Marine Aquarium Water & Septic systems
- Thread starter melas
- Start date
It will have little to no effect over all.
Your field drain pipes are set 6 feet under ground ( WELL below the top soil where your grass grows) they leach out in to a gravel bed.
At six feet down most of the time you will run into clay, or very compacted earth. Tighlty compacted earth,or clay do not absorb fast.
They absorb very slow. Anaerobic bacteria also grow in the gravel bed as well as your septic tank.
The chances of them being over come by the salt water and dying off are slim at 100g per month as already stated.
Think about all the cleaners,soaps,and toilet drain cleaner we put in there.
These are not normal anaerobic bactearia you might think of in your tank system. they are varocious to say the least. (suposedly the same type of bactearia that "some one" claims to use in a certain product in another thread). They grow in 3 layers in the septic tank: top ( some aerobic bacteria may be found here?scum layer),midlle (water), bottom (sludge). The shear numbers present say your safe (your system will/is more than likely close to 1000 gallons ).
salt content. There is no worry of over salting your your soil with the amount your going to be dumping. Ground water caused by rainwater will dilute it,or wash it away more than likely.
Rid-x is awsome! Use it every2-3 months as already recommended and you will probably never have a problem with bactrearia due to anything you dump in it.
Your field drain pipes are set 6 feet under ground ( WELL below the top soil where your grass grows) they leach out in to a gravel bed.
At six feet down most of the time you will run into clay, or very compacted earth. Tighlty compacted earth,or clay do not absorb fast.
They absorb very slow. Anaerobic bacteria also grow in the gravel bed as well as your septic tank.
The chances of them being over come by the salt water and dying off are slim at 100g per month as already stated.
Think about all the cleaners,soaps,and toilet drain cleaner we put in there.
These are not normal anaerobic bactearia you might think of in your tank system. they are varocious to say the least. (suposedly the same type of bactearia that "some one" claims to use in a certain product in another thread). They grow in 3 layers in the septic tank: top ( some aerobic bacteria may be found here?scum layer),midlle (water), bottom (sludge). The shear numbers present say your safe (your system will/is more than likely close to 1000 gallons ).
salt content. There is no worry of over salting your your soil with the amount your going to be dumping. Ground water caused by rainwater will dilute it,or wash it away more than likely.
Rid-x is awsome! Use it every2-3 months as already recommended and you will probably never have a problem with bactrearia due to anything you dump in it.
Dear Fragmaster,
We shall stick to this thread.
You made some misleading statements in regards to the the sewage from a septic tank. Also in regards to the three layers of water.
Well, something’s you almost have correct, but not so. I developed my Patented bacteria FOR the waste water treatment. This includes septic tanks.
Regal Research (Whom the owner died in 2000) did a 7 year study with my bacteria. His results confirmed I was on the correct track. It even allowed the water to drop over 2 feet when used and after a year with only one treatment for 750 US Gallon of 60 grams, there was 1-2 INCHES of material remaining in the system and no cake on the top.
As for your statement that in a septic tank there are different anaerobic bacteria than in an aquarium is very foolish. PERIOD!
In Malibu, California we treated a 100,000 gallon septic tank that has 300 people using it on a weekly basis with only 4 ounces of our material. It totally destroyed the sludge, smell (within 24 hours) and has kept the system working by only putting our bacteria only once every three months. Even the pumping service asked why they were having it pumped out because it was not needed.
Respectfully submitted,
Snake
562 428 9973
http://www.HDLtd.com
We shall stick to this thread.
You made some misleading statements in regards to the the sewage from a septic tank. Also in regards to the three layers of water.
Well, something’s you almost have correct, but not so. I developed my Patented bacteria FOR the waste water treatment. This includes septic tanks.
Regal Research (Whom the owner died in 2000) did a 7 year study with my bacteria. His results confirmed I was on the correct track. It even allowed the water to drop over 2 feet when used and after a year with only one treatment for 750 US Gallon of 60 grams, there was 1-2 INCHES of material remaining in the system and no cake on the top.
As for your statement that in a septic tank there are different anaerobic bacteria than in an aquarium is very foolish. PERIOD!
