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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Wow, I like that setup
there are glass shields on those lights so the air from the blower goes all the way through them? Cool!
Is that air then ducted outside? Ya know that is exactly the setup I needed when I was trying to light my 2 gallon with a 175 watt MH :lol:
And I wear shorts rattier than that every day of the year
there are glass shields on those lights so the air from the blower goes all the way through them? Cool!
Is that air then ducted outside? Ya know that is exactly the setup I needed when I was trying to light my 2 gallon with a 175 watt MH :lol:
And I wear shorts rattier than that every day of the year
A
Anonymous
Guest
Yup, the reflectors have glass lenses and the air gets ducted out of the house through a vent I installed in the wall.
Louey
Louey
Waz, I assume you are referring to the 130G container that I am using for water changes. I bought that at Plastic-Mart. It was $250 including shipping.
My make-up water storage/kalk mixing container is just a 32G Brute that I bought at HD. I don't recall posting any pictures of that, so I don't think that is what you are asking about.
Louey
My make-up water storage/kalk mixing container is just a 32G Brute that I bought at HD. I don't recall posting any pictures of that, so I don't think that is what you are asking about.
Louey
Much better, I can really see how large the tank is; nice shorts, I'm suprised your wife didn't tell you to throw them out. :wink: Well I have to say this is quite the project, and thanks again for allowing us to follow along.
I am wondering what is the pvc on the right side of the tank for?
I figured you would have all you plumbing outside the tank ( this is not a critism what so ever ) that is just my personal preference.
It is taking shape, and I wish you much succes. I can't wait to see it stocked.
I am wondering what is the pvc on the right side of the tank for?
I figured you would have all you plumbing outside the tank ( this is not a critism what so ever ) that is just my personal preference.
It is taking shape, and I wish you much succes. I can't wait to see it stocked.
I noticed your tank was purchased from GlassCages.com. I'm eyeing up a 180gal for a future tank, and they sell them for only $350. I know retail adds some overhead, but That Fish Place(.com) sells them for $560... that's 60% more! Is there any particular reason GlassCages can sell them for so cheap?!
That Fish Place is most convenient for me because it's only a 35min. drive and they *usually* beat most others in dry goods pricing.
That Fish Place is most convenient for me because it's only a 35min. drive and they *usually* beat most others in dry goods pricing.
Jandree wrote:
Glass cages does use cheap, thin plastic around the edges of the tank. This plastic is there simply to cover the silicone and to trim the tank out. The tank is held together with silicone. If you don't trust silicon then you might want to consider another manufacturer.
Oceanic sells a tank with a top and bottom brace that is made of powder coated steel. There price for a tank the same dimensions is $5700. I paid $1430 for mine including shipping. No way I was going to pay that much extra for the powder coated steel, although it is very nice.
Having had my tank set up and filled with water for a few weeks now, I am not at all concern about it's structural strength. Glasscages wouldn't manufacturer a tank if the engineering didn't support their design.
Louey
Glass cages does use cheap, thin plastic around the edges of the tank. This plastic is there simply to cover the silicone and to trim the tank out. The tank is held together with silicone. If you don't trust silicon then you might want to consider another manufacturer.
Oceanic sells a tank with a top and bottom brace that is made of powder coated steel. There price for a tank the same dimensions is $5700. I paid $1430 for mine including shipping. No way I was going to pay that much extra for the powder coated steel, although it is very nice.
Having had my tank set up and filled with water for a few weeks now, I am not at all concern about it's structural strength. Glasscages wouldn't manufacturer a tank if the engineering didn't support their design.
Louey
Louey":27jqhfvw said:
that's kinda how I feel about acrylic tanks... I'd love to be able to get a huge tank and move it with out the help of 3 or more buddies, but no way in hell I'm paying over twice as much for details like that.
FWIW, That Fish Place carries Perfecto Mfg. glass tanks
Louey:
Could make some comments about your leaks, relocation of equipment, plumbing, flow, pump, and tank issues, but I'll save them for now. Could have saved you the aggravation if you had asked before doing.
Let me address a couple of things for you. Some if not most have been touched by gschiemer though.
