EVOLUTION IM30L EXT - May Day upgrade alert

evoIX_Reefer

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For the sump you can do 20 long diy sump kit from fijucube and for the lighting if i were you I'll go with 2 hydra 32 with ai rail kit

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

As far as lighting, I may just continue using my current light which is a 24" fixture but definitely enough PAR with ATI blue + with the LEDs sitting at 12" above water line.

When ready....
Ive had AI hydras before and prefer T5/led mixture if I use them. Which would put me around 700+ range.

I seen good reviews on the Kessil AP700 alone.

Wondering if a radion g5 is better to go with since they are retailed at the same range.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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Not 100% sure what I have planned for the IM20. I may turn it into my frag tank or sell it and buy a frag tank with overflow preferred but we'll see. Someone already looking to buy full setup so I'll let you know how it ends up.
 

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So there was a feedback on either MarineDepot or BRS that stated the Skimz Sumpro UP22 fit the APS NUVO stand without modification. It was a better option than a BASHEA sump that was thrown out there as another option.

Sadly.....The Skimz Sumpro does NOT fit without modification. It is long by maybe 5mm~. I didn't want to force the fit especially since I just paid 300$ for it. Fcuk that. I lined it up against the board that sits at the bottom and confirmed that it is just long and the board JUST fits.

Now I have to build a bottom to fit the space but the good news is I do have additional 2 x 4 lumber from other home projects that I can use. So no additional cost but a pain that the stand is so limited and no good sump options for the stand. If the stand allowed more internal space for a sump with no modifications, it would be a nice clean option while on sale. Pretty pricey but it is a nice option, light weight, aluminum so no rust, etc. So there are pluses but being a stand expected to house a sump and other reef equipment it isn't ideal.

I really wanted to make some type of water proofing possible with showerpan liner for extra peace of mind but I don't know if that is even a possibility with this stand.

Now, I just have to be extra careful and have a 100% fool proof plan.

Main concerns, skimmer overflowing, no external skimmer waste collector, no external equipment that can potentially leak, ensure no issues during power outages and no issues with ATO causing a huge leak.
 
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Geraud

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Thank you for detailling all the little things in your build, this is really what is useful about forums! Theory vs practice, and how to solve little problems we will encounter along the way.

On a side note, I hope more companies go the external route for their overflow. I am not a fan of bottom-drilled tanks and even less of the huge columns that go in the tanks: way more elegant to have an external overflow box, especially how small the internal sides have become.

All the best for your build!
 

evoIX_Reefer

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Thank you. I wanted to go detailed with this thread because there was so little information out about the external 30L from IM.

I searched everywhere r2r, RC, etc. Very little info about this tank. Hope, this helps someone in the future.


So the good news, I used 2x3 cut to 11.5" and placed them as support under the bottom provided board with rubber furniture feet to keep the feet off the ground.

This brought the bottom up almost flush to the bottom aluminum bars for the stand and able to seat my sump perfectly.

Pictures will be taken sooner or later.

Tank wont be coming in until Monday. UPS Freight confirmed.

Still deciding on my piping route and controller setup. Debating if its better to setup my electronics in a separate cabinet or just modify the stand even more. **leaning towards a separate electronics box

We'll see!
 

Geraud

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I am looking into their 40 EXT. I think these are all new models, hence the lack of reviews. What I am mostly curious about is the back: from the looks of it from the videos of the 2018 75 and 100 models, there is a glass pane in the back, with a U-shape cut at the top and then a black acrylic panel is glued to it, with the comb-like structure. Really curious about the details there.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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Yeah, it looks like a false wall with the overflow teeth cut for surface skimming. I havent seen any reviews of any issues with it so not too worried about that.

More worried about shipping and tank coming in cracked. I believe there were other manufactures in the past who did external overflows and had multiple problems with shipping causing cracks at the external overflow box as a weaker point than a glass tank already is. Extra padding around that area would need real care to ensure it doesnt break.

I'll find out on Monday.

Otherwise, others have complained in particular about the placement of the overflow for the 30L.

Since I am doing something a little different than others with a TV wall mount. I dont care too much about where it is.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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Still in process of setting up. Still need to put shower pan liner down before I am allowed to fill the tank.

Not done dry fitting PVC and making sure everything is set.

Then I can get water in and test before I swap everything over.

Waiting for remaining items to come in and will need to do my electrical cabinet in the future. Think I'll transfer everything and make that a future change.
 

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evoIX_Reefer

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Looks like caused a bacterial bloom and waiting for that to clear up.

No casualties yet but my dragon soul torch didnt look too happy.

Not 100% happy with the setup.

Need to swap out the control valve with a gate valve for better control.

Just made my DIY NOPOX - 1 Part Vinegar : 1 Part Vodka + RO/DI to reduce concentration of alcohol content in the vodka.

Used a 200mL bottom of smirnoff 80proof (link below), 125mL of Vinegar and ~80mL of RO/DI water. probably not the exact ratio it's supposed to be but close enough.


So dosing 2 part and NOPOX.
Running Carbon in reactor and hoping to control PO4 with NOPOX but when needed for ease of use. Drop PO4 with phosguard in media bag.
 

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evoIX_Reefer

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tank has been on and off. having to adjust a few things to get parameters in place. got PO4 down but went to 0 faster than I anticipated so hopefully that doesn't bring on any unwanted issues. changed to on for X hours and alternating days. with diy nopox running, hopefully it can go up a bit and stay steady. fed some reef roids which usually causes a small spike in PO4 so I'll have to test to see if I get a little higher reading today.

