A
Anonymous
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I got bored and wrote this for my club's newsletter. Figured I may as well post it here. 
"Reef-safe Wrasses? The genera Bodianus and Halichoeres.
In a previous article I introduced you to the fairy and flasher wrasses, genera Paracheilinus and Cirrhilabrus. These genera are far and away the best choice of wrasses for a peaceful reef aquarium as they are highly unlikely to be aggressive towards other fish or consume desirable invertebrates. If one is willing to keep certain invertebrates out of the display tank, the Bodianus and Halichoeres spp. can make equally stunning and peaceful fish for a reef display.
What does ‘reef safe’ mean, anyway? We all throw this term around a bit, without having a real clear definition of its meaning. For some, ‘reef safe’ means the animal will not consume or harm corals. For some, ‘reef safe’ means the animal will not eat clams, corals, shrimp, or small fish. I find just about any definition of ‘reef safe’ restricting, because a carefully designed reef tank can house many species most would not consider reef safe without incident. I find it more useful to list information regarding the diet of a particular fish in the wild and in the aquarium, rather than simply throwing it into one of two ill-defined groups.
The genera Bodianus and Halichoeres will eat just about any small crustacean in your aquarium—crabs, shrimp, isopods, and amphipods are all preyed on by these wrasses in the wild. Large Lysmata spp. or ‘cleaner’ shrimps will likely be left alone if introduced before the wrasse, but there is definitely a risk to these as well. Both genera eat large amounts of chitons and gastropods in the wild, so any small snails that can fit in the wrasse’s mouth will likely be consumed. The upside of this is that either genera can be used to help control pyramidellid snails that parasitize Tridacna spp. clams. I have had good luck with using larger snails and urchins to clean algae in tanks containing these wrasses. Small clams are also on the list—any farm raised baby Tridacna clams are likely to be eaten. Larger clams will likely be left alone. The genus Halichoeres will consume polychaetes or ‘bristleworms’ as well. Both genera will leave all but the very smallest of fish alone.
All the members of both these genera are protogynous hermaphrodites; like anthias, sexually immature juveniles turn into females first, with the possibility of changing into males later. When a dominant male is removed, the most dominant female changes into a male. This means, at least in the case of the Halichoeres wrasses, that you can house several juveniles together and form a shoal in large aquariums. I have not heard or tried housing several Bodianus spp. together so I cannot recommend it.
The fish you house your Halichoeres or Bodianus wrasses with are important to consider. Because these wrasses are active swimmers, they may intimidate smaller more peaceful fish like firefish or gobies. However, neither genera are very aggressive to unrelated fish species at all. They are also very good at avoiding aggressive behavior directed at them from more aggressive angelfish or tangs. In my experience both of these genera will coexist peacefully with Cirrhilabrus wrasses if the fairy wrasse is added first. Halichoeres wrasses can be kept with congeners in larger tanks. If you would like to keep a Bodianus and Halichoeres wrasse in the same tank, add the Halichoeres wrasse first.
Both of these genera will readily accept aquarium food. If an individual is reluctant to feed a bit of frozen mysis will almost always be accepted. Hogfish are, as the name implies, willing to eat just about anything. The diet in the aquarium should consist of chopped shrimp, crab, mysis shrimp, and any other carnivorous diet. It should be noted that several Bodianus spp. (B. rufus, pulchellus, and mesothorax, among others) will act as cleaners as juveniles.
Like all other wrasses, a completely covered aquarium is an absolute necessity. All are great jumpers that will find a way to make it out of the little one inch hole in your hood or canopy, I promise. The active swimming of these fish means they will need a large tank with plenty of swimming room. Some of the larger hogfish get over two feet long and are clearly not suitable for the bulk of home aquarists, while the smallest get just over 4 inches. A 30 gallon tank would be about the minimum size to house the smallest of either genera, but since there is such a wide variation in size I am reluctant to list a catch all minimum tank size for either genera. Bodianus wrasses do not need a substrate to bury themselves in at night. Although they bury themselves in sand, Halichoeres wrasses are not completely dependent on a sand substrate. They will bury themselves if sand is available but appear to be just as content wedging themselves in a rock at night. I have kept them in tanks with shallow crushed coral substrate without any problems.