Electrical:
You found out the reason why I relocated my electrical outlets to as far away from water sources as possible. Glad you did the same. It will pay off over time as the equipment and connection won't get as much salt spray either. You will be amazed how much is there in your size tank.
Pump/plumbing:
These are a few pieces of avice I have gathered from doing this a few times:
*Always put a union right before and after each pump. It allows you to take the pump out very easily and not have any water problems. This is a must. You'll be surprised over the next year how many times you'll have to use them.
*NEVER NEVER NEVER restrict the output of a pump by turning down a valve on the intake It will kill you pump in no time and it will make the pump cavitate = noise/heat/bubbles/dead pump!!
*Always upsize the intake of any pump by at least 1/2" diameter. This is even more so with pressure rated pumps. Go up by an entire1" diamteter if the intake pipe is longer than 12" as you'd be amazed how much resistance that will cause = cavitation = noise/heat/bubbles/dead pump.
*ALWAYS use hard PVC for intakes to pumps if can help it. It may take a little longer to cut/measure right and to glue, but it will save you so many headaches in the long run.
*To maximize flow and minimize resistance, I always upsize the outflow of any pump by 1/2"-1" diameter and reduce it at the very end to suit your needs. This is even more so if you have more than a couple of elbows and more than 36" distance of pipe travel.
Flow/penductor:
I used a pair in my tank fromt he return of the sump with an iwaki 100. No question these things move some major water. I eventually took them offline for a couple of reasons. One is that the jet stream is extremely powerfull and will hurt fish and tear the tissue right off any coral as far back as 5 feet from it. I have a 10 feet long tank and you could feel the jetstream 7 feet away from it. The other reason was that even though they made great water movement, they restricted the volume of water I was turning over my sump.
With yours, I would take the 2 top ones in each side and put a 45 degree elbow pointing towards the bottom of the tank and connect them to them. The stream from the top ones will hit the stream from the bottom ones making some chaotic flow in the entire tank. I can guarantee you will not even need the tunzes after that. Also, keep them pointed all parallel to the tank and don't get the bright idea of pointing some of them in other direction across the tank and towards the middle.
Sump:
If you can, drill your sump towards the the very top and attach a pipe with a hose leading to a floor drain if you have one. When the sump overflows again water will leave via that drain/pipe instead of overflowing all over the floor. Also, using a filter sock right where your water comes fromt he overflows into the sump will allow you to reduce microbubbles significantly to almost none and also helps to trap ditritus. They are easily cleansed and reused too not to mention they are veyr cheap. I use the 25 micron ones and rotate among 6 of them.
Below is a link to a thread I made about my own set up in another site. Look through the pictures and use/copy anything that may help you. I did not invent any of these thingss. I just copied it all from other successful people.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/sho ... php?t=5253
Good luck!
PS: I did not reply sooner because today was the first time RDO notified me of an update to the threa
Could make some comments about your leaks, relocation of equipment, plumbing, flow, pump, and tank issues, but I'll save them for now. Could have saved you the aggravation if you had asked before doing.
Let me address a couple of things for you. Some if not most have been touched by gschiemer though.
Electrical:
You found out the reason why I relocated my electrical outlets to as far away from water sources as possible. Glad you did the same. It will pay off over time as the equipment and connection won't get as much salt spray either. You will be amazed how much is there in your size tank.
Pump/plumbing:
These are a few pieces of avice I have gathered from doing this a few times:
*Always put a union right before and after each pump. It allows you to take the pump out very easily and not have any water problems. This is a must. You'll be surprised over the next year how many times you'll have to use them.
*NEVER NEVER NEVER restrict the output of a pump by turning down a valve on the intake It will kill you pump in no time and it will make the pump cavitate = noise/heat/bubbles/dead pump!!
*Always upsize the intake of any pump by at least 1/2" diameter. This is even more so with pressure rated pumps. Go up by an entire1" diamteter if the intake pipe is longer than 12" as you'd be amazed how much resistance that will cause = cavitation = noise/heat/bubbles/dead pump.