**switched reactor to GFO and bagged carbon in with the filter socks.

To reduce risk of skimmer ever going crazy and causing a flood, I put in a cup and set get a quarter cup daily. I am running skimmate wet based on recommendations I've seen online when dosing NOPOX. Getting more tea color vs darker skimmate but hoping to reduce the mulm I am seeing accumulate on the filter socks. Hasn't gone away and only dosing 1mL of NOPOX so not sure if it will ever go away without reducing NOPOX even further. I'll live with it. Replacing socks due to reduced flow due to this every weekend~ or a little sooner if I notice it while clearing out the skimmate. I actively use a turkey baster to push some flow through it. Moved skimmer inlet towards the opening of the filter socks.

Otherwise, bought a jawbreaker shroom today. Thanks to KIMILKWON!
 
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evoIX_Reefer

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Been awhile. correcting and stabilizing parameters is such a pain.

Think I've gotten it down pretty well.

alk - 8.3
ca - 425-440
mag - 1250~
phos - .04
NO3 - near 0 but looking to bring it up

With parameters in check, Finally got my hands on some SPS to try to see how it goes. Thanks to Bonomo for a great deal&trade.

SPS added:

  • RR Dday
  • Lady in Pink
  • Rainbow Milli
  • Neon Green Milli
  • Aussie Tieera Del Fuego
  • Voodoo Magic
  • Red Dragon
  • Indo Tenius
  • Pink Lemonade
  • Fox Flame
 

evoIX_Reefer

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Yet another run for corals.

POTO MINION PARTY GONI

POTO SEXY BEAST

POTO GWEN STEPHANI

POTO DRAGON FIRE
 

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evoIX_Reefer

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**Started dosing NYOS NO3 as multiple tests have come up undetectable and would like to up NO3 to color up corals.

Phos steady at .029 and .04 for the past 2-3~weeks now.

Adding ME Coral Iodine to see if this helps generate some color as well.

Tried to add AB Special but too white and color blend with light was terrible. I'll end up trying coral plus or purple plus next.


Dosing:

7ml ALK - ALK has drifted from 8.3-8.7 from week to week.
5ml CA - CA has drifted from 450>1 week>444>510 (think this was a bad test)>24hrs>434
1ml Mag - Mag upped from 1280>1350 and now trying to stablize it here.
4ml Red Sea AB+ - Won't see anything major until I see more growth than I have in the past few months.
1 drop of NYOS Potassium Nitrate - 35total volume so trying to go under recommended volume until I can start detecting Nitrates and try to go from there. Stopped DIY NOPOX
1 drop of ME Coral Iodine - I have only seen good things from people dosing I and in moderation. Plan to just keep Iodine dosing at 1 drop every 2-3 days since I am not testing for it.

Purchased a supplement light (AI Prime 16HD) to remove shadowing caused by the use of a 24" fixture on a 36" tank at the edges of my tank and get better par.. Thought I could get away with it!

Finally, increased my flow in tank to about double what it was before. Some corals don't seem happy with the changes. Especially jawbreaker and some zoas.

Hopefully, they'll adjust and get thriving. SPS are doing well and so far staying true to color.
Dragon Soul Torch is brightening up a lot compared to a few weeks ago.
UC Cotton Candy torch tips are now distinct pink and getting closer to a neon green body.
Bicolor tip Torch finally showing it is "bicolor" with some tips coming out with more a pinkish hue and the others a deep blue. Body color is a lot darker than expected but it is what it is..

Still waiting for my 21tails to turn around and give me that crazy yellow color but it is extending again about 3-4" so happy with the tentacle extensions.

GMK staying open and looking good.

Now, have to test parameters tomorrow to make sure everything staying stable since last checkup.

come on SPS!
 

evoIX_Reefer

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If you have no clue what your PAR reading are and having issues with coral, I highly recommend getting a PAR reading.

I was WAY off and likely my cause for issues. I was running really low par at multiple spots.

I was contributing it to low to undetectable NO3 which is likely another reason but found <100 par at some areas.

Had to drop my fixture 2.5" adjust my color preference and found what worked best at spots I intend to place my corals.

Found that my fixture is really terrible with light spread and bad hot spot where the LEDs 70-100+ Par in many places.

Shaded areas by rockwork really kill PAR. Under a rock will yield like 30-60PAR and right next to it in light will double at the sandbed.

I was trying to stay within a price range / budget and will upgrade lights in the future. Right now, just added the AI Prime. I am hoping to move over to RADION xr15s in the future when the budget allows it.

**Par tested with Apogee MQ510
 

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Geraud

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Depending on what you want to keep, you might want to go directly to an XR30. I had a XR15 on my 25 gallon cube, and the 15 was just not enough (precisely by measuring PAR) for SPS and clams unless they were very high up. On the other hand, now I do not have anything under 175 on the sand bed, which means I cannot keep some of the LPS I wanted. (16 inches or so of water)
 

evoIX_Reefer

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I was trying to keep par around 250 in most areas-max desired 400 with only a few spots that I saw 330-360. at multiple locations where I plan on keeping SPS. I left space for Torches seen with 150~ PAR which the AI achieves so that was perfect. Lower light acros I can place on top where I was seeing 200-225 from the AI Prime.

Biggest thing I don't like is the back wall where I hoped to keep acros floating showing only 190-210 which is on the low end. That's even raising to ~4" from water surface.

Anyone think this will cut it?
 

Geraud

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On my back wall I have a strawberry shortcake and it is doing meh. So I ended up putting a ton of different Monti caps and they are very happy there
Plus it makes some type of natural background, which enhances the colors of the Acros in front of it.

The problem with back walls is that since the light rays are at a higher angle, you do not get as much PAR there.
 
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