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Simple question, complicating answer.

My PH ranges from 8.3 to 8.9. It is high during the day light cycle on my main tank...Lots of macro in the main tank. Low at night in the refugium alternate light cycle, lower powered lights as well, with a mangrove. There is Photosythesis during both periods. When I add CO2 with yeast and sugar water thru a tube (I don't add sugar and yeast in my tank...just to make CO2) My PH comes down. Noticed a little Cyano, very little. I don't have the funds to add CO2 right now, but I do have the controller and the PH is read with a meter on the controller.

How can I bring it down? I dose Fiji Gold Walt Smith stuff. 100% natural coral calcium...says thats all you need to dose. I do it sparingly, cuz the only Calcium I need is for my coralline and snails maybe slerites. :?
 

pwj1286

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Sounds like the comsumption of CO2 in your tank is high. Try adding stuff that will make CO2, like fish or take some Macros out. You do not have any corals that will use bicarbonates and calcium, except coralline.

Maybe you are adding too-much-too-often chemicals that control pH and alkalinity.

Put a SPS or LPS in your tank. I bet it would shoot off like a rocket with growth. Try some Montipora.


Have you tested your Alk, Ca, and pH? What are they?
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cjsrch

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to much buffer in the form of the ca additive i bet
mangro0ves dont add o2 unless they are compleatly submerged


anyways. keep using the yeast co2 system. i know that when my father turns his on on his fw ( heavily) planted tank it bring the ph down by .2


as for ca additive. the sand should maintain the ca in a tank with a light ca demand( slowly disolves)
 

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I am testing PH with a PH probe on an aqua controller Jr. Its about a month old, was already calibrated when I received it. I don't think its time for a calibration, but I could do one anyway. Also, it is next to my return sump pump.

As far as Ca and Alk, no test kit yet...I will get one and repost. I don't want to add sps's cuz I am at the tail end of my algae bloom. Hence the macro and the mangrove...Nitrates are 0.
 

Pookie

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For now I placed the majority of the macro in my refugium...This should keep the PH a little more stable...True the mangrove roots consume oxygen, leaves are above water level, thus no CO2. Continueing yeast CO2 for now. A montipora will be a great addition...going to the local coral farm this weekend.
 
A

Anonymous

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If you're not finding a Calcium carbonate crust on your heaters then I doubt that your PH gets up to 8.9.

My guess is that your meter is off.

You skimmer should be able to provide all the CO2 your tank needs, I'd stop adding CO2.
 

drbdc

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A probe is calibrated to be within a range, not to an exact number when you buy it. Warning on most pH calibration solutions and the errors involved. See this article:


http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-02/rhf/index.php

Do not keep adding co2 to the tank. It is not needed.

Also, sand will not maintain calcium as for it to disolve and release calcium you would have to have a pH in the 4 or 5 range. At least the low 6's. You should get your values close to normal sea water levels and then ONLY use a balanced supplement either commercial or homemade. Easiest way is to use a standard CaCl along with baking/washing soda. Don't forget the magnesium levels otherwise you will not be able to maintain proper ratios.
 

pwj1286

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I never heard of adding CO2 to a reef tank, for the purposes of bringing a tanks pH down.

Isn't that method typically for a planted freshwater?
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I am no longer adding CO2. Ordered the solution along with a Ca and Alk/PH test kit. I will post my results, when received. The probe is "lab grade". I will compare it with the test kit at the PH peek and low.

No Calcium deposits on my power heads.

I have more confidence in the PH probe than a test kit. How do others test their PH?
 

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I read the article. I ordered the Pin Point solution already, before reading. It is not in the red on the chart in the article and it appears to be, on the average within .1 range. That is the best I can do right now.
 

drbdc

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pH probe is the only accurate way for me anyway. I have great eyesight and it is still questionable on colors, at least with some tests. Pinpoint are about as good as you get on the solutions. The "un named" bottle from the LFS on that test I "think" is coralife. When I got my new hanna solutions, I calibrated and then tested a coralife 7.0 bottle that was unopened. I got a 7.4 something which matches that one in the test. Then look at the statement from the article:

Suppose that an aquarist calibrated with a pH 7 buffer that was really pH 7.5 and a pH 10 buffer that was really pH 10.0. In that case, the natural seawater pH value of 8.2 would read as pH 7.8.

No wonder I thought that my pH was running low. :lol: I wonder how many people are fighting problems that don't exist. I'll bet alot.
 

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Lets see what the results will be after calibration and with the test kits, with respect to Ca and Alk. There is no doubt, the macro's are consuming Co2...and there is at least a swing that I think is a concern.

I want to learn to keep it within range and stable.
 

drbdc

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pH probe is the only accurate way for me anyway. I have great eyesight and it is still questionable on colors, at least with some tests. Pinpoint are about as good as you get on the solutions. The "un named" bottle from the LFS on that test I "think" is coralife. When I got my new hanna solutions, I calibrated and then tested a coralife 7.0 bottle that was unopened. I got a 7.4 something which matches that one in the test. Then look at the statement from the article:

Suppose that an aquarist calibrated with a pH 7 buffer that was really pH 7.5 and a pH 10 buffer that was really pH 10.0. In that case, the natural seawater pH value of 8.2 would read as pH 7.8.

No wonder I thought that my pH was running low. :lol: I wonder how many people are fighting problems that don't exist. I'll bet alot.
 

drbdc

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You may find that it is out of wack. Make sure you test the magnesium because if it's low you won't be able to get the two to balance. Shoot for about 1350-1400 IMO.
 

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