new coral list help

[hlama]

hey everyone. i have been working on my coral list for my new tank. i have come up with the first draft. need lots of feedback on this one. the fish and the creatures below are going to stay i need help with the corals listed just below the creatures. ok here is my set up:

Tank……: 72x18x20H acrylic

Filtration..: 45 gal. Sump with 30lbs of Miracle Mud and growing
red Gracilaria
: 20 inch Coralife 18watt T5 10k light going 24/7.
: Sedra 1200gph and 586gph pumps(total of 1786gph)
: 2- Penguin 550 Powerheads (Marineland) 145gph. ea.(in the
main tank)

Lighting : 2- Icecap 660 Electronic Ballasts.
: 6-80watt 60” T5HO lights divided as follows:
; 2 - 6000K ATI Sun bulbs
; 1 - 6500K GE Starcoat bulb
; 2 – ATI True Actinic bulbs
; 1 - 11K ATI Aqua Blue bulb

Fish List:

1-Green clown goby (Gobioudon atrangulatrus)
1-Yellow clown goby (Gobioudon okiwawee)
5-Dispar anthias (Mirolabrichthys dispar)
2-Lineatus fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lineatus)
1-Canary blenny (Meiacanthus ovalaunensis)
1-Regal angel (Pygoplites diacanthus )
2-False percula clown (Amphiprion ocellaris)
1-Kole yellow eye tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus )


Creatures:

2-Feather duster (Sabellastarte sp.)
2- Dwarf colored feather duster (Bispira sp.)
2-Cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis))
1-Electric blue hermit crab (Calcinus elegans)
5-Zebra hermit crabs (Calcinus laevimanus)
5-Red legged mexican hermit crab (Clibanarius digueti)
1-Red flame serpent starfish (Ophioderma rubicundum)
1-Tiger serpent starfish (Ophiolepsis superba)
2- Turbo snail mexican (Turbo fluctuosa)
10-Nassarius snail (Nassarius vibex)
10-Turbo snails (Turbo fluctuosa)

Corals:

LPS
White bubble (Plerogyra sp.)
Elegance (Catalaphyllia jardinei)
Cynarina button (Cynarina sp.)
Candy cane (Caulastrea furcata)
Orange tube (Tubastrea aurea)
Lobophyllia brain (Lobophyllia spp.)
Red open brain (Trachyphyllia geoffroyi )

SPS
Blue Acropora (Acropora sp.)
Birdsnest (Seriatopora hystrix)
Merulina (Merulina ampliata)

Leather
Carnation tree (Dendronephthya sp.)
Yellow Fiji leather (Sarcophyton elegans)
Toadstool leather (Sarcophyton sp.)
Green tree (Nepthea sp.)

Misc. Coral
Red finger gorgonia (Diodogorgia nodulifera)
Green lace gorgonia (Gorgonia species)
Blue mushroom (Actinodiscus sp.)

Clams
Crocea clam (Tridacna crocea)
Maxima clam (Tridacna maxima)


ok so what do you think???

 

[Anonymous]

Very nice list Here are the things I disagree with:

You will need more lighting to grow the clams. Key word: grow. More lighting will also help your sps to thrive. More lighting= better results. Why go to all this trouble and not bother to invest in better lighting? T5's are great, no doubts, and there has been a lot of hoopla over them in forums, but do yourself a favor...metal halide.

Which brand of protein skimmer will you use?

And buy some good test kits. You will come to rely on them more than anything else.

Avoid the regal angel. Avoid the elegance coral. The tubastrea...ehh. It will need feeding of each polyp, a bit of work, but do-able. Make sure you can access it for feeding every two to three days. Avoid the Dendronephthya, you will not keep it alive.

I will assume you have enough sense to add all these creatures slowly. Have fun, I wish you best of luck!

 

[hlama]

Very nice list Here are the things I disagree with:

You will need more lighting to grow the clams. Key word: grow. More lighting will also help your sps to thrive. More lighting= better results. Why go to all this trouble and not bother to invest in better lighting? T5's are great, no doubts, and there has been a lot of hoopla over them in forums, but do yourself a favor...metal halide.

