My 313gal FBX with a 9" square drain box is arriving shortly. The drain box has only 2, 1" drains to feed my 2" line to my fish room. Why is this you ask? Call it poor planning on my part, and I probably shouldn't have trusted the manufacturers rec. Anyway, salvage mode time and I get to go drilling into my beautiful new tank. My question: My drain box is centered in my tank as the tank is viewed all sides in our great room. There is no additional room in the drain box for additional drain capacity due to the dry raceway installed for lighting wiring. Is there any reason why I couldn't drill and install a 90 deg pvc elbow, say 1 1/2" or so, near the bottom of the drain box? This elbow or pvc line would exit through a bulkhead fitting in the side of the drain box say 6" or so from the floor of the tank and come out a few inches into the display, make a 90 deg turn, and then exit through a bulk head fitting in the floor of the tank. Is there any reason why this wouldn't be a simple solution to my problem of low capacity to my fishroom/sump/refug? Also, in case anyone is wondering, I'm planning a 2" closed loop system for primary water flow through the display....My concern above is getting enough water to my fishroom for filtration.
drain box expansion
- Thread starter parajack
- Start date
Hi parajack and :welcome:
I don't see why your idea wouldn't work, although if I'm following you, it would mean you'll have a bulkhead on the bottom of the dislplay tank that is outside the overflow box. This is something many would choose to avoid in the event that there's ever a problem with the bulkhead (ie. you'd have to drain the entire tank to replace it).
Any chance you can enlarge the existing 1" drains to say 1-1/2" to get the additional capacity?
Something else to consider... ...if your overflow box has teeth, you need to consider their capacity as well (ie. no sense in adding lots of plumbing capacity if the box can't handle it).
I'll move this to the main disussion forum and leave a copy here as well to see if we can get you some more feedback.
HTH
I don't see why your idea wouldn't work, although if I'm following you, it would mean you'll have a bulkhead on the bottom of the dislplay tank that is outside the overflow box. This is something many would choose to avoid in the event that there's ever a problem with the bulkhead (ie. you'd have to drain the entire tank to replace it).
Any chance you can enlarge the existing 1" drains to say 1-1/2" to get the additional capacity?
Something else to consider... ...if your overflow box has teeth, you need to consider their capacity as well (ie. no sense in adding lots of plumbing capacity if the box can't handle it).
I'll move this to the main disussion forum and leave a copy here as well to see if we can get you some more feedback.
HTH
Thank you!!
I've just unwrapped the tank and have it in our shop area. Wow what a beautiful thing and a long time coming. I'll see if I can get a digital pic posted (never done that before to the forum) and then we can go from there. I'm already commited to one or two sets of 2" closed loop bulkhead fittings which will be through the bottom of the tank. I need to make sure I get quality fittings, and do an expert job of installing them. The overflow box is 9" square, giving me 36" of overflow.....I know the move is to more closed loop flow, and less flow through the sump/refug....I wnat to make sure this is well thought out and not limiting to me in any way in the future.....
<This is something many would choose to avoid in the event that there's <ever a problem with the bulkhead (ie. you'd have to drain the entire t<ank to replace it).
The vast majority of tanks have a back or an end to work with and an option not to go through the bottom, so it's easy for people to suggest the risk. I don't have experience with anything like this so I really don't know.. I really have no option here. If done correctly, do you really think I'll be risking with bulkhead fittings in the bottom? I plan on installing a membrane in the tank stand which will actually have a drain through the floor below. I could easily tolerate years of a drip I suppose if necessary? What do you think? I'll be setting this thing up in my shop initially after bulkhead fittings are installed before it goes on location upstairs...
Jack
Jack
I've just unwrapped the tank and have it in our shop area. Wow what a beautiful thing and a long time coming. I'll see if I can get a digital pic posted (never done that before to the forum) and then we can go from there. I'm already commited to one or two sets of 2" closed loop bulkhead fittings which will be through the bottom of the tank. I need to make sure I get quality fittings, and do an expert job of installing them. The overflow box is 9" square, giving me 36" of overflow.....I know the move is to more closed loop flow, and less flow through the sump/refug....I wnat to make sure this is well thought out and not limiting to me in any way in the future.....
<This is something many would choose to avoid in the event that there's <ever a problem with the bulkhead (ie. you'd have to drain the entire t<ank to replace it).
The vast majority of tanks have a back or an end to work with and an option not to go through the bottom, so it's easy for people to suggest the risk. I don't have experience with anything like this so I really don't know.. I really have no option here. If done correctly, do you really think I'll be risking with bulkhead fittings in the bottom? I plan on installing a membrane in the tank stand which will actually have a drain through the floor below. I could easily tolerate years of a drip I suppose if necessary? What do you think? I'll be setting this thing up in my shop initially after bulkhead fittings are installed before it goes on location upstairs...
