QT Process

[bvega789]

So i used ruby reef rally and kick ick ich pro in my DT.

for the most part Rallys seemed to have worked.

kick ich pro seemed to have increased rather than decrease ich.

So now i have started my entire livestock QT process.

BUT I have a few questions:

1. have the QT Bin running in hypo-salinity, should i just add my livestock to it directly or should i be gradually decreasing my salinty to hypo??

i have tangs, clowns, anthias, gobies, eels, royal gramma, wrasse and a trigger

2. Should the disease/parasite resistant fish go in QT too????

3. Which one of these meds should i use or which ones work best together???


Hello Sir @Humblefish

 

[BryanD]

Oh I used the bottom two

 

[BryanD]

Everything had bubbles on it lol

 

[bvega789]

Everything had bubbles on it lol

Lmfao sheesh

 

[bvega789]

Is hypo really worth doing if there hypo resistant ich??

 

[Humblefish]

Is hypo really worth doing if there hypo resistant ich??

I'm not a fan of hypo. Not because I'm afraid of hypo resistant strains of Ich (which are probably rare). But because it is difficult to execute properly without using a perfectly calibrated refractometer and an ATO. If the SG ticks up even slightly past 1.009, all bets are off.

 

[bvega789]

I'm not a fan of hypo. Not because I'm afraid of hypo resistant strains of Ich (which are probably rare). But because it is difficult to execute properly without using a perfectly calibrated refractometer and an ATO. If the SG ticks up even slightly past 1.009, all bets are off.

Ok understood thanks i wont be using it

 

[marrone]

I'm not a fan of hypo. Not because I'm afraid of hypo resistant strains of Ich (which are probably rare). But because it is difficult to execute properly without using a perfectly calibrated refractometer and an ATO. If the SG ticks up even slightly past 1.009, all bets are off.

Hypo works very well and there is no reason not to use it. If you have a refractometer just calibrated and make sure that it's accurate. You also want to keep it a little more under 1.009, I usually keep it around 1.006 -1.007, which takes away any issue of it moving over 1.009, and doesn't cause any problem with the fish.

 

[bvega789]

Hypo works very well and there is no reason not to use it. If you have a refractometer just calibrated and make sure that it's accurate. You also want to keep it a little more under 1.009, I usually keep it around 1.006 -1.007, which takes away any issue of it moving over 1.009, and doesn't cause any problem with the fish.

Nice ill reconsider then

 

[bvega789]

Hypo works very well and there is no reason not to use it. If you have a refractometer just calibrated and make sure that it's accurate. You also want to keep it a little more under 1.009, I usually keep it around 1.006 -1.007, which takes away any issue of it moving over 1.009, and doesn't cause any problem with the fish.

What can i use to medicate my snowflake eel or is he resistant to parasites and diseases???

i also have a pearly jawfish, bluethroat female
Green spotted mandarin, engineer goby, golden head goby,


I have cuparmine, copper, paraguard, lifeguard tablets, and prazipro

 

[Rebels23]

Whenever I have run hypo, I've kept it a little below 1.009 to give myself a little room for error (evaporation) just like Marrone. I managed the top off daily though to ensure it never goes above 1.009 (I used masking tape for water line). I like it for flukes since the duration is not long at all and you get the eggs also in about a week. Given prazi is easy to run, hypo may be more work than some would like to take on.

Eels can contract parasites but I think it is more on the rarer side? Mandarins are also not as likely due to their thick slime coat. Reasons Mandarins perish in people's tanks are more likely due to not having enough for them to eat as opposed to disease.

 

[bvega789]

Whenever I have run hypo, I've kept it a little below 1.009 to give myself a little room for error (evaporation) just like Marrone. I managed the top off daily though to ensure it never got above 1.009 (I used making tape for water line). I like it for flukes since the duration is not long at all and you get the eggs also in about a week. Given prazi is easy to run, hypo may be more work than some would like to take on.

Eels can contract parasites but I think it is more on the rarer side? Mandarins are also not as likely due to their thick slime coat. Reasons Mandarins perish in people's tanks are more likely due to having enough for them to eat as opposed to disease.

Thank you so how dows hypo sound mixed with some prazi for all of my livestock??

instead of copper or cuparmine

would that cover all bases???

 

[Rebels23]

Thank you so how dows hypo sound mixed with some prazi for all of my livestock??

instead of copper or cuparmine

would that cover all bases???

I think running hypo and prazi is redundant. So I'd pick one. You could go all in with hypo for at least 30 days and that should take care of flukes and ich.