-tanks for the reply. i have done par reading myself at 18" deep under the water line and at 18" T5 and MH have about the same par reading useing a 250watt 10kMH . as far as light intensity MH puts out 85 lumens per watt, T5's put out 75lumens per watt and for comparison VHO put out 45 lumen per watt and PC's put put 35 lumens per watt. for the depth of my tank T5's are just fine. T5's also produce the shimmer effect at 15" deep which is at the level most of the corals will be at or above. for all the MH groupies here is a link to a the tank of the month at reefkeeping magazine march 2005 with sps corals and useing only T5's. make note my tank is not as tall. If i get MH i need a chiller, fans new canopy ect.. plus i already have one crack on the top of my acrylic tank. MH would be a bad choice for this tank. that is why i said need info with corals everything else will stay already done my homework on everything else and made my choices.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/totm/index.htm



Which brand of protein skimmer will you use?

-no skimmer because it takes out the plankton and other food sources needed for the hard to keep corals and fish. might use carbon 12-20 hours per week if nitrate and phosphates become an issue. if silicates go up i will just grow some sponges in the sump. plan on adding cleaners as needed aswell.


And buy some good test kits. You will come to rely on them more than anything else.

-got umm.


Avoid the regal angel. Avoid the elegance coral. The tubastrea...ehh. It will need feeding of each polyp, a bit of work, but do-able. Make sure you can access it for feeding every two to three days. Avoid the Dendronephthya, you will not keep it alive.

-again all fish stay as is. the regal angel i know about getting the red sea variant and the 6 week acclimation proccess and the diet needed. also aware they usually dont nip at corals but if they do they like Xenia and Acropora corals. not a big fan of those so willing to stock around the regal angel. am putting in one Acropora coral in just to see.



I will assume you have enough sense to add all these creatures slowly.

-you assume correct.

-the corals is what i want to talk about. i will post a reply later with more specific questions.


Have fun, I wish you best of luck!

- always, thanks a little luck goes a long way in this hobby

 

[SnowManSnow]

IMO that's too full of a fish load. But hey, it's just my opinion.

Skimmer = You'll need one. I have used AquaC with great success on my reef. Others can probably give you better advice for your size tank.

It sounds like a LFS helped you make out this list.. .thus the bunches of fish and expensive corals, some of which are increasing difficult to maintain in the hobby. Start with simple things, reguardless of what the store says. I would suggest some zooanthids, maybe a ricordia or 2. THe list you posted puts a lot of leathers agains a lot of SPS's ... sometimes these guys will wage chemical warfare agaist each other. I know adding simple and few things makes ur tank look bare in the beginning, but you'll yeild much better results in the long run.

I'm with the previous post as far as the MH lighting goes. I would also think that the MH lighting would be considerably cheaper to maintain than would the alternate lighting suggestion. If you buy 14K Blueline DE MH bulbs you won't have to have supplimental actinic either! OH.. and i SERIOUSLY doubt youll need a chiller with MH lighting.. VERY FEW ppl who have MH have the need for a chiller. IF you DO NEED TO COOL IT.. you can buy a few clip-on desk fans from walmart that will work just fine. BUT HEY....do what ya want to

Just my opinion of the post!

Hope you have good luck.
As an old man on the Mt. once told me: "Make haste slowly"

B

 

[Anonymous]

Very nice list Here are the things I disagree with:

You will need more lighting to grow the clams. Key word: grow. More lighting will also help your sps to thrive. More lighting= better results. Why go to all this trouble and not bother to invest in better lighting? T5's are great, no doubts, and there has been a lot of hoopla over them in forums, but do yourself a favor...metal halide.

