T-5 lighting vs. MH

[Oceans Ferevh]

Ok, I am having a hell of a time deciding on upgrading the ballasts on my 2 250W MH pendants or switching to a TEK LITE T5 system. I'm rather worried about enegy consumption when we move in two weeks and want to go with the most efficiant cost effective route. I know there are a lot of MH buffs out there, but I need some un-biased opinions.

Here's the deal...I have a little 65G tank. 2 250W MH seems like a bit much (I had a Tim the Tool Man moment when I bought them). I would like to upgrade to a 90 bowfront in a year or two.


MH has a lot of benifits, but it heats up the tank and cost more to run

I was thinking of getting a larger T-5 unit to run on the 65G now and just overdriving the bulbs on different ballasts when I go to the 90G

I heard that if you use Icecap ballasts on the T-5 bulbs you can push a 54W bulb up to 80W. If that's the case then I'd rather go with the T-5s

Money is going to be tight when we move so I need low cost. however, I don't want to make any more mistakes. your opinions please.

 

[Len]

My opinion/experience on T5 is it's a very nice option if your tank isn't too deep. My chief complaint about them is they don't penetrate far into the water like MH, or even PCs for some strange reason. But they have a lot of attractive qualities. Your call If you decide on LPS and softies, I'd probably recommend going T5s. for SPS, it's a tougher choice. If you don't mind all the corals in the upper half or third, then T5 is okay.

 

[Unarce]

I like the spread of T5's, or fluorescents in general. You won't get as many shaded spots that you would with MH.

As far as energy consumption, there are plenty of arguments. The benefit of T5's, are met only when used with the individual bulb reflectors like the Tek Lights. They maximize the output of the thin bulbs by focusing completely downwards with the least restrike. This is why some claim they are nearly as efficient as MH.

I do believe, however, that MH still gives you the highest PAR, watt for watt. To me, this means you can get away with less power consumption, with a much shorter photoperiod, compared to just T5's (i.e. MH for 4-6 hrs, perhaps with actinics on for a couple hours longer).

Your other concern was heat. I also sometimes wonder about this argument, too. Although, T5 bulbs don't run as hot as MH, multiple bulbs aren't going to make much of a difference. T5's also, are set much closer to the water surface than MH because of intensity, so there's not much air flowing between the two.

I guess my last argument would be...how could anyone give up those gorgeous shimmer lines :lol:

 

[Oceans Ferevh]

you two are the best really thanks for responding so quick!

It's a hard call. If I stick with my MH I won't have the option of a dawn dusk period because I have Aqua Medic Pendants. No actinic.

That's boring. Plus I'd be stuck with the stock 20K bulbs for another 7 mo. because I couldn't justify two new $$$ bulbs to the hubby.

It's so BLUE!!!

but I could easily use the pendants on the 90G bowfront later and keep any coral. I still wouldn't have a dawn and dusk period though.

I would have a D & D period with the T-5 fixture. But buying the hood is another expense. Plus I would have to fiddle around with it later and spend more $ to overdrive the bulbs on my 90G.

Plus, I wouldn't have those lovely glitter lines :wink:

What is involved with overdriving a T-5 bulb? Is it just hooking up another more powerful ballast? Is it for the whole system or a certain amount of bulbs?

 

[LA-Lawman]

I have owned just about every lighting option out there. My garage is a boneyard of aquarium equip....

over the years my heart and corals lean toward MH. But i use true VHO actinincs....

I run 14k phoenix' and love them . DE bulbs are the way to go.

I know the aquamedic fixtures are nice, sleek, and pretty to look at. I bought a PFO rig. and wired icecaps to the setup. I have never regretted it. I have an original VHO ballast that runs to this day. I would also consider PFO or coralvue ballasts.....

My opinion doesn't weigh as much as the heavy hitters do [Len and unarce] but just another few cents in the pail.....

 

[Anonymous]

Ben, do you have pics of your tank? I'm considering going 14k Phoenix instead of the 20k I have now b/c I now have 156w of T5 actinic on the tank.

I'm interested to see the coloration of the corals under the 14ks as opposed to 20k. I have 150w DE, btw.

Thanks.

Peace,

Chip

 

[Anonymous]

My opinion doesn't weigh as much as the heavy hitters do [Len and unarce] but just another few cents in the pail.....

Your opinion certainly weighs as much as Karl's, because we have photo proof that Karl actually HAS a tank.

Len, however, I'm still convinced is lying to all of RDO. He has no tank...there are no pictures to back up his claim.

Peace,

Chip

 

[Anonymous]

Depends what you want in your tank. I have a softie only (well 99%) and have 4-54wT5s and some actinic lighting over it. Absolutely love the uniform color over the whole thing, and the tank is 24" deep too! Now if I had SPS in the tank I would not go that route, damn the energy costs.