Jack
Jack
Do you have teeth on the overflow box? If so, what are the dimensions?
It's certainly possible that you may never have a problem with the bottom bulkheads. I've never had to replace a bulkhead (or had one seeping) personally, but I've never installed them on the bottom either, so I really couldn't comment on the likelihood of having a problem. Maybe someone with first hand experience will chime in. Doing a test run in your shop is a wise plan IMO.
At any rate, it sounds like a nice setup. Post some pics for us when you can...
It's certainly possible that you may never have a problem with the bottom bulkheads. I've never had to replace a bulkhead (or had one seeping) personally, but I've never installed them on the bottom either, so I really couldn't comment on the likelihood of having a problem. Maybe someone with first hand experience will chime in. Doing a test run in your shop is a wise plan IMO.
At any rate, it sounds like a nice setup. Post some pics for us when you can...
The overflow has 36 teeth. Each tooth is 1/4" x 1 1/4"s The teeth run all the way to the top of the tank so I guess I'll never have to worry about things getting into the overflow. I just talked with Tenecor, and he said they are drilling / installing closed loop setups through tank bottoms on a regular basis with no problems...
My most immediate concerns are two items: first whether or not to add capacity to overflow and fish room, and two, how to size my closed loop system, and whether two install one or two closed loop setups....
I'll try to get a picture in later..
Jack
Tenecor Flat Back Hex with bent corners. 64"x 36" x 36" (The hex sides come out 24", then turn for 17"s to join the 40" front) Centered overflow 9" x 9"s. One 2" dry raceway, 2, 1" drains, and 2,3/4" returns in the overflow. Unfinished stand and custom hood (no lighting as of yet). I went 36" on the debth with full knowledge of the logistical difficulties this would present. I really wanted to be able to aquascape a 3 foot space, and being 6'4",I have really long arms and can actually reach almost every corner of the tank... so we'll see. I think a combo of large and small magnets will work even around the sweeping edges...
My most immediate concerns are two items: first whether or not to add capacity to overflow and fish room, and two, how to size my closed loop system, and whether two install one or two closed loop setups....
I'll try to get a picture in later..
Jack
Tenecor Flat Back Hex with bent corners. 64"x 36" x 36" (The hex sides come out 24", then turn for 17"s to join the 40" front) Centered overflow 9" x 9"s. One 2" dry raceway, 2, 1" drains, and 2,3/4" returns in the overflow. Unfinished stand and custom hood (no lighting as of yet). I went 36" on the debth with full knowledge of the logistical difficulties this would present. I really wanted to be able to aquascape a 3 foot space, and being 6'4",I have really long arms and can actually reach almost every corner of the tank... so we'll see. I think a combo of large and small magnets will work even around the sweeping edges...
What is the width of the space between teeth? Given that info I can calculate a rough capacity for you (although it sounds like you'll have plenty)...
On a tank that size I would probably plan for two closed loops, but that's somewhat dependent on what you plan to keep and what you have in mind for pumps, etc.
You should start a thread on your project and give us pics/updates periodically so we can follow along (and live vicariously through you! :wink: ).
On a tank that size I would probably plan for two closed loops, but that's somewhat dependent on what you plan to keep and what you have in mind for pumps, etc.
You should start a thread on your project and give us pics/updates periodically so we can follow along (and live vicariously through you! :wink: ).
Thanks Chris,
The dimensions of the 'teeth' I included above were actually the spaces between the teeth for water flow.... Oh well, so much for providing a clear discription. I'm leaning towards 2, 1 1/2" clsd loop setups. I'm also feeling that tapping into the overflow box with 1 additional 1 1/2" line to augment my flow to the fish room shouldn't be any big deal, considering the drilling I've already committed to.... My goal is to have all options open with this tank now and in the future... I don't want to be wishing I had either more clsd loop flow, or flow to my fish room in the future. These things must be properly addressed now with the tank in my shop...
Jack
The dimensions of the 'teeth' I included above were actually the spaces between the teeth for water flow.... Oh well, so much for providing a clear discription. I'm leaning towards 2, 1 1/2" clsd loop setups. I'm also feeling that tapping into the overflow box with 1 additional 1 1/2" line to augment my flow to the fish room shouldn't be any big deal, considering the drilling I've already committed to.... My goal is to have all options open with this tank now and in the future... I don't want to be wishing I had either more clsd loop flow, or flow to my fish room in the future. These things must be properly addressed now with the tank in my shop...
Jack
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