-tanks for the reply. i have done par reading myself at 18" deep under the water line and at 18" T5 and MH have about the same par reading useing a 250watt 10kMH . as far as light intensity MH puts out 85 lumens per watt, T5's put out 75lumens per watt and for comparison VHO put out 45 lumen per watt and PC's put put 35 lumens per watt. for the depth of my tank T5's are just fine. T5's also produce the shimmer effect at 15" deep which is at the level most of the corals will be at or above. for all the MH groupies here is a link to a the tank of the month at reefkeeping magazine march 2005 with sps corals and useing only T5's. make note my tank is not as tall. If i get MH i need a chiller, fans new canopy ect.. plus i already have one crack on the top of my acrylic tank. MH would be a bad choice for this tank. that is why i said need info with corals everything else will stay already done my homework on everything else and made my choices.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/totm/index.htm

Which brand of protein skimmer will you use?

-no skimmer because it takes out the plankton and other food sources needed for the hard to keep corals and fish. might use carbon 12-20 hours per week if nitrate and phosphates become an issue. if silicates go up i will just grow some sponges in the sump. plan on adding cleaners as needed aswell.

Avoid the regal angel. Avoid the elegance coral. The tubastrea...ehh. It will need feeding of each polyp, a bit of work, but do-able. Make sure you can access it for feeding every two to three days. Avoid the Dendronephthya, you will not keep it alive.

-again all fish stay as is. the regal angel i know about getting the red sea variant and the 6 week acclimation proccess and the diet needed. also aware they usually dont nip at corals but if they do they like Xenia and Acropora corals. not a big fan of those so willing to stock around the regal angel. am putting in one Acropora coral in just to see.

-the corals is what i want to talk about. i will post a reply later with more specific questions.

ok so what do you think???

Well, you did ask for opions and just shot down someone willing to give you some honest answers. I wish you well, but won't be offering any help later when you run into problems as you seem to have all the answers already. Good luck.

 

[hlama]

Very nice list
Well, you did ask for opions and just shot down someone willing to give you some honest answers. I wish you well, but won't be offering any help later when you run into problems as you seem to have all the answers already. Good luck.

sorry to hear that but my questions were on the coral. not the filtration or fish. i had said that in the original question. yes i have the answers as far as everything else but still very open to coral list and leaving sps out or changing up the corals altogather. did not mean to shoot down the advice you gave just vented a little because in all the different forums i have posted in, everyone just keeps giving me advice on everything but the corals themselves. so i am sorry to have vented on you. you were just the straw that broke. so i apologize for getting fustrated and being like that. hope you understand. there are many specific questions i have but have to start somewhere before going to deep into it. when someone starts talking about the lighting and filtration the thread becomes a light thread not a coral one. now i think that has happend here. again i am sorry for being an "ass" about it.

for example the fish list was put togather with lot a research. not with any help from the LFS like the other reply said here. i ran my system and fish and creature list accross many forums and experts like Bob Fenner at wetwebmedia who said my system(showed him all but the corals)was great and should not have any issues. i have been working with him via E-mail thourgh out this project.
waitting till i get a better coral list before running it by any experts. that is why i only want to talk about corals fitting into this system and not talk about changing the system to fit the corals. this was the message i was trying to get out when i picked your post apart. again it was not personal just venting. as you can see i said nothing about the corals you brought up just vented on everything else. i really hope you understand and dont hold it against me.

 

[hlama]

IMO that's too full of a fish load. But hey, it's just my opinion.

Skimmer = You'll need one. I have used AquaC with great success on my reef. Others can probably give you better advice for your size tank.

- no my filtraion system is set.



It sounds like a LFS helped you make out this list.. .thus the bunches of fish and expensive corals, some of which are increasing difficult to maintain in the hobby.

-nope no help from LFS

Start with simple things, reguardless of what the store says. I would suggest some zooanthids, maybe a ricordia or 2. THe list you posted puts a lot of leathers agains a lot of SPS's ... sometimes these guys will wage chemical warfare agaist each other. I know adding simple and few things makes ur tank look bare in the beginning, but you'll yeild much better results in the long run.

-not newbie either. zooanthids good suggestion but the angel would just love those for a snack. i am worried about the sps with the leathers. have onle got 3 sps corals and putting them up stream and at the top of the rock work. am willing to to exchange the sps with something that can handle a strong current and the high light where i plan on placeing them. any suggestion here.

