A
Anonymous
Guest
Aren't those things really expensive to run? Like running a refrigerator with the door open....
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Anonymous
Guest
Not nearly as expensive as pulling all your drywall down and replacing the studs because they have rotted.....
plus didn't you get the memo?
Louey is a kazilldionaire....
:lol:
plus didn't you get the memo?
Louey is a kazilldionaire....
:lol:
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Anonymous
Guest
Guy wrote:
I have no idea. But as you can see, my choices were clear. Fix the humidity problem or break the tank down. The latter was not an option. Not over the cost of a few more dollars on the power bill.
I must admit that I start shaking when the power bill comes in the mail. I drink three beers, then open it. It's easier to take that way. :lol:
Louey
I have no idea. But as you can see, my choices were clear. Fix the humidity problem or break the tank down. The latter was not an option. Not over the cost of a few more dollars on the power bill.
I must admit that I start shaking when the power bill comes in the mail. I drink three beers, then open it. It's easier to take that way. :lol:
Louey
I think a HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) unit is another possible solution although I don't have any experience with them...
ChrisRD wrote:
Yes, I believe a HRV would solve the problem too. They are more costly and more difficult to install, I think.
The dehumidifier seems to be working fine in my situation.
It has actually gotten the fish room down to 40%. That's quite a bit lower then the rest of the house. I'll probably run it a higher humidity (55-60%) once I am comfortable with it.
Louey
Yes, I believe a HRV would solve the problem too. They are more costly and more difficult to install, I think.
The dehumidifier seems to be working fine in my situation.
It has actually gotten the fish room down to 40%. That's quite a bit lower then the rest of the house. I'll probably run it a higher humidity (55-60%) once I am comfortable with it.
Louey
Ok, I saw that 45 pint version at HD, the "electronic" one? I assume that just means all the bells and whistle gadgets to make it run (ie it doesn't run 24hrs a day unless it has to??) as opposed to the "mechanical" version which is on or off as you turn it on/off
Looked at target and saw a $40 one.. but that has less than 1 pint capacity..doubt that'd be very useful for a fish room.
Looked at target and saw a $40 one.. but that has less than 1 pint capacity..doubt that'd be very useful for a fish room.
You have the same thing in your fish room that causes the morning dew on your car. The air is loading up on moisture during the day when the air is warm. When the air cools down at night it can not hold as much moisture and it is precipitating out in the form of condensate on the cooler surfaces.
Yea it’s going to cost him a little more for electricity $20 to $30 more a month depending of what size it is and what the rates are for him. But what he is going to save in the long run will be worth it.
Some of the things this will avoid are;
Replacing all the drywall or other wall/floor coverings in the room due to rot, mildew or that nasty black fungus that grows in damp locations. I have seen entire Apt complexes evacuated and condemned because of this stuff growing in the walls. It makes people very sick when they breathe the spores.
Having the drywall ceiling fall in to the room due to moisture buildup in the material.
Having that wood stand that is already discolored from moisture fail dumping the tank on the floor. Exterior grade plywood is moisture resistant not water proof. Even marine grade plywood must be covered on both sided to withstand being in or near water all the time. If it was my stand I would put a coat or 2 of a water base urethane or sealer on the inside just to seal it. No oil or solvent based stuff as the fumes could be absorbed by the water and be bad for your tank.
Spending 10 times as much trying to run the central AC to pull that much water out of the air. Any AC tech can tell you that the unit must dry out the air before it can start cooling.
Why run a unit at 220v pulling 18 amps when you can do the same thing with the one in the room running on 110v and pulling less than 10 amps.
I would advise to have some type of glass cover for the tank. Plastic will usually warp and bend under the lights. It does not need to cover the whole tank or be any thing close to air/water tight. But any thing that will slow down the transfer of moisture in to the room would be helpful.
Yea it’s going to cost him a little more for electricity $20 to $30 more a month depending of what size it is and what the rates are for him. But what he is going to save in the long run will be worth it.
Some of the things this will avoid are;
Replacing all the drywall or other wall/floor coverings in the room due to rot, mildew or that nasty black fungus that grows in damp locations. I have seen entire Apt complexes evacuated and condemned because of this stuff growing in the walls. It makes people very sick when they breathe the spores.
Having the drywall ceiling fall in to the room due to moisture buildup in the material.
Having that wood stand that is already discolored from moisture fail dumping the tank on the floor. Exterior grade plywood is moisture resistant not water proof. Even marine grade plywood must be covered on both sided to withstand being in or near water all the time. If it was my stand I would put a coat or 2 of a water base urethane or sealer on the inside just to seal it. No oil or solvent based stuff as the fumes could be absorbed by the water and be bad for your tank.
Spending 10 times as much trying to run the central AC to pull that much water out of the air. Any AC tech can tell you that the unit must dry out the air before it can start cooling.
Why run a unit at 220v pulling 18 amps when you can do the same thing with the one in the room running on 110v and pulling less than 10 amps.
I would advise to have some type of glass cover for the tank. Plastic will usually warp and bend under the lights. It does not need to cover the whole tank or be any thing close to air/water tight. But any thing that will slow down the transfer of moisture in to the room would be helpful.
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