So Im having my 75 drilled tommorrow so I can add a sump. Im tired of looking into my display and seeing equipment. So assuming my lfs doesnt crack the tank while drilling (yes they so comfortingly said its not their fault if it cracks) what would be a good simple sump design for me and do you have any advice. It will be on my 75 gallon rectangle 4 foot tank. I cant fit my 55 gallon under it unfortunatly so I;ll try and fir my 40 gal under.
Advice for my first sump
- Thread starter blackcloudmedia
- Start date
Melevs site is where I got all my DIY info on building my own acrylic sump. I cant wait till I get my material on wednesday. Ill build it next weekend. In anycase in the past I have always used glass tanks like 20L's. I would either buy sheets of acrylic from HD and try to silicone it in (silicone doesnt stick to acrylic but it will stick to the glass so it works good enough) or buy glass picture frame glass from home depot. They also sell a glass cutter for 6$ that you can score and snap the glass and silicone your baffles in place.
Just be sure which ever tank you as a sump use you keep the water level low enough so in a power outage the water coming from the tank wont overflow the sump.
Where are they drilling the 75? Back panel I am assuming?
Just be sure which ever tank you as a sump use you keep the water level low enough so in a power outage the water coming from the tank wont overflow the sump.
Where are they drilling the 75? Back panel I am assuming?
I talked to one of the guys at Robs Reef (not sure if Rob's still a member here) and came up with the idea to drill the top two corners. See pic below. I will use an L insert pointed to the sky. The water line will go up to the insert then flow into the sump. It shouldnt be too noisy since there will be two holes and its only a 75 so the flow rate wont be really high. If anything it would be a draining sound which would be drouned out by my tv most of the time.
I decided on using my 55 gallon tank as the sump. That will add a total system volume of 130 gallons plus the one gallon in pipes. That was a great idea of using picture glass as baffles.
I decided on using my 55 gallon tank as the sump. That will add a total system volume of 130 gallons plus the one gallon in pipes. That was a great idea of using picture glass as baffles.
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The problem I see with two tees for overflows is that your surface area for skimming won't be very large. In an ideal situation you would have an overflow that spanned the entire length of the tank--that way you get a very thin layer of surface water going into the drain in order to target the surface "scum" that collects there. It will also minimize the noise.
I have two points of advice for the sump...
1) Minimize the flow going through it. For a 75 gallon tank, a return pump that actually puts out 300-400 gph after head and friction loss would be more than adequate. Create most of your water flow within the tank via powerheads/closed loops (somewhere around 20 times the tank volume per hour is a good starting point) and turn over the tank volume from the sump just a few times per hour. This will minimize noise, energy usage, and issues with micro bubbles.
2) Don't go crazy trying to overdesign the sump right off the bat. Keep it simple and easy to reconfigure. It is almost a guarantee that you will want to add new or larger equipment down the line that may not fit in with an existing permanent baffle. Removable baffles can be made by using cut glass and trimming them with rubber-they make a nearly waterproof but non-permanent seal. Filter socks on drain lines or around pumps can eliminate the need for baffles completely but they will need to be cleaned regularly. Always remember to make them easy to access for removal and replacement.
I have two points of advice for the sump...
1) Minimize the flow going through it. For a 75 gallon tank, a return pump that actually puts out 300-400 gph after head and friction loss would be more than adequate. Create most of your water flow within the tank via powerheads/closed loops (somewhere around 20 times the tank volume per hour is a good starting point) and turn over the tank volume from the sump just a few times per hour. This will minimize noise, energy usage, and issues with micro bubbles.
2) Don't go crazy trying to overdesign the sump right off the bat. Keep it simple and easy to reconfigure. It is almost a guarantee that you will want to add new or larger equipment down the line that may not fit in with an existing permanent baffle. Removable baffles can be made by using cut glass and trimming them with rubber-they make a nearly waterproof but non-permanent seal. Filter socks on drain lines or around pumps can eliminate the need for baffles completely but they will need to be cleaned regularly. Always remember to make them easy to access for removal and replacement.
Cool thanks Matt. I always listen to advice from those with a cool pic. Jk. Unfortunately my tanks stand it too narrow (depth wise) to fit a good rubbermaid or even tank into. I could fir a ten gal in there but I wanted more than a 10 gal sump. So Im gonna put my 55 behind the stand. It may sound tacky but Im on a budget and it would be hidden anyways.
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By the way Ill go ahead and hijack my own thread here I found a cool acrylics website that has reasonable prices. We dont have a plastics shop here in Jacksonville that I know of 
http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merc ... e_Code=DPI
http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merc ... e_Code=DPI
As far as baffles go, just use lexan and aquarium silicon. I realize that silicon doesn't really BOND lexan to glass, but I've made 2 sumps this way and it works great and nothing as ever "detached" while in operation or anything.
Working with lexan (or most any other acrylic sheet) also gives you a lot more flexability that glass does. For instance, if the sheet you're trying to install is .08 inches too wide to fit into your sump, just sand it down until it works. If it's too high, cut it off.. To me it's just a lot easier to work with than glass is.
And yes silicon will hold it in place with no problem, unless you're putting it under some ungodly water weight or something.
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Working with lexan (or most any other acrylic sheet) also gives you a lot more flexability that glass does. For instance, if the sheet you're trying to install is .08 inches too wide to fit into your sump, just sand it down until it works. If it's too high, cut it off.. To me it's just a lot easier to work with than glass is.
And yes silicon will hold it in place with no problem, unless you're putting it under some ungodly water weight or something.
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lol I know my girlfriend cleans my room for me when she comes over Hey Im allowed I work and Im in school. Yea I thought about DIYing some baffles but I think Id like the extra room provided by not having them. I have plenty of time to make up my mind since it takes DAYS for my 50 gal/day RODI to fill up my tank(s) :lol:
Hey Im allowed I work and Im in school. Yea I thought about DIYing some baffles but I think Id like the extra room provided by not having them. I have plenty of time to make up my mind since it takes DAYS for my 50 gal/day RODI to fill up my tank(s) :lol:
Lol I know I was worried about that but I have long arms and I can reach around. PLus my electric piano is gonna be moved to a less moist region :lol: Unfortunately for me though this is the best place for me to put my tank. One problem though...I plugged in the 500 GPH pump and every ten seconds theres a loud...GARGLLE!!!! Then ten seconds of silence. THis is of course the water flowing down the pipes. Im guessing I can C clamp the water return line and maybe that will slow the water being returned to the display. Aside from that everythings peachy.
The noise is from air trapped in the lines going out of the tank, you make a sort of external durso or stockman standpipe to solve this noise issue. Look at the ones made by barr in the above pic I linked.
If you T it on the outside of the tank it should solve the noise. JME 8)
If you T it on the outside of the tank it should solve the noise. JME 8)
Maybe an Eastern Indigo Snake or a copperhead snake The latter is dangerous
check out http://www.floridasnakes.net/a-e.htm
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The latter is dangerous check out http://www.floridasnakes.net/a-e.htm
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