I'm with the previous post as far as the MH lighting goes. I would also think that the MH lighting would be considerably cheaper to maintain than would the alternate lighting suggestion. If you buy 14K Blueline DE MH bulbs you won't have to have supplimental actinic either! OH.. and i SERIOUSLY doubt youll need a chiller with MH lighting.. VERY FEW ppl who have MH have the need for a chiller. IF you DO NEED TO COOL IT.. you can buy a few clip-on desk fans from walmart that will work just fine. BUT HEY....do what ya want to

- no MH i live southern california and heat is a big issue here. my tanks i have now keep a temp of 80+ with just PC lighting and no heater. plus my acrylic tank already has a crack on the top. MH would be a problem with that.


Just my opinion of the post!

- thanks for your thoughs.

Hope you have good luck.
As an old man on the Mt. once told me: "Make haste slowly"

B

 

[Anonymous]

- no MH i live southern california and heat is a big issue here. my tanks i have now keep a temp of 80+ with just PC lighting and no heater. plus my acrylic tank already has a crack on the top. MH would be a problem with that.

First off, I know this will sound dumb, but don't you have ac? And why do you think mh is going to run too hot? Pc lighting gets way more hot than mh ever will. Besides heat issues are easy to take care of with the addition of fans, not the big a deal IMO.

If you'd like to get better answers to ?'s on corals, then you need to post in the GRF. You'll find all the helpful people there. This one is for hitchhikers. And just because I'm being "pissy" today :wink: that quote should have been like this.....

Very nice list

Well, you did ask for opions and just shot down someone willing to give you some honest answers. I wish you well, but won't be offering any help later when you run into problems as you seem to have all the answers already. Good luck.

Don't want unleashed's little red-nosed chipmuck coming after me! :lol:

BTW welcome to the forum and sorry for being a <fill in the blank> :twisted:

 

[hlama]

- First off, I know this will sound dumb, but don't you have ac?

not dumb i live near the beach dont use ac.

And why do you think mh is going to run too hot? Pc lighting gets way more hot than mh ever will. Besides heat issues are easy to take care of with the addition of fans, not the big a deal IMO.

-i would need three of them for my tank. i am more worried about the existing crack. its fixed but still. T5's i have no worries. it would suck in a year or two from now to have it crack real bad.going on the side of caution.

If you'd like to get better answers to ?'s on corals, then you need to post in the GRF. You'll find all the helpful people there. This one is for hitchhikers.

-cool have not posted there(even though its in my favorits)will be. i posted in like 15 different "coral" forums and only two have got good coral discusions going. all the rest talk about other thing :roll:

-hey i have couple of coral questions for you. i know about the sps corals being sensitive to the leather/softies secreations.i want to switch them with something that can handle strong current and lighting.(mistake on light getting 10k not 6-6500k). as they will be placed at the top of the rock work. any suggestions.

-also do you know anything about how noxous the secreations are of the leathers/softies to the LPS corals. if so which of the ones i have is more noxous then the others or which of the LPS are more/less sensitive. or visa versa.

aawww feels good to talk about corals. 8)

 

[Anonymous]

Moved to the GRD for some more replies 8)

 

[Anonymous]

Hlama, Welcome to RDO, if someone hasn't already!

With a bioload that big, you're going to need a skimmer. I know this post isn't about your filtration, but you're going to need one, or you're going to need to do 25% waterchanges every week. take your pick. Unless you've got a dedicated fish room, and a wholesale deal for salt, it's going to be a PITA. 25 gallons a week would suck. Your skimmer won't pull out EVERYTHING in the water. But it will pull out a bunch of the DOC's that will end up hurting your tank later.

I'm diggin your coral list besides the carnation and the elegance.

The carnation you'll need a 24/7 phyto drip to keep it alive. The elegance would say alive longer in your sump in the 'miracle' mud and pc lights.

I think you might be okay with the leathers and the SPS at opposite ends of the tank. You don't say where your tank is drilled, but if you put the sps and the leathers so their paths don't cross downstream to the overflow(s,) you may have better chance of success.

As far as your clean up crew, the food level of the tank will dictate how many snails/hermits you need. if there's not enough food to support the whole list, some will die off. If there's too much food, you'll probably get more baby snails.