The fun part, the species! There are as many as 70 species in these genera, but only a few are commonly imported to local fish stores. All the ones listed here will make great additions to a carefully thought out tank, in my opinion. Please consider the adult size of these fish when selecting one for your tank.
B. bimaculatus, the Candy or Two Spot Hogfish. Maximum length 4 inches. A slightly pricey but absolutely stunning fish.
B. mesothorax, the Mesothorax or Coral Hogfish. Maximum length 10 inches. Subdued but unique coloration and very peaceful.
B. opercularis and B. masudai, the Peppermint or Candycane Hogfish. Maximum length 9 inches. These two species are commonly sold as each other, and look virtually identical at a glance. Very rare in the hobby, likely over $200 retail.
B. rufus, the Spanish Hogfish. Maximum length 16 inches. A beautiful giant, commonly sold to folks with too small of a tank for the adult fish.
B. pulchellus, the Cuban or Spotfin Hogfish, Maximum length 8 inches. My favorite hog because of its bold coloration, disposition, and relatively small size.
B. sanguineus, the Neon or Sunrise Hogfish. Maximum size 6 inches. This would be my favorite hog if I could afford the over $1000 price. Absolutely electric coloration and small size, but virtually unobtainable in the hobby. There is one on display at the Waikiki Aquarium.
H. chrysus, the Yellow “Coris” or Canary Wrasse. Maximum length 4 inches. Most commonly sold member of the genus by far. Great reef fish.
H. iridis, the Radiant Wrasse. Maximum length 6 inches. Probably my favorite fish from both genera. Slightly pricey but unusual and stunning coloration.
H. ornatissimus, the Ornate or Christmas Wrasse. Maximum length 7 inches. Simlar in appearance to H. marginatus and H. vrolikii. Pricey and a bit more sensitive to shipping than others listed.
H. garnoti, the Bluestriped Wrasse. Maximum length 6 inches. A fairly new addition to hobbyists from the Western Atlantic. Juveniles are boldly colored.
Adult
Juvenile
"
"Reef-safe Wrasses? The genera Bodianus and Halichoeres.
In a previous article I introduced you to the fairy and flasher wrasses, genera Paracheilinus and Cirrhilabrus. These genera are far and away the best choice of wrasses for a peaceful reef aquarium as they are highly unlikely to be aggressive towards other fish or consume desirable invertebrates. If one is willing to keep certain invertebrates out of the display tank, the Bodianus and Halichoeres spp. can make equally stunning and peaceful fish for a reef display.
What does ‘reef safe’ mean, anyway? We all throw this term around a bit, without having a real clear definition of its meaning. For some, ‘reef safe’ means the animal will not consume or harm corals. For some, ‘reef safe’ means the animal will not eat clams, corals, shrimp, or small fish. I find just about any definition of ‘reef safe’ restricting, because a carefully designed reef tank can house many species most would not consider reef safe without incident. I find it more useful to list information regarding the diet of a particular fish in the wild and in the aquarium, rather than simply throwing it into one of two ill-defined groups.
The genera Bodianus and Halichoeres will eat just about any small crustacean in your aquarium—crabs, shrimp, isopods, and amphipods are all preyed on by these wrasses in the wild. Large Lysmata spp. or ‘cleaner’ shrimps will likely be left alone if introduced before the wrasse, but there is definitely a risk to these as well. Both genera eat large amounts of chitons and gastropods in the wild, so any small snails that can fit in the wrasse’s mouth will likely be consumed. The upside of this is that either genera can be used to help control pyramidellid snails that parasitize Tridacna spp. clams. I have had good luck with using larger snails and urchins to clean algae in tanks containing these wrasses. Small clams are also on the list—any farm raised baby Tridacna clams are likely to be eaten. Larger clams will likely be left alone. The genus Halichoeres will consume polychaetes or ‘bristleworms’ as well. Both genera will leave all but the very smallest of fish alone.
