells that is released into the aquarium when they lyse or decompose. If you had sufficient quantities of these and the Chemi-clean did kill them, it is possible that the toxins from the pests affected your corals - not the product itself. It is always suggested that you try to physically remove as much of these things as possible before using chemical treatment to kill the remaining pests.
Your corals appear to have bleached (expelled zooxanthellae). Are they still alive, but without symbiotic algae?
Snorkel in my tank":3hqozjzz said:
i have never used chemi clean, nor do i know exactly what it contains.i am not recommending one over the other
i am just relaying a method that was taught to me, that i've recommended to many other people over the years, that i've observed to work every single time it's been applied, w/never any adverse effects on any inverterbrate (it is imperative that the dosage and procedure be followed exactly, btw, and i make no claim for any other product other than the one i specifically mentioned in the original thread)
one thing i've found interesting about using emycin is that it actually seems to elicit a feeding response in many corals-though the response could also be something else
it is my own personal belief that some products that claim to contain emycin contain other materials that aren't listed on the label
my $0.02
I used it a month ago on my 150 and havent had any problems. I actually have a 150 with 20 sump and dosed half the bottle. I waited untill the next day and saw only a small reduction to the slime. I then added the rest of the bottle and by 48 hrs all the slime was gone.
I have a mixed softie/sps/lps tank and didn't see any problems with any corals. I haven't done a water change yet but need to soon as last night I noticed some brown jelly on one of my sps tips. I fragged it but now one of the other tips has the jelly also. I have a 30 gallon water change ready for when I get home from work tonight.
Your problem could have been a combination of no skimmer running and die off of the red slime leaving lots of nutrients back to the water.
FWIW I run a bullet 3 and because of the large foam chamber I didn't have to shut off the skimmer. Even when I do epoxy in the tank I leave it running and don't have overflow.
Sorry for your loss
I have a mixed softie/sps/lps tank and didn't see any problems with any corals. I haven't done a water change yet but need to soon as last night I noticed some brown jelly on one of my sps tips. I fragged it but now one of the other tips has the jelly also. I have a 30 gallon water change ready for when I get home from work tonight.
Your problem could have been a combination of no skimmer running and die off of the red slime leaving lots of nutrients back to the water.
FWIW I run a bullet 3 and because of the large foam chamber I didn't have to shut off the skimmer. Even when I do epoxy in the tank I leave it running and don't have overflow.
Sorry for your loss
WEll I started back up my skimmer today. alot of my lps still look very pissed off. I think im going to start making water today for a 20 gal water change tomorrow. That would be the second 20 gal water change since I started the treatment. Would this be adequate enough to get rid of the remaining chemiclean/toxins in my water? Should i possibley be running cabon as well?
Tony,
That picture is way out of focus. I can't tell if it's a reef or a pizza :lol:
Anyway, it looks like you have multiple pests growing on your rock. Can you take more shots that are sharply focused and not so large, please?
BTW, your S. dura looks healthy.
That picture is way out of focus. I can't tell if it's a reef or a pizza :lol:
Anyway, it looks like you have multiple pests growing on your rock. Can you take more shots that are sharply focused and not so large, please?
BTW, your S. dura looks healthy.
sorry bout that the camera i have is a piece of ****. For some reason it doesnt like to focus on things.
Thankyou!
I will get some more pics. What would be the best method of getting rid of dyno? I have tried the 48 hrs no light thing, and that really didnt do anything. My tank is not in direct sunlight, nitrate nitrite and ammonia and phosphate are all undetectible. And i dont feed at all because there is just 1 chromis in there. Well I feed very selectively just enough to keep him healthy.
Thankyou!
I will get some more pics. What would be the best method of getting rid of dyno? I have tried the 48 hrs no light thing, and that really didnt do anything. My tank is not in direct sunlight, nitrate nitrite and ammonia and phosphate are all undetectible. And i dont feed at all because there is just 1 chromis in there. Well I feed very selectively just enough to keep him healthy.