You stated:
"Bob Fenner at wetwebmedia who said my system(showed him all but the corals)was great and should not have any issues."

Did you mention that you would be putting a lot of corals in there as well? or did you mention it as a fowlr? If you didn't key Mr Fenner in on that fact, you're leaving out a BIG piece of info.

Good luck
B

 

[hlama]

Hlama, Welcome to RDO, if someone hasn't already!

thanks i needed that

With a bioload that big, you're going to need a skimmer. I know this post isn't about your filtration, but you're going to need one, or you're going to need to do 25% waterchanges every week. take your pick. Unless you've got a dedicated fish room, and a wholesale deal for salt, it's going to be a PITA. 25 gallons a week would suck. Your skimmer won't pull out EVERYTHING in the water. But it will pull out a bunch of the DOC's that will end up hurting your tank later.

-i know this method is not popular. especially with those believers in the natural/sandbed method. i believe the eco/Miracle Mud method is a modified Jaubert system. skimmer would be bad for it. i attached a break down of different filtration systems. after reading it you can understand why i do not want to mix methods. i think picking a filter system is more than just fish only or reef.

I'm diggin your coral list besides the carnation and the elegance.

-nice thanks. the elegance i will be talking my friend into giving me one of his. he doesnt know about yet though hehehe. he ows me 200lbs of live rock i gave anyway, we will worrk something out. :idea: this system provides constant food supply for the carnation and Tubastrea aurea and
Gorgonia species. here is a couple links on this systemhttp://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/ ... l2001.html
http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/html/e ... years.html
these are kinda old 2000 then 2002 there are many more current articles in corallife mag reefkeeprs mag to name a few.ect.. please do look at the attachment to get better understanding of my thinking.

The carnation you'll need a 24/7 phyto drip to keep it alive. The elegance would say alive longer in your sump in the 'miracle' mud and pc lights.

-made a oopppss on the lighting it will be 10k bulbs not the 6000-6500k

I think you might be okay with the leathers and the SPS at opposite ends of the tank. You don't say where your tank is drilled, but if you put the sps and the leathers so their paths don't cross downstream to the overflow(s,) you may have better chance of success.

- overflow is top left corner of the tank. one only. got some good feedback and the corals will change but have to research some of the species suggested as good mixers. more than likely the sps are out and most if not all the leathers.

As far as your clean up crew, the food level of the tank will dictate how many snails/hermits you need. if there's not enough food to support the whole list, some will die off. If there's too much food, you'll probably get more baby snails.

-yup plan on adding them as needed.

You stated:
"Bob Fenner at wetwebmedia who said my system(showed him all but the corals)was great and should not have any issues."

Did you mention that you would be putting a lot of corals in there as well? or did you mention it as a fowlr? If you didn't key Mr Fenner in on that fact, you're leaving out a BIG piece of info.

-yeah i told him there will be corals mostly lps with some softies and couple sps and clams but nothing specific. i now have a good idea about what corals are good to mix and not in general. just stated getting info on individual corals that are not so sensitive or noxous. need to do some research on them have a big list to go over i will be back with a more workable list. think i will leave out the system info next time.
thanks everyone i will be back with a smaller and better list

 

[Anonymous]

just an fyi...



miracle mud=backyard dirt

 

[Anonymous]

I am happy that you are so gung-ho about this, hlama. However, you have completely ignored some excellent advice. I guess you feel you know what you are doing, and if so, I wish you well. Why are you asking us, then? You sound like every other newbie that has passed thru these boards, asking questions and choosing the answers that suit. You will hear what you wish, and since this entire hobby is subjective, you will always find someone to tell you what you wish to hear. Unfortunately, it will cost you dearly to learn that lesson.

I wonder why it hasn't occurred to you to ask yourself why the rest of us disagree with you. Perhaps none of us have a clue what we are doing. Is that what you think? Do you honestly believe that we have all ganged up to tell you lies, when the apparent "experts", like those advertising the Ecosystem tell you different?

Please consider some of the above advice, and then go carefully. You CAN succeed, but I still advise you to forget about the dendro, the tubastrea, and the elegance.

