How to eliminate red slime algae (cyno)?

dennis

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Sorry guys I was away for a-while. In the meantime my system is an up grade from a 30g to a 72g. which was running for about 3+yrs prior. Probaly it's a new tank syndrome i am experienceing. I will list my equipment and water parameters later when I get my self organized. I am very grateful for everyones input thank you.
 

reefman

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Chiefmcfuz said:
Improve the circulation over the areas where you have the Cyano, Siphon some of it out and try to get your water back in check. PH needs to come down a tad, but it has to be slowly or that jump will shock the hell out of your livestock. Tell us what your water params are.
listen to chief. he knows whats hes talkin bout.
 

fritz

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Rich I didn't mean my whole comment towards you, just the skimmers don't remove phosphate part.

Cyano and all nusaince algae are signs of a flaw somewhere. If you have no nuisance algae then you're doing something right. No two tanks or setups are the same and what works great for you, may cause a disaster for me (like running a tank skimmerless).

It really does come down to good husbandry.
 

Sean

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Manhattan reef members posses an extraordinary experience, knowledge and skill in their craft. The amount of advice and number of suggestions we make in solving all the dilemmas presented is overwhelming.

Before we can come up with a solution we need to further explore the situation. For example
temperature
P.H.
alk
SG
Phosphate
Silicate
Nitrate
water flow
Filtration
ect. ect.

in other words there are a multitude of factors that can create problems in the aquarium. A good investigation takes everything into consideration by asking all the pertinent questions.

then once we see the whole picture we can develop a solution for the problem.

I understand how people are talking from there own experience and enthusiasm but what works for you will not necessarily work for everyone. Just because you have all the latest gadgetry doesn't mean everyone else need to have it to keep there animals alive. Lets sit back and wait and see the test results, full understanding of his system and husbandry technique before we jump to conclusions.



I just think this turtle is so cute:turtle:
 

Tonyscoots84

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hey sean i think the :bunnies: are better.... lmaoo :backtotop

waiting on the list that sean posted to be answered.... then we can figure out wut is going on with the tank....
 

fritz

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dennis said:
Sorry guys I was away for a-while. In the meantime my system is an up grade from a 30g to a 72g. which was running for about 3+yrs prior. Probaly it's a new tank syndrome i am experienceing. I will list my equipment and water parameters later when I get my self organized. I am very grateful for everyones input thank you.
I think it's just new tank syndrome.
 

dennis

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ph = 8.4+
Alk = high
Temp = 75
SG = 1.023
Nitrate = 0
Phosphate 0.0 - 5.0mg/l = 0

those arethe water parameters i am able to test for at this time. I'm a bit confused with my phosphate readings, i expected it to be higher I had the test kit for about a year (Hagen PO4 test kit), how can PO4 be 0?
 

Sean

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here's a good article on phosphates
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm

I've never used hagen to test for phosphates. I can say that just because your test kit says 0 doesn't mean you don't have phospates in the water. The summary of the article might clarify this better then I can.


Issues involving phosphorus can be among the most difficult to diagnose in a reef tank, especially if the live rock and sand have been exposed to very high phosphate levels and may be acting as a phosphate reservoir. Fortunately, there are steps that can be taken even in the absence of any algae problem that will benefit reef tanks in a variety of ways, not the least of which is reduction of phosphate levels. All reef keepers, and especially those designing new systems, should have a clear idea in mind about how they expect phosphorus to be exported from their system. If allowed to find its own way out, it will more than likely end up in microalgae that the reef keeper is constantly battling
 

alrha

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could be the algae is using up your PO4, so it is not being detected in your water.
i wouldnt raise the pH much higher than 8.4
your temp and SG seems a little low (but i dont think this affects your algae growth)
Your actual Alk levels would be helpful
 

Sean

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dennis said:
ph = 8.4+
Alk = high
Temp = 75
SG = 1.023
Nitrate = 0
Phosphate 0.0 - 5.0mg/l = 0

those arethe water parameters i am able to test for at this time. I'm a bit confused with my phosphate readings, i expected it to be higher I had the test kit for about a year (Hagen PO4 test kit), how can PO4 be 0?

this is good but
what size tank(I think you said a 72)
what type of lighting
what type of filtration
do you use tap water
how oftenand how much do you feed
how many fish do you have
what are you using for circulation
any other info would help
 

dennis

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72g Bow
Two 96w power compact
In Sump - (LR, bio balls, refugum, Turboflitor 1000 Multi)
RO/DI
5 fishes
Circulation - 802Aqua Clear, Quiet One 3000 Return pump
 

Sean

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do you use carbon or any phosphate removng agents?
have you ever used tap water in your aquarium?
Hows the growth in the refugium
does the skimmer collect a lot of yumy stuff?
 

dennis

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I use carbon to up until I upgraded to the 72g, and I am not using any phosphate removng agents. But i am about to start using kent marine phsphate sponge and carbon to see if it helps. refugum is OK and i have never used tap water in the upgraded system. the skimmer does fairly well but i had to make a few alterations. Sorry but i am off to work will resume later thanks alot.
 

alrha

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jackson6745 said:
Where are you reading that skimming doesn't remove phosphates? I would like to read that article?
from Phosphorus: Algae?s Best Friend by RANDY HOLMES-FARLEY:
"Export of organic phosphates is the major way that skimming can result in reduced inorganic orthophosphate levels in a tank. Orthophosphate ions themselves are not significantly removed via skimmate (since they do not adsorb onto an air/water interface), but organic phosphates can be removed before they are converted into inorganic orthophosphate."
 

Chris5

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I have had some red slime show up on my rocks lately and i have positioned one of my extra power heads in the sand area in the corner (that helped with that side) and have put some cabon in my sump and have noticed over the past week it has held back the slime from multiplying and looks like its subsiding now alittle each day...also if you put corals over the areas that are suspectable to red slime it cant compete over the space and will not reside there, dunno if it will try and cover corals but havent had any problems with that...:snail:

also try and limit feedings bc i have noticed if you feed in one area and food falls to a certain rock or sand area and does not get eatin it will create a red slime patch in that spot and thats how it all begins.
 
Last edited:

lfsmarineguy

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Cyano isn't a true algae. Nor is it a bacteria. It's both. Cyano (in all the color variants) is believed to be the "missing link" between algaes and bacterias. It's somewhat photosynthetic as evidenced by it's oxygen production (bubbles in the mat). It also grows and feeds like bacteria, on pockets of nutrients. Cyano is never your problem when it manifests itself in your system, it is merely a symptom. Usually when I hear about cyano it's either low flow or a crappy skimmer. There are other causes but you can stand in front of your tank and ultimately you will have to figure it out. When any of my tanks get an outbreak in the store for whatever reason (usually a shipment of rock or a lot of new livestock) I use Red Slime Remover. You can say what you want but within 24-72 hours you will have no trace of red slime in your tank. Be very careful with the dose and keep your skimmer going because it will drop the dissolved oxygen level in the tank and possibly mess with PH for a few hours. I have never had a coral or fish die from using it. It is just an antibiotic and it will help you get this under control. However, just like any antibiotic you have to make sure you kill whatever it is you are fighting or you can end up with a resilient strain of super cyano and then you might have to sleep with one eye open.
 

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