I had a Dyno bloom at the end of the cycle. (and just 1 chromis) I removed as much as I could with a toothbrush and a siphon during water change. Also had bought a couple of big turbo snails before that and they were grubbin it down, but not fast enough. I try and avoid any chemicals unless I'm desperate.
nope, Im in the process of deciding what to get to get rid of this algae. I have a yellow tang and a few blue leg hermits and ceriths and astrae snails. But this is all a few. If you look here http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47986
I was asking what i need. Thanks!
I was asking what i need. Thanks!
Sorry to hear of your incident, but I doubt that the ChemiClean was the dirrect cause of your coral bleaching. There were most likely a number of factors involved in the ordeal (water quality, temperature, water motion/disolved oxygen levels or a lack thereof). The label says to do a 25% water change after dosing. Unfortunately it does not tell you to suck out most of the Cyano before dosing, which is what I tell all my customers that I prescribe it to. Anytime algae/bacteria, or anything dies it uses up oxygen hence the increase in redox levels. If there is a lot of the slime algae in the tank the oxyen consumption can be astronimical. If you had a redox meter on your tank I'm sure the value would have greatly increased.
If used correctly it is a great product. I have used it twice in my 120 reef. The first time was for a massive kill off, but I only had liverock in the tank so I didn't bother to suck most of it out. The second time I used it was after the tank had been establised with many SPS corals (elkhorn montipora, M. capricornis, A. tortuosa, 2 species of tricolor acropora, A. millepora, Acropora sp. "blue tip", and Seriatopora sp.), a few gorgonians, some cool zoanthids, a couple of LPS corals, pulsing Xenia, shrooms, star polyps, etc. etc. I lost none of them, nor did any of them react to the presence of the ChemiClean. I did however, suck out as much of the "slime" as I could before dosing with it.
I wouldn't be so quick to knock the stuff.
As far as using erthromycin to kill off the "slime", I don't recomend doing it in a reef tank or any tank moderately to heavily populated. It is a strong antibiotic that has proven to be very harsh on nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria (i.e. the biological filter system). In short, it can REALLY mess up a reef system that relies on the nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria to function properly.
Unless you have the knowledge and are equiped to handle severe durress on the system and still come out of it on top. Don't use erthromycin to kill the "slime".
Just make sure you have sufficient water flow to keep up the dissolved oxygen levels and many potentialy "leathal" incedents can be avoided.
I always suggest a minimum of 15 times the aquarium's gallon capacity as a minimum total flow rate (all pumps in tank added together). I run about 6000 gph in my 120 (give or take depending on what powerheads the wavemaker has on or off).
Again, sorry for your loss.
If used correctly it is a great product. I have used it twice in my 120 reef. The first time was for a massive kill off, but I only had liverock in the tank so I didn't bother to suck most of it out. The second time I used it was after the tank had been establised with many SPS corals (elkhorn montipora, M. capricornis, A. tortuosa, 2 species of tricolor acropora, A. millepora, Acropora sp. "blue tip", and Seriatopora sp.), a few gorgonians, some cool zoanthids, a couple of LPS corals, pulsing Xenia, shrooms, star polyps, etc. etc. I lost none of them, nor did any of them react to the presence of the ChemiClean. I did however, suck out as much of the "slime" as I could before dosing with it.
I wouldn't be so quick to knock the stuff.
As far as using erthromycin to kill off the "slime", I don't recomend doing it in a reef tank or any tank moderately to heavily populated. It is a strong antibiotic that has proven to be very harsh on nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria (i.e. the biological filter system). In short, it can REALLY mess up a reef system that relies on the nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria to function properly.
Unless you have the knowledge and are equiped to handle severe durress on the system and still come out of it on top. Don't use erthromycin to kill the "slime".
Just make sure you have sufficient water flow to keep up the dissolved oxygen levels and many potentialy "leathal" incedents can be avoided.
I always suggest a minimum of 15 times the aquarium's gallon capacity as a minimum total flow rate (all pumps in tank added together). I run about 6000 gph in my 120 (give or take depending on what powerheads the wavemaker has on or off).
Again, sorry for your loss.
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