I guarantee you that you will not keep these animals alive longterm. I can also guarantee you that if you ask the Bobster (Bob Fenner) about these animals specifically, he will agree with us.

Good luck

 

[Anonymous]

JUST posting so i can keep track of this thread...continue..... 8)

 

[Entacmaea]

Hey there, one of the things that is happening here I think is that the more experienced reefers are doing exactly what their experience has compelled them to do- which is look at the system as a whole, not just the corals you want advice on. When you list all the specifics of your tank, it is probably unavoidable to get comments on the system as a whole- so please don't hold it againt them. It would probably be a good idea to ask yourself why out of the 15 times you've posted this on other forums, 13 of 15 posts have garnered dicussions about other aspects of your system.

You have clearly done research, probably more than some people have done when setting up a tank, which is great! However, I think there are still some places in your system plan that need help for long-term success and are necessarily addressed in conjuction with stocking- the need for a skimmer, and lightening the bioload (especially fish) as already mentioned. Also, looking at your circulation, I think it is adequate, but could also be increased with good effect- maybe add two more powerheads and a wavemaster (though the penguin powerheads don't stand up to the rigors of starting and stopping like Maxijets do.) The more circulation in the tank, the less chance of soft coral and SPS chemical warfare. I support the other coral recommendations that have been made here about dendronephthya and tubastrea, and would also caution you on putting shrooms in your tank- you might regret it later if they take off. But that is just my subjective experience!

Good luck- Peter

 

[hlama]

ok i guess everyone here likes to talk about MH. i think you can grow corals with T5. there was a mistake on the post i corrected in a reply the 6000 and 6500k bulbs will be 10k. if i change my lighting it will be to 6-96watt PC's
for the flow i think 2100gph is a good turn over rate thats 20x. seeing my friends tank wich is a 140gal tank with the same system i am running as far as filtration and has a heavy load. i know this will work without a skimmer. seems to me everyone here thinks there is only one way to set up a reef tank. posting in other forums i get everything from looks great to you guys saying nothing looks good. i have seen with my own eyes this system work so you will never talk me into doing things your way by saying it will not work. you can keep your skimmer and just say i can not keep dendronephthya and tubastrea corals. i spoke with the good folks at sea world about the eleagacne coral. they told me a couple of thing that might be causing the eleagance troubles. one is they have a real hard time absorbing minerals with a dkh of more than 9. humm interesting huh wonder whats yours is at. it does best with a dkh less than 8. and the lighting thing, o man are forums missleading, they dont like strong light. indirect lighting is what they like. also there are two different species although they have not yet been seperated the sea world people beleive this will be changeing soon. one with the yellow tips are collected at deeper waters and mostly relies on filter feeding and resides in more turbulant water and another collected form lagoons has plain tips and relies more on photosynthses. also likes more calm water. and to be placed upright with mouth faceing up. should not be place verticle. also dialtons the encrusting kind grow on the base and slowly push the coral off its skeleton allowing opetunistic pathogens to invade. there is more but no one here seems to wnat to talk about that. about the endronephthya does anyone know what they need to eat?? its fresh hatched brime shrimp. fresh to where the slim in the yolk still covers them. need to feed it 2x a week with them. not a lot of work for me. by the way most of the forums disagree with my lighting mostly MH groupies. i can see no one wants to talk about the corals care here unless it deals with the light and a skimmer. sorry but i have found many other sites that give much more information out and are not locked into one way of thinking. just saying it will not work really doesnt help anyone reading this. i know its not like you guys to even think there might be another way of doing things. My friend is a marine biologist and yes i take his advice over yours. do you really think i just went with what the folks at ecosystem said. if you have tried the ecosystem, knowing your thinking, you went with a dsd right and it did not work the way it was supposted to right. or did you feel the wet bio balls were not needed, either way you just effected the dynamics of the system in a negative way. i dont expect you to see why and will not try to explain and waste my time. i will say that this method deals with the oxygen rich nitrate and releases the minerals and O2 back into the system much like the Jaubert system.
check your favorite coral magazine and see what they say about it. i do have a more workable list now no leathers and less noxous corals. i am choosing corals more suitable for my system without adding a skimmer. i am waiting to hear back from bob fenner and others not related to the ecosystem. here is my list lets compare what he says to what you say.