If you do copper, finish the copper treatment and then run the prazi (although I have run both at the same time.......but probably not recommended)

Of course, I'll let @Humblefish be the final say as the resident expert here

 

[bvega789]

I think running hypo and prazi is redundant. So I'd pick one. You could go all in with hypo for at least 30 days and that should take care of flukes and ich.

If you do copper, finish the copper treatment and then run the prazi (although I have run both at the same time.......but probably not recommended)

Of course, I'll let @Humblefish be the final say as the resident expert here

Ok cool so hypo and meds are a no go.
I think ima try hypo before i use any meds

 

[bvega789]

Update !!

so i completely dismanteled and destroyed it floating reef chasing three last fish smfh
But we are here now!!

I dont know if i want to just start all over for my DT water since it just looks like nasty dirty brown water!


now since it will be going fallow and i can connect up my sump back i will just have my corals, my snowflake eel, and two garden eels in the DT along with the CUC.

i have my cleaner shrimp and a few other CUC members in my 10g for my macro algae. I think i kight leave him in there since he may end up dinner for my eel left alone


i need to start a whole new rock/aquascape but should i take my snowflake out of the DT since he will think its his tank for month???

What should i do about the dirty water??? Should i just use refresh and waste away!?? Or start fresh with new water

HELP

And when performing hypo how much do i decrease daily???
Salinity is now at 1026

 

[bvega789]

Can Garden eels get ich?

 

[tsouth]

Update !!

so i completely dismanteled and destroyed it floating reef chasing three last fish smfh
But we are here now!!

I dont know if i want to just start all over for my DT water since it just looks like nasty dirty brown water!

now since it will be going fallow and i can connect up my sump back i will just have my corals, my snowflake eel, and two garden eels in the DT along with the CUC.

i have my cleaner shrimp and a few other CUC members in my 10g for my macro algae. I think i kight leave him in there since he may end up dinner for my eel left alone

i need to start a whole new rock/aquascape but should i take my snowflake out of the DT since he will think its his tank for month???

What should i do about the dirty water??? Should i just use refresh and waste away!?? Or start fresh with new water

HELP

And when performing hypo how much do i decrease daily???
Salinity is now at 1026

Yes an eel can be a host. No, I do not think the eel will take kindly to copper. @Humblefish or others should give their input too. I do not know what the protocol is for an eel.

You're already this far, I would highly encourage you to remove the eels from the display tank and leave it fallow for a minimum of 75+ days. It's very important you remove the eels. Corals and inverts can stay inside the display tank since they cannot host.

Your tank will settle down and clean itself once you hook the sump up and use some sort of mechanical filtration such as a filter pad or filter socks. Don't add any chemicals to the display tank. Just let it be and feed it like once a week so that your nitrates and phosphates don't bottom out which may cause dinoflagellates.

 

[bvega789]

Yes an eel can be a host. No, I do not think the eel will take kindly to copper. @Humblefish or others should give their input too. I do not know what the protocol is for an eel.

You're already this far, I would highly encourage you to remove the eels from the display tank and leave it fallow for a minimum of 75+ days. It's very important you remove the eels. Corals and inverts can stay inside the display tank since they cannot host.

Your tank will settle down and clean itself once you hook the sump up and use some sort of mechanical filtration such as a filter pad or filter socks. Don't add any chemicals to the display tank. Just let it be and feed it like once a week so that your nitrates and phosphates don't bottom out which may cause dinoflagellates.

Ok cool

 

[marrone]

Eels can take copper, and if you're going to go fallow you going to need to remove all the fish from the tank. The bigger problem with the Garden Eels is that you're going to need to setup a tank/container with a sand bed for them.

If you're treating for Ich you should do either Copper or Hypo but not both, also if you're treating for Ich then you don't need to use Prazi-Pro, which for the most part is a weak product to begin with and isn't going to help with getting rid of Ich. As for your MT, just like it fallow for about 2 months and that should take care of the Ich that is in the tank.

 

[bvega789]

Eels can take copper, and if you're going to go fallow you going to need to remove all the fish from the tank. The bigger problem with the Garden Eels is that you're going to need to setup a tank/container with a sand bed for them.

If you're treating for Ich you should do either Copper or Hypo but not both, also if you're treating for Ich then you don't need to use Prazi-Pro, which for the most part is a weak product to begin with and isn't going to help with getting rid of Ich. As for your MT, just like it fallow for about 2 months and that should take care of the Ich that is in the tank.

Ok will do! Which is more effective but safe at the same time?