What went wrong here?

[FishyLovers]

Until now I have had a FOWLR tank, and the last time I was at the LFS I decided to try my hand at keeping Zoas. The only problem was that I have my tank in a sun room, so I had really no way of determining how strong my lighting is. The guys at the LFS said that the lighting I have is low, and so I decided to supplement it with 24w of t5s. (I have a 36 gallon tank) My Zoas have dramatically changed colors and shapes, and I want to know if this is an indication of strong or weak lighting, and if you'd recommend adding any corals in the tank without changing the lighting.

 

[thirty5]

When did you put them in there? Zoas do not need high light.

What are your parameters? Need a full spectrum of levels to really be able to give enough advise.

 

[FishyLovers]

I put them in the tank about 10 days before the pictures.
parameters:
SG: 1.026
pH: 8.3
ammonia:0
NO2-: 0
NO3-:0
PO4: 0.1 ppm

 

[piranhapat]

Just looking at you tank you have a lot of algae. I don't think your Phoshates are that low. I know you said its a sun room. Is the tank getting a lot of sun. Zoas don't need that much light. Is your temp going high in the day with the sun. Algae starting to grow on your Zoas.

 

[FishyLovers]

I had went away for a week so I got an automatic feeder which overfed the tank. I still haven't cleaned the algae and I don't have anything in my CUC that eats hair algae (which most of it is) so I think that's why I have so much algae. Since my tank does get a lot of light, do you recommend trying a med-high light species of coral?

 

[thirty5]

I recommend that you take care of the algae problem before you add anything else to your tank. If your tank overfed, then your levels should be out of whack. When did this over feeding occur. I would start with regular water changes, and run carbon or GFO to help clear up the algae. You can maybe pick up some CUC members that may eat the hair algae.

 

[FishyLovers]

The overfeeding was about a month ago. I wouldn't say that my tank has an algae problem becuase the rate that it grows is minimal. I just like the look of hair algae, so I decided to leave it as is. Right now I'm running a skimmer rated for 55 gal on my 35, and I have a small bioload ( all I have is a small clownfish, a pearly jawfish, and a CUC). That being the case I find it hard to believe that it is an algae problem. But anyway I am planning on getting some inverts to eat the hair algae. When I do clean the tank, and the parameters are fine, would you say, judging by the color of the Zoas, that I can get a med/high light coral?

 

[Imbarrie]

You havent specified what type and intensity of light you have.
Sunlight is of little to no help by the time it gets filtered through the window panes and your tank glass most of the beneficial aspects have been filtered out.
My tank gets a lot of sunlight also and I dont count any of that as contributing factor. It will help to set a circadian rythm.
I think you have more phosphates than you are measuring and some zoas are not tolerant of that.

How are you measuring phosphates?
What lighting do you have on your tank?
Are you using RODI?

 

[andylee]

The algae definitely suggests a problem with something. Unfortunately, the appearance of your zoas don't help at all with regard to how much light you are providing. 24 watts of t5s in a 36 gallon isn't going to do much for a medium or high-light coral.

 

[FishyLovers]

I have 24 watts of t5 lighting, and am measuring phosphates using an API test kit. I use tap water and add to it stress coat, and amquel. I want to use RODI water but the units are expensive. I guess that because I generally get a low reading on the phosphates in the tank, I assume that whatever algae is growing is primarily because of what I thought until now to be high lighting.

 

[Imbarrie]

The test kit you are using is not a good method to test for phosphates.
Tap water is high in dissolved solids and chemicals that fuel algae outbreaks.
Your lighting is most decidedly underpowered but I believe your zoas are not doing well due to the tap water you are using.
That setup is fine for fish only but problematic for coral growth.

 

[Weicowireman]

Air, water and ice has 5 stage ro filters for around $200.00. Do not buy anymore corals and buy a Rodi it will pay huge dividends in the long run. Tap water is the devil.

 

[thirty5]

With low light, your hair algae prob should be even more limited. How long are the lights running per day now?

You made mention before that you like the look of the hair algae. If you really want algae in your tank there are other types that are good for your tank.

You really need to switch to RO/DI. How long is the tank set up? If it has been running for a long time the TDS and such that you imported into the tank with your tap water probably has been absorbed into your rock. Eventually it starts to seep back out, then you will have more of an issue. You will be putting it in with the tap water and then more from the rock/substrate.

Get the problem under control that you have before adding any type of livestock to the tank. I am sure that you have read that this hobby is a hobby of patience. Unless you have a ton of money to get up and running instantly.

RO may be one of the most important things IMO.

 

[bigdog1428]

Your hair algae problem is bc your using tap water, that's where ur problem starts ....

 

[Imbarrie]

To be clear, hair algae is not a problem for a fish only tank.
It is actually beneficial to that kind of tank and will give life to all kinds of biologicals by providing them shelter and a food chain.
However it is ugly and will encroach on any kind of coral and choke it out comparable to kudzu.
In a reef tank the corals grow on the same sites the hair algae grows. So if you are looking into keeping corals of any kind the hair algae has to go along with all the chemicals from your tap water.
The most common way most reefers on this site accomplish this is by using RODI and the application of a GFO reactor.

 

[Weicowireman]

To be clear, hair algae is not a problem for a fish only tank.
It is actually beneficial to that kind of tank and will give life to all kinds of biologicals by providing them shelter and a food chain.
However it is ugly and will encroach on any kind of coral and choke it out comparable to kudzu.
In a reef tank the corals grow on the same sites the hair algae grows. So if you are looking into keeping corals of any kind the hair algae has to go along with all the chemicals from your tap water.
The most common way most reefers on this site accomplish this is by using RODI and the application of a GFO reactor.

+1


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[FishyLovers]

Thanks for all of the comments, they were helpful. I'll try to get an rodi before my next coral.

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

Umm starting off without RODI will cause you problems for months even years down the road. You might want to think about either staying Fish only or starting over.

 

[Imbarrie]

+1

Starting over meaning with new live rock and sand.

 

[Awibrandy]

+1

Starting over meaning with new live rock and sand.

I don't believe he has to ditch his rocks, if he is willing to clean them up (cook) them.

My 155 was started over with the same lr that was in my 120 & in my gf's 155 for years soaking up all that wonderful P04 for years.
What I did was:
a) I took all that wonderful rock put it all in rubbermaid bins with power heads, heaters, and cheap old skimmers for about a month or so.
b)Did 100% water changes with RO/DI water every few days (I think 3 days), until I got 0 trates, and there was no more visible detritus in the bins. Meaning that water in the bins, and the bottom of the bins had no detritus in it.
c)From their, I continued with weekly water changes with RO/DI water, and added GFO through a reactor (on account that I had to set up the new tank for the sake of my animals).

I now have 0 algae. Granted it does take a while, but it can be done, and since it sounds like the OP doesn't have $$$ to spare I"d like him to know he has options.