In Malibu, California we treated a 100,000 gallon septic tank that has 300 people using it on a weekly basis with only 4 ounces of our material. It totally destroyed the sludge, smell (within 24 hours) and has kept the system working by only putting our bacteria only once every three months. Even the pumping service asked why they were having it pumped out because it was not needed.
Respectfully submitted,
Snake
562 428 9973
http://www.HDLtd.com
Well regardless of what chemicals or additives you put into a septic system the law requires certain set ups. You cant just dig a hole and call it a septic system.
So the builder has little choice as to how the tank is built. Unless of course you circumvent local laws/regulations.
So the builder has little choice as to how the tank is built. Unless of course you circumvent local laws/regulations.
Melas,
Your’s is a very good question, and one not to be taken lightly.
In my neck of the woods, sand mounds are typically incorporated into septic systems in areas with shallow depth to bedrock, areas with soil types that have very low percolation rates, or areas that have seasonally high groundwater. While seasonally high groundwater could work in your favor by diluting the salt water and moving it off site, the other two typical conditions for sand mound septic systems could be problematic. Remember, discharging 100 gallons of salt water to a septic system each month is the same as dumping two bags of salt mix down the drain each month.
I'd recommend discussing this topic with the engineer that designed your septic system or the government agency that did your perc. test. Otherwise, you might find yourself unable to grow grass over your septic field one day.
Sincerely,
Lee
Your’s is a very good question, and one not to be taken lightly.
In my neck of the woods, sand mounds are typically incorporated into septic systems in areas with shallow depth to bedrock, areas with soil types that have very low percolation rates, or areas that have seasonally high groundwater. While seasonally high groundwater could work in your favor by diluting the salt water and moving it off site, the other two typical conditions for sand mound septic systems could be problematic. Remember, discharging 100 gallons of salt water to a septic system each month is the same as dumping two bags of salt mix down the drain each month.
I'd recommend discussing this topic with the engineer that designed your septic system or the government agency that did your perc. test. Otherwise, you might find yourself unable to grow grass over your septic field one day.
Sincerely,
Lee
Areas with low percolation rates are one in the same with areas that have seasonally high ground water in most cases 
Percolation rate is my reasoning that it may not effect anything at all if he dumps 100g of salt water in the system per month.
The longer it takes to percolate up (veticly) through the soil, the greater distance it will travel through the soil (horizontaly/ path of least resistance).
I see this as a good thing. Greater area for deposits, less concentration.
on the other hand if he lives in an area where the soil percolation rate is very high then he will have to go with the "mound" method you touched on. Due to more reasons than just the salt water
( IE stinky sloshy yard EEEWWwwwww!)
The mound system also requires a sump pump in a seperate dosing tank for the efluent to run off into to be pumped out into a mound set up on a section of your yard with a 15 deg or less rake for run off.
Much more expensive system. ANd you will have an unsightly "mound" litteraly sticking out in the middle of your yard where ever you place it
Your going to have to get it pumped out every year any ways as per regular maintenance procedures of on site sewage any how. SO I would swet it to much.
It IS a good idea to run it by your builder though.
He/She, may be able to modefy your system some how to handle it?
Longer septic field? who knows.
Keep us posted on what they tell ya this is interesting!
Percolation rate is my reasoning that it may not effect anything at all if he dumps 100g of salt water in the system per month.
The longer it takes to percolate up (veticly) through the soil, the greater distance it will travel through the soil (horizontaly/ path of least resistance).
I see this as a good thing. Greater area for deposits, less concentration.
on the other hand if he lives in an area where the soil percolation rate is very high then he will have to go with the "mound" method you touched on. Due to more reasons than just the salt water
( IE stinky sloshy yard EEEWWwwwww!)
The mound system also requires a sump pump in a seperate dosing tank for the efluent to run off into to be pumped out into a mound set up on a section of your yard with a 15 deg or less rake for run off.
Much more expensive system. ANd you will have an unsightly "mound" litteraly sticking out in the middle of your yard where ever you place it
Your going to have to get it pumped out every year any ways as per regular maintenance procedures of on site sewage any how. SO I would swet it to much.
It IS a good idea to run it by your builder though.
He/She, may be able to modefy your system some how to handle it?
Longer septic field? who knows.
Keep us posted on what they tell ya this is interesting!
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