AsianChris

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Chester, NY
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I've been reading up on quarantine tanks and I'm thinking about doing it. And if I do it, I would like to start on it soon as my tanks are almost done cycling

My only problem, im not sure what to get and I'm trying to keep a tight budget now. I really don't need to be spending a ton of money on another tank

I know I need a tank, a "filter" system, light, and hiding places for the fish. that's as far as I got.

My questions are should I get a 5, 10, or 15 gal tank? Should I get a cheap HOB filter system (and not use the carbon)? Desk light sufficient? should I listen and use PVC pipe for hiding places? Pretty much, I'm not sure what to actually get...
 

ruz900

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just get a 10 or 20g tank depending on how many fish ur going to keep in your DP tank cause if you run into a problem like ich down the road you going to have put all of your fish in the 10 or 20 gallon tank as far as filter system just get a Aqueon QuietFlow Power Filters that what i use in my quarantine tanks.
 

KathyC

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Barnum Island
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The price you pay for a QT may equal the price of one fish. If you don't QT you can easily wipe out an entire tanks worth of fish...so how much is too much? Some food for thought!

You will need the following:
A tank based on the size of the fish you plan to buy
heater
a small air pump & air stone (like they use in FW tanks)
a HOB filter is fine (will need carbon to help keep the water clean, or to remove meds IF you need to medicate a fish) Please do not medicate a fish unless there is a clear reason to. A QT is to observe the fish for good health
a light is not a necessity, or you can use a FW strip light
a mesh cover is a good idea too as many fish are jumpers and a new home is stressful to a fish
Pcs of PVC pipe
 

pmoneyt

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brooklyn
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I have 2 20 gallon QT tanks just as Ruz600 said. I removed the carbon filter it came with and just bought sheets of filter material. I do a water change every 3 day butno more than 5 days of 10 gallons in each tank.

I used to medicate in the tanks but I no longer do that unless I have to. I freah water dip with quickcure all fish once I receive them for 15 to 20 minutes. After that i keep an eye on them for 4 to 6 weeks before I place them in my tank.

PM me if you would like more details because a QT required just as much if not more work than you main system if you want to do it right.
 

AsianChris

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Location
Chester, NY
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I understand that the price of the QT can be expensive. I was more concerned with pricing out each component, let alone what components are really needed. I knew that the tank, some kind of filtering system, heater, air pump, and something for fish to hide in were all needed. The question was more about, the size of the tank i should go with, which will determine the size of the filtration system and heater, etc.

I ended up getting a 10 gallon tank, small in tank filter system, and a 50W heater. I still have a couple of air pumps from my FW days.

And just like my other tanks, it's up and running with no fish. haha
 
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The price you pay for a QT may equal the price of one fish. If you don't QT you can easily wipe out an entire tanks worth of fish...so how much is too much? Some food for thought!

You will need the following:
A tank based on the size of the fish you plan to buy
heater
a small air pump & air stone (like they use in FW tanks)
a HOB filter is fine (will need carbon to help keep the water clean, or to remove meds IF you need to medicate a fish) Please do not medicate a fish unless there is a clear reason to. A QT is to observe the fish for good health
a light is not a necessity, or you can use a FW strip light
a mesh cover is a good idea too as many fish are jumpers and a new home is stressful to a fish
Pcs of PVC pipe

spot on...

another thing you can do to add to this, is use a Lustar Hydro Sponge filter. Sometimes HOB filter impellers stop working like during a power outage and sometimes they don't turn back on when the power comes on. So by using a sponge filter, you'll keep the tank aerated with the airstone and on top of that you'll have biological filtration all over the sponge.

Another nice thing about the sponge is that is pulls Ich and other parasites into it and makes it near impossible for them to get out so long as the parasite has dropped off of the fish and made it to the sponge.

Also... be careful buying PVC pipe. Some of it is "hollow core" and will float so either make sure it is NOT hollow core OR just buy fittings like "T's" , elbows and "Y's"

Best of luck!
 
Last edited:
Location
Queens, NY
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I just use a 5 gallon tank, an air pump, and a sponge filter. I split the air between the tank and the brine shrimp bottle, (which I'd be using to train the new fish with anyway). After I'm done, the tank goes back into the closet.

I've had a manderin goby, 5 inch hippo tang, and sailfin tangs and my current 4 inch copper banded butterfly QT this way with no problems. But also had 6-line wrasse and royal gramma die in there. Then again, they were probably going to die anyway, regardless of tank size
 

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