A
Len":1polz178 said:I use a litermeter III. I had a float switch fail on me once, and ever since then, I've used high quality dosing pumps. However, to top off the reservoir, you still need to use either a float switch connected to your RO, or add the water manually. That's about the only drawback I can think of. It should be noted though, that a float switch in a "sterile" FW reservoir is a lot less likely to fail then a float switch in "living" seawater.
I wanted to set something like that up but only wanted it to turn on every couple of days to fill 15-30 gallons at a time from the RO/DI unit. Can you recommend anything, Matt?Matt_":2bbpx7b8 said:Len":2bbpx7b8 said:I use a litermeter III. I had a float switch fail on me once, and ever since then, I've used high quality dosing pumps. However, to top off the reservoir, you still need to use either a float switch connected to your RO, or add the water manually. That's about the only drawback I can think of. It should be noted though, that a float switch in a "sterile" FW reservoir is a lot less likely to fail then a float switch in "living" seawater.
I would be hesitant to use a float switch or valve to fill the RO/DI reservoir because of the poor quality water production associated with membrane creep. Doing it manually is probably a bit of a pain, too. What you may consider is hooking up a water timer valve to open up the valve for longer durations, and couple it to a float valve inside the reservoir to ensure it doesn't overflow the reservoir.
Gilmour makes a really good quality water timer valve that you can find at Lowe's.
bleedingthought":x43yp2yg said:I wanted to set something like that up but only wanted it to turn on every couple of days to fill 15-30 gallons at a time from the RO/DI unit. Can you recommend anything, Matt?Matt_":x43yp2yg said:Len":x43yp2yg said:I use a litermeter III. I had a float switch fail on me once, and ever since then, I've used high quality dosing pumps. However, to top off the reservoir, you still need to use either a float switch connected to your RO, or add the water manually. That's about the only drawback I can think of. It should be noted though, that a float switch in a "sterile" FW reservoir is a lot less likely to fail then a float switch in "living" seawater.
I would be hesitant to use a float switch or valve to fill the RO/DI reservoir because of the poor quality water production associated with membrane creep. Doing it manually is probably a bit of a pain, too. What you may consider is hooking up a water timer valve to open up the valve for longer durations, and couple it to a float valve inside the reservoir to ensure it doesn't overflow the reservoir.
Gilmour makes a really good quality water timer valve that you can find at Lowe's.![]()
Ok, cool. I'll have to check it out, then. Thanks!Matt_":3law221q said:bleedingthought":3law221q said:I wanted to set something like that up but only wanted it to turn on every couple of days to fill 15-30 gallons at a time from the RO/DI unit. Can you recommend anything, Matt?Matt_":3law221q said:Len":3law221q said:I use a litermeter III. I had a float switch fail on me once, and ever since then, I've used high quality dosing pumps. However, to top off the reservoir, you still need to use either a float switch connected to your RO, or add the water manually. That's about the only drawback I can think of. It should be noted though, that a float switch in a "sterile" FW reservoir is a lot less likely to fail then a float switch in "living" seawater.
I would be hesitant to use a float switch or valve to fill the RO/DI reservoir because of the poor quality water production associated with membrane creep. Doing it manually is probably a bit of a pain, too. What you may consider is hooking up a water timer valve to open up the valve for longer durations, and couple it to a float valve inside the reservoir to ensure it doesn't overflow the reservoir.
Gilmour makes a really good quality water timer valve that you can find at Lowe's.![]()
The Gilmour timer is digital so it can go by days. You could program it to open up for, say, 12 hours on every Tuesday and Friday, or 6 hours every other day.
The only annoyance is that the water timer has garden hose threads, so you will need to find reducers/adapters to get it to mate with your RO/DI plumbing. Nothing exotic, it will just look kind of weird and it means a trip to the LHS. I am sure there are more elegant solutions out there (solenoids on digital timers), but this one is cheap and easy.
dadstank":3e013lm0 said:so i just spent an hour in home depot trying to figure out how to get a 3/8" male to split, one end straight to the faucet, and the other to a 3/4" hose end for a simple garden hose doser. then from a 3/4" hose end back down to a 3/8" end that will accept my RO line....
i finally gave up and left. this will not be a simple DIY (for me), and it will have to wait as i have many more larger issues with my tank that need immediate tending.....[/img]
Nemo2007":1gecwm9p said:I user the Tunze osmoregulator. It uses a combination of an optical sensor, accurate within 2 mm, an emergency cutoff float for overflow protection, an audible alarm, led operation and warning lights, and reliable pump that also has the minimum on/off cycle timing described above. Its cheaper than the litemeter but still from a very reliable company. Replacement pumps should they ever fail are pnly $28 bucks. Everything you need but the reservoir is in one box. I got my resorvoir for 5-6 bucks from Target.