All the members of both these genera are protogynous hermaphrodites; like anthias, sexually immature juveniles turn into females first, with the possibility of changing into males later. When a dominant male is removed, the most dominant female changes into a male. This means, at least in the case of the Halichoeres wrasses, that you can house several juveniles together and form a shoal in large aquariums. I have not heard or tried housing several Bodianus spp. together so I cannot recommend it.
The fish you house your Halichoeres or Bodianus wrasses with are important to consider. Because these wrasses are active swimmers, they may intimidate smaller more peaceful fish like firefish or gobies. However, neither genera are very aggressive to unrelated fish species at all. They are also very good at avoiding aggressive behavior directed at them from more aggressive angelfish or tangs. In my experience both of these genera will coexist peacefully with Cirrhilabrus wrasses if the fairy wrasse is added first. Halichoeres wrasses can be kept with congeners in larger tanks. If you would like to keep a Bodianus and Halichoeres wrasse in the same tank, add the Halichoeres wrasse first.
Both of these genera will readily accept aquarium food. If an individual is reluctant to feed a bit of frozen mysis will almost always be accepted. Hogfish are, as the name implies, willing to eat just about anything. The diet in the aquarium should consist of chopped shrimp, crab, mysis shrimp, and any other carnivorous diet. It should be noted that several Bodianus spp. (B. rufus, pulchellus, and mesothorax, among others) will act as cleaners as juveniles.
Like all other wrasses, a completely covered aquarium is an absolute necessity. All are great jumpers that will find a way to make it out of the little one inch hole in your hood or canopy, I promise. The active swimming of these fish means they will need a large tank with plenty of swimming room. Some of the larger hogfish get over two feet long and are clearly not suitable for the bulk of home aquarists, while the smallest get just over 4 inches. A 30 gallon tank would be about the minimum size to house the smallest of either genera, but since there is such a wide variation in size I am reluctant to list a catch all minimum tank size for either genera. Bodianus wrasses do not need a substrate to bury themselves in at night. Although they bury themselves in sand, Halichoeres wrasses are not completely dependent on a sand substrate. They will bury themselves if sand is available but appear to be just as content wedging themselves in a rock at night. I have kept them in tanks with shallow crushed coral substrate without any problems.
The fun part, the species! There are as many as 70 species in these genera, but only a few are commonly imported to local fish stores. All the ones listed here will make great additions to a carefully thought out tank, in my opinion. Please consider the adult size of these fish when selecting one for your tank.
B. bimaculatus, the Candy or Two Spot Hogfish. Maximum length 4 inches. A slightly pricey but absolutely stunning fish.
B. mesothorax, the Mesothorax or Coral Hogfish. Maximum length 10 inches. Subdued but unique coloration and very peaceful.
B. opercularis and B. masudai, the Peppermint or Candycane Hogfish. Maximum length 9 inches. These two species are commonly sold as each other, and look virtually identical at a glance. Very rare in the hobby, likely over $200 retail.
B. rufus, the Spanish Hogfish. Maximum length 16 inches. A beautiful giant, commonly sold to folks with too small of a tank for the adult fish.
B. pulchellus, the Cuban or Spotfin Hogfish, Maximum length 8 inches. My favorite hog because of its bold coloration, disposition, and relatively small size.
B. sanguineus, the Neon or Sunrise Hogfish. Maximum size 6 inches. This would be my favorite hog if I could afford the over $1000 price. Absolutely electric coloration and small size, but virtually unobtainable in the hobby. There is one on display at the Waikiki Aquarium.
H. chrysus, the Yellow “Coris” or Canary Wrasse. Maximum length 4 inches. Most commonly sold member of the genus by far. Great reef fish.
H. iridis, the Radiant Wrasse. Maximum length 6 inches. Probably my favorite fish from both genera. Slightly pricey but unusual and stunning coloration.
H. ornatissimus, the Ornate or Christmas Wrasse. Maximum length 7 inches. Simlar in appearance to H. marginatus and H. vrolikii. Pricey and a bit more sensitive to shipping than others listed.
H. garnoti, the Bluestriped Wrasse. Maximum length 6 inches. A fairly new addition to hobbyists from the Western Atlantic. Juveniles are boldly colored.
Adult
Juvenile
"