I'm with Karl in that t5s give a more uniform light over the whole tank but that does come at the expense of intensity. Think of it this way, you have 54watts over a 5/8" x 48" space, vs 250w over a 1" x 1/2" space.

 

[LA-Lawman]

here it is....

http://homepage.mac.com/westsidecopper/ ... bum21.html

these are phoenix' about 5months old. I have just installed new ones. will take a pic in the next few and post it.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Ben...it looks like those are the bulbs I'm going to go with. Nice color, and I've heard great growth.

Peace,

Chip

 

[SnowManSnow]

I upgraded to a Hamilton 400w DE pendant for under $400. if your interested i bought them from www.exoticfish.com

b

 

[wetworx101]

There are a few things to clear up here...

-T5s penetrate just as well, if not better than halide.

-Halides dont create all that much heat if vented well...all that hot is concentrated at one point, if that hot air is dealt with (proper venting/open top) there is no problem.

-A 6-8 bulb tek unit will run a 65g just fine, but if you plan on upgrading to a 90 down the road, thats a 4' tank, and a 4' fixture would be a better idea.

-T5s, if using comperable spectrums, will produce just as much if not more PAR as halide.

-keep in mind, Icecaps are not running T5 bulbs within spec, and if you overdrive your bulbs (3' 39 watt bulbs get run at something like 60 watts) you had better have a beefy fan & cooling system to prevent the bulbs from burning too hot. Phosphor based bulbs mean heat = death.

I hear the pain...65g tanks are a PITA to light...just get the 90g now and get on with it if you can. 65g is wide enough to need two halides (well, not really, but that crappy cross brace makes it so), but barely needs more than the power of one. Its deep enough that a 250wattDE is a good idea...but what do you do...put it on one side?...its not like you really need two of them over a 65g. Thats enough for a 75g, or a 90.

The best option is T5s for this reason, IMO. OR, if you got the handy skills, removing the center brace and DIY eurobrace modding the tank is a great option. Just take two 1/2" strips of glass, 34-35" wide (whatever fits in between the sides inside the front panel), and 2" thick, and silicone them to the front and back glass panels underneath the existing plastic trim. Then remove the plastic cross brace with a dremel, or a saw and sandpaper, etc. This will leave the center open, and then I would go anead and use a single halide...a 250 or 400 watter (A couple/few T5s for blue and filling in the ends if you desire).

 

[kwirky]

I just bought a 4', 8 bulb teklight fixture from sunlight supply. this bugger's SO bright, you cannot look at it. HO T5's with proper Tek reflectors compare to 250W metal halides, and sometimes even better penetration, considering you don't have the dark areas mentioned earlier. I run my lights about 2" from the water surface, and the water jumps to 2 degrees higher once they've run for about an hour, then cool back to normal towards the end of their daily run. I don't have any fans in use ATM, just leaving the fixture to it's own convection.

I wrote a review for the fixture I got at:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26819[/url]

 

[ChrisRD]

I think T-5s are great, but personally I don't see them as being comparable to halides. IMO there is a LOT of hype and misinformation going around about them these days - particularly on internet message boards. It reminds me of the claims that were being made when PCs were first getting popular... ...or the DE vs. Mogul halide thing...

FWIW, more of my $0.02 on the topic here:
http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... 317#977317

JMO of course...

 

[K9coral]

MH, not reading any of the above, answer based strictly on the title of the post per my experience.

 

[Anonymous]

I have to go with MH as well. I have seen many tanks with MH and many with t5. As was already mentioned, t5s have a better spread, but the intensity of the MH is far better IMO and there is something to be said for shimmer lines as well. Not only do they look nice IMO, but each little shimmer line is a huge burst of light as it passes over the corals. Think magnifying glass and the ant. Very intense very brief shot of lightfor the corals. I am with Chris RD that I think there is a lot of hype associated with the T5. All the claims of PAR readings being as good as MH but I haven't seen an honest research about them. All the examples I have seen are of top of the line T5 against the crummiest MH and bulb. Just my .02. I just prefer the MH.

 

[Anonymous]

MH, for reasons Ranger and others already stated above.

 

[reefreef]

I beleive a good t5s unit will give you more than enough light for many hard corals.
Metal halides are bright under the bulb, however on the sides they are about the same as a t5.

check out Iwans tank. uses only t5s and he has hard corals down low.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...26d42&threadid=700454&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

There are many others like his that also only use t5s.

The only thing i did not like about t5s is that you dont get the glitter lines and some of the t5 lighting looks unnatural.

 

[willfong1]

Would anyone know where or how I could purchase a 30" T5 setup? Or does this size even exist?
I am asking because I own an All Glass 56Gal tank which measures 30"Wx18"Dx24"Tall. Would the depth of the tank be an issue also?

Thanks!

 

[ChrisRD]

I believe they're only available in 24", 36", 48" and 60" versions.