Help me circulate a 9 foot tank given plans and restraints?

[Kevin207]

Now that the tank is ordered, they are about to build it and want final confirmation on any holes to be cut, so I have a second chance to make up my (darn?) mind.

I don't think I want to go for the noise of a surge bucket (but could add it later if desired) so I am going for a second round on circulation ideas rather than bump the first round.

I asked about this in August (http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=91391&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=), and have final plans now set for the tank layout now that might determine the plan for circulation.

PLANS:
-The tank is 9 feet long by 30" high by 23" front to back
-Here is a picture:
http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... highlight=
-We are going to put two overflow boxes in: one in the back left corner and one in the back right corner.
-The live rock will hide the overflows, and will then spill down from these back corners to a valley in the middle of the tank so that you can see through the middle of the tank. Kinda like this (but with more gradual slopes and 8"+ of live rock at the base of the valley):
|\__/|

RESTRAINTS:
-I can NOT cut holes in the middle of the tank unless on the bottom for a closed loop since the tank will be seen from both front and back
-I can NOT mount a VorTech on the right side since tank is right against a stone chimney.

RECOMMENDATIONS?:
Should I put extra holes in the overflow for closed loops other than the sump sends/returns (maybe one per overlow)?

I was not planning on any other holes for circulation, instead relying on things like wavyseas (and vortech's at one end since no outside space at the other end).
Am I being dumb dee dumb dumb?
If so where would you put the holes given the plans and restraints listed above?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide since they will want to cut these holes if any in the next few days.
-Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

As I see it you have two choices:
1. In-tank: Go for Powerhead-based circulation, i.e. Tunze/Vortech combo.
2. Out-of-Tank: Go with a closed loop

If you choose the closed loop, then you don't need to worry much about drilling holes. You'd only need 2 to feed the CL pump. The CL outputs would be from a manifold above the tank.

 

[Anonymous]

What I would do, is bring up all my sump plumbing from one side of the tank and come down manifold style above the tank (using black flexy tube of course so you can hopefully disguise it). Drilling holes in the bottom of a perfectly good tank seems like a waste... especially if you don't have a definate plan for where your rockscaping will be.

 

[fungia]

i agree about the tunze or vortech suggestion. it is the easiest way to get very good flow, my opinion is the flow from these prop pumps are better then any closed loop and it is easier to install too. they will cost more money since you will probably need 4 pumps but it is what i would do.

 

[SnowManSnow]

IMO Tunze STREAMS are the best powerhead type circulation money can buy. At only 9 ft, you could use one to shoot the entire lenght of the tank, and another to go the other way.

B

 

[das75]

I find pictures help for ideas. For CL layouts check the WaterPix section at Oceansmotions

http://www.oceansmotions.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=10&sid=0e841ef459f714c8f9dadd29faa01764

 

[dbsherwood]

I wouldn't drill the tank. My past big tank (8'x30"x36") had two closed loops on it, and the water directions were never quite right for the aquascaping because we had to drill the bulkheads before we put in the rock. More importantly, one of the bulkheads, even while appearing to be good, slowly leaked salt (i.e. super super slow water drip) and there was no way to take off the bulkhead and reseal it without draining the whole tank.

When I did my new tank (8x4x3) I used an overflow on one side and the only bulkheads are in the overflow. Furthermore, if you can, I'd recommend that if you don't have wall space to run your pipes that you create a dry box in the overflow so that you only have to put bulkheads on the drain pipes. It gives you more room to fit stuff such as electrical wiring, ventilation piping, etc. Then again, my situation might be a little different because my tank is exposed on all sides.

I also use the Oceans Motions, which is good. I had the guy custom make a two way for me that I've put eductors on to get cross tank (lengthwise) flow.

I hope this helps, and good luck!

 

[ReefTiger]

I'd get a tunze wavebox for the side by the chimney, and then a CL. I'd try not to have powerheads. The wavebox looks pretty clean and would give nice movement to a 9 ft tank.

 

[Anonymous]

btw dbsherwood, seeing that beautiful Blonde Naso in your avatar and your tank descript... you have to point me towards some pictures

 

[Kevin207]

Thanks for all the great input so far. I am feeling better about potentially not drilling extra holes in the tank (only the sump outlets/inlets in the overflows).

I think the idea of having a few vortecs on the left side and some sort of tunze apparatus on the chimney side might work nicely.
Instead of the tunze, I do have the opportunity to put some plumbing in the wall that reveals only about 6 to 7 feet of the 9' tank on the other viewable side. This would allow me about 6 inches to 1.5 feet next to the chimney to put some plumbing in the partition so I could get a loop coming in through the top of the waterline if desired.