Need help with Stockman Standpipe
- Thread starter desertfish
- Start date
Hey David, for a single 1.5" drain, go with a 1.5" pipe for the downpipe and 2.5" for the "cap." I'm not sure what union fitting you are referring to.
IMO, Stockman and Durso standpipes aren't the ideal solution. I would rather put a gatevalve on the downpipe (most practical location is below the tank near the sump) to limit the flow to maintain a specific water height in the overflow. It sounds like it would be finicky (e.g. any small clog or variation could overflow your tank), but surprisingly, it's very consistent. If your tank isn't built yet, you can drill a second hole in the overflow as an emergency drain in case the main drain clogs (again, unlikely). Just have the emergency drain pipe go above the usual water line in the overflow box.
IMO, Stockman and Durso standpipes aren't the ideal solution. I would rather put a gatevalve on the downpipe (most practical location is below the tank near the sump) to limit the flow to maintain a specific water height in the overflow. It sounds like it would be finicky (e.g. any small clog or variation could overflow your tank), but surprisingly, it's very consistent. If your tank isn't built yet, you can drill a second hole in the overflow as an emergency drain in case the main drain clogs (again, unlikely). Just have the emergency drain pipe go above the usual water line in the overflow box.
Mihai, the only reason I don't like them is because they suck air 
Granted, it's much quieter then gargling noises or cascading waterfalls. But it puts out a fair amount of bubbles into my sump and it's not dead quiet. With the gate valve method, it's both dead quiet and bubble-free.
Granted, it's much quieter then gargling noises or cascading waterfalls. But it puts out a fair amount of bubbles into my sump and it's not dead quiet. With the gate valve method, it's both dead quiet and bubble-free.
Yep, I'm using this. I used it on my 120g for 10 years without incidence. My new tank was set up with a Durso, but I've since used a valve on my downpipe to restrict the flow and control the water level in my overflow (the Durso siphon is still installed .... just not working as a Durso anymore since the air intake is fully closed now). It's much quieter with very little bubbles going into the sump.
I was very concerned about using a standard strainer on my drain. My fear is it will get clogged very easily and increase the likelihood of flooding. My solution was to build my own strainer with a PVC pipe with lots and lots of ~1/4 to 3/8" holes. With this size strainer, I don't worry about big objects getting clogged in the bulkhead area (or anywhere that is slightly restricted) and I don't worry about small debris collecting over time and clogging the strainer itself. Since the tank isn't built yet, drill that second hole in the overflow to allow for the emergency drain. you should have absolutely nothing to worry about if you have this emergency drain. Keep in mind, on my old 120g, I only twice had my overflow clog on: once because a tang (yes, tang!) jumped into my overflow and got caught in the drain suction and the other time when a small snail decided to slide down the chute. I was not using a strainer at the time. With my new strainer, I don't foresee having these problems again. I just need to make sure the strainer doesn't clog up over time.
I was very concerned about using a standard strainer on my drain. My fear is it will get clogged very easily and increase the likelihood of flooding. My solution was to build my own strainer with a PVC pipe with lots and lots of ~1/4 to 3/8" holes. With this size strainer, I don't worry about big objects getting clogged in the bulkhead area (or anywhere that is slightly restricted) and I don't worry about small debris collecting over time and clogging the strainer itself. Since the tank isn't built yet, drill that second hole in the overflow to allow for the emergency drain. you should have absolutely nothing to worry about if you have this emergency drain. Keep in mind, on my old 120g, I only twice had my overflow clog on: once because a tang (yes, tang!) jumped into my overflow and got caught in the drain suction and the other time when a small snail decided to slide down the chute. I was not using a strainer at the time. With my new strainer, I don't foresee having these problems again. I just need to make sure the strainer doesn't clog up over time.
Wow! I was looking for this solution for AGES! A method to get the water out of my upstream fuge into my display quietly and without getting TONS and TONS of bubbles...
So, how does this go? You don't use any standpipe in the overflow I assume, right? Then on the drain you put a gate valve (would a ball valve do?) and you start closing it until the water in the overflow gets close to the teeth?
M.
So, how does this go? You don't use any standpipe in the overflow I assume, right? Then on the drain you put a gate valve (would a ball valve do?) and you start closing it until the water in the overflow gets close to the teeth?
M.
It should work with/without the standpipe (but might actually be easier to adjust with one). The gate valve is recommended because a ball valve is really for on/off operation and is generally difficult to make precise adjustments with...
I've always had a standpipe, even with this design. I'm guessing you could do without one, but then again, the added water pressure (without the standpipe, there is simply more water "pressing" down) may make the valve adjustments more tricky/sensitive. Another reason I use a standpipe now is to attach the DIY strainer.
There is a gate valve (ball valve will do, but it isn't as precise) at the drain side below the tank. You simply partially close it until the water level in the overflow box is the desired height. The water pressure will keep it steady from that point on. Just make sure to check on it regularly for the first 48 hours since tiny valve adjustements take a little while to level out to its final water height position.
It's really a very simple method, but simple is always good I had this on my 120g, then decided to try Durso on my new tank to see if it's better. I couldn't tolerate the bubbles (and the air noise was not all that great either), so I asked around and several people here told me to go back to my valve method.
There is a gate valve (ball valve will do, but it isn't as precise) at the drain side below the tank. You simply partially close it until the water level in the overflow box is the desired height. The water pressure will keep it steady from that point on. Just make sure to check on it regularly for the first 48 hours since tiny valve adjustements take a little while to level out to its final water height position.
It's really a very simple method, but simple is always good
I had this on my 120g, then decided to try Durso on my new tank to see if it's better. I couldn't tolerate the bubbles (and the air noise was not all that great either), so I asked around and several people here told me to go back to my valve method.Thanks Len, I'm going to use the gate valve and DIY strainer and have the emergency drain drilled. Do you think a could get away with a 1" emergency drain or should i make it the same size as the main drain(1.5")? Once i get the tank up and running i'll let you know how it goes.
bradl.":ezkgifqe said:
Hey Brad, you can make it work in your scenario, but I would personally add a overflow partition to the back of your tank. I know it takes up space, but an overflow box has many advantages. For one, it's going to be a lot easier/faster to set the proper valve adjustments to get the desired water level.
A durso or stockman would be no safer and definitely not quieter in your situation.
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