*ALWAYS use hard PVC for intakes to pumps if can help it. It may take a little longer to cut/measure right and to glue, but it will save you so many headaches in the long run.
*To maximize flow and minimize resistance, I always upsize the outflow of any pump by 1/2"-1" diameter and reduce it at the very end to suit your needs. This is even more so if you have more than a couple of elbows and more than 36" distance of pipe travel.
Flow/penductor:
I used a pair in my tank fromt he return of the sump with an iwaki 100. No question these things move some major water. I eventually took them offline for a couple of reasons. One is that the jet stream is extremely powerfull and will hurt fish and tear the tissue right off any coral as far back as 5 feet from it. I have a 10 feet long tank and you could feel the jetstream 7 feet away from it. The other reason was that even though they made great water movement, they restricted the volume of water I was turning over my sump.
With yours, I would take the 2 top ones in each side and put a 45 degree elbow pointing towards the bottom of the tank and connect them to them. The stream from the top ones will hit the stream from the bottom ones making some chaotic flow in the entire tank. I can guarantee you will not even need the tunzes after that. Also, keep them pointed all parallel to the tank and don't get the bright idea of pointing some of them in other direction across the tank and towards the middle.
Sump:
If you can, drill your sump towards the the very top and attach a pipe with a hose leading to a floor drain if you have one. When the sump overflows again water will leave via that drain/pipe instead of overflowing all over the floor. Also, using a filter sock right where your water comes fromt he overflows into the sump will allow you to reduce microbubbles significantly to almost none and also helps to trap ditritus. They are easily cleansed and reused too not to mention they are veyr cheap. I use the 25 micron ones and rotate among 6 of them.
Below is a link to a thread I made about my own set up in another site. Look through the pictures and use/copy anything that may help you. I did not invent any of these thingss. I just copied it all from other successful people.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/sho ... php?t=5253
Good luck!
PS: I did not reply sooner because today was the first time RDO notified me of an update to the threa
dgasmd wrote:
I started a seperate thread regarding most of the important issues regarding this tank long before I started this thread. I don't recall you replying to any of them. I am sure most of your suggestions are wonderful, but you'll have to excuse me while I take most of it as monday morning quarterbacking. :wink:
As far as the penductors are concerned, having never used them before, I didn't glue any of the fittings below the waterline in place. That way I can easily move them while I experiment with how to get the best flow in the tank. I can also drill out the orifice to make them a little less powerful if need be.
During two weeks of freshwater testing I didn't notice any micro bubbles at all. The baffles seem to get them all. It'll be interesting to see if saltwater acts any differently.
I started a seperate thread regarding most of the important issues regarding this tank long before I started this thread. I don't recall you replying to any of them. I am sure most of your suggestions are wonderful, but you'll have to excuse me while I take most of it as monday morning quarterbacking. :wink:
As far as the penductors are concerned, having never used them before, I didn't glue any of the fittings below the waterline in place. That way I can easily move them while I experiment with how to get the best flow in the tank. I can also drill out the orifice to make them a little less powerful if need be.
During two weeks of freshwater testing I didn't notice any micro bubbles at all. The baffles seem to get them all. It'll be interesting to see if saltwater acts any differently.
Based on how you've taken constructive criticism in this thread, I doubt the other thread contributed much to change or do anything differently than what you know best anyway. It is you tank, so do as you like. :roll:
As for not contributing to your thread I'll ahve to be honest and tell you I hardly ever read RDO anymore. When you hit "see new threads", 95%+ are threads in the "sump" or the same bickering among the same 3-4 people in the "industry forum". 20 pages of new posts come up and only 10 posts/threads are not in those 2 forums above. So, it is very easy I missed it. :? It is a shame. This was my favorite site and the first I ever I registered in too. :x
As for not contributing to your thread I'll ahve to be honest and tell you I hardly ever read RDO anymore. When you hit "see new threads", 95%+ are threads in the "sump" or the same bickering among the same 3-4 people in the "industry forum". 20 pages of new posts come up and only 10 posts/threads are not in those 2 forums above. So, it is very easy I missed it. :? It is a shame. This was my favorite site and the first I ever I registered in too. :x
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