Top
green Acropora coral (Acropora chesterfielsdensis sp.)
purple Acropora coral (Acropora sp.)
2-blue Acropora coral (Acropora sp.)
green Crocea clam

Mid Top
clavularia glove polyps (Clavularia sp)
candy cane coral (Caulastrea furcata)
orange tube coral (Tubastrea aurea)

Mid (opposite sides of tank )
elegance coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei)
white bubble coral (Plerogyra sp.)

Mid
blue Corcea clam
red carnation tree coral (Dendronephthya sp.)
closed brain pineapple coral (Favites spp.)


Bottom
cynarina button coral (Cynarina)-(lower rock)
green lobe brain coral (Lobophyllia spp)-(in sand)
red open brain coral(Trachyphyllia geoffroyi)-(in sand)

 

[Anonymous]

I'll bet you $100 you won't keep that carnation more than 50 days after you get it. (picture proof of twice-weekly shots) I'd say I shouldn't bet on the life of an animal, but you're going to buy it regardless of what ANYONE says. You've made up your mind you want one. But pick up Eric Borneman's Coral book. Julian Sprung's Corals of the World- and see what they say about carnations. I'd trust those two volumes over most other marine biologists any day of the week.

Also, that sun polyp needs to be fed more than 2x a week. And it will need more than brine shrimp.

If you're too "knowledged" to take our advice, Then why do you bother posting? You asked advice for stocking corals, and we gave them to you. I'm glad you looked at the leather/sps conflict and made an educated decision.

But with your "i've done the research and you can't change my mind" attitued, when you post here saying "Why is it. . " or "HELP! My _____________ is having problems," chances are you won't get many helpful replies.

Other than "<link> See, we told you so, and you didn't listen. So why should we help you now?"

Is your name Kurtis btw?

B

 

[Entacmaea]

I'm sorry you havn't received the answers you were looking for here. But I do think everyone is in good faith here, even you, if you would only dial down the hostility a bit.

Best, Peter

 

[hlama]

dont mean to be like this i really want to talk about coral combatibility but you guys just want to talk about lighting. and my skimmer. this is great but i like i said many times i want to talk about which corals will get along with each other. Eric Borneman's book is a good one. i was following his elegance project but i guess he lost interest because i have not seen anything about it for a couple of years. funny thing is i asked about the secreations of the leathers and how it effects lps corals the replies talked about lighting and skimming. had to get helpful info else were. all you guys say about the harder coral is they will die nothing about why or ideas on how to keep them. the elegance was at one time very easy to keep now it is not but instead of trying to find out why you say dont get it. your right about me making up my mind on the carnation and the elegance and the bubble corals i am getting no matter what. everything else is up for decusion. i also said they lighting and filtraion is staying. so out of everything i have. the only thing you can talk about is the only things i have made my choices on. it would be cool if you said something about them not just they will die. i did get good advice on the leathers that is why they are not on the list anymore but you guys just said it will not work never told me why. i honestly thought this site would be more open to various types of systems and knowlegable about some of the various methods didnt ask about them.

Bingo- no my name is not kurtis that is another guy. i just read through the thread and think you are the only one that posted anything about the care of the coral or combatability of them. and that info did help thanks. if you read through the thread you can see everyone wants to talk about my lighting or skimmer. i do understand your concerns about not skimming and the lighting. i asure you i will watch it carefully and adjust if needed. but this is what i am going in with. just need help with the combatibility part concerning the corals. by the way the reason i am not worried about the carnation is because my friend has one and its doing great. he has had it for about 3+ years. going with his advice on that one since i have not ever heard of anyone else keeping one that long, i view him as the expert on it.(he is not the marine biologist i referred to before)he also has a couple of elegance corals he has had for i think 10years or there about. i hope to talk him out of one of his. it is just fustrating to try and have a coral decuision but never get off the light or skimmer decusion.