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Edv

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manhattan
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This is my frist time buying a regulator I don't want to wast any money on
the wrong one.

So I need help in finding which regulator is the best one over all.
I know there are + & - but I'm totaly lost in picking one.
IF you have any experience with regulator can you please me find one.
Or any tips that will help me.

I found these but maybe there are others that I don't know about.

AquaticLife Aquarium CO2 Regulator

Tunze Pressure Regulator 7077/3

Milwaukee MA957 CO2

Reef Fanatic Dual Gauge CO2 Regulator

Reef Octopus CO2 Regulator Gauges OCT-CO2


Any info will be so appreciate.

Thank you
Ed
 

Adamc1303

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Brooklyn, NY
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Hands down the best out there is the aquarium plants one. It has an electronic regulator so when pressure in the co2 tank changes as you use the co2 the needle wheel wont need adjusting. It's electronic you set it to the amount of bubbles per second you want and it will NEVER change. Check it out go to carbondoser.com
 

Edv

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But when I was at the web site this is what is said

Electronic Box only (with LCD counter)(for use with your own regulator)(1/4" fitting)

The only one that dose not say anything is

CarbonDoser Electronic Co2 Regulator

that it.. going to call today and ask.

Thanks
 

Edv

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Location
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Thank you I'm hearing a lots of good thing about this regulator it looks like i might be getting the Electronic Co2 Regulator (with 8 digit LCD Counter) IF I have to I might as well go all out. Can we say CC :(

I just pick up a 5lb today I hope that will last. I hope I didn't make a mistake with that
the good thing is I can upgrade it to a 10lb or 20lb most people using 5lb and 10lb.

Anyone with tips or any other info will be so appreciate.

Thank you all
 

Adamc1303

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Brooklyn, NY
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I AM NOT CLAIMING TO BE AN EXPERT but some of the info on that link seems wrong. First off do not start at 50 to 60 ml per min. Go to the lowest setting of 35 ml per min or even lower. 2nd If you want to increase calcium and alkalinity do not increase the bubble count. You want to get the solenoid to stay open for longer periods which means you want to bring the PH in the reactor down very slowly ideally getting it to a stable ph. The more CO2 you add the lower the PH will get faster. The key word is faster, meaning you will still decrease PH levels by adding a little CO2 it will just take longer. I like to use a setting of 6.6 to 6.5. CO2 on at 6.6 and off at 6.5. Once you are within that range you are melting the media at a decent rate not too fast and not too slow. Allot of people are able to dial in a reactor without a PH probe and controller. They do this by measuring the PH level of the effluent. Once you really get the hang of it you will understand that it's totally possible. Anyway this is how I would start.

Get your water parameters to where you want by them manually dosing. Calcium reactors maintain levels they don?t increase them. Because of the ratio added by a reactor, 20 ppm calcium for each 2.8 dKH of alkalinity, you will not be able to use it to get any significant boost to calcium without alkalinity getting too high. Although calcium reactors are set and forget as your corals grow you will have to keep testing and manually increase levels as needed especially on a new system where you are constantly adding new pieces.

Connect everything

Allot of people like to rinse the media first

Run without CO2 for a day

record your parameters

Start the effluent drip at 35 ml per min. I use a 10ml Hanna glass test tube with a stop watch and then multiply to see how much ML I am dosing per min.

Start the bubble rate at 4 seconds per bubble. Not 4 bubble per seconds. Count 4 seconds between each bubble. It will initially take a while for the PH to come down since the tank water PH coming into the reactor should be above 8.0.



Wait 24 hours and check your parameters. You will be mainly be monitoring the alkalinity levels as they fluctuate the most and are consumed the quickest. Because of the ratio added by a reactor, 20 ppm calcium for each 2.8 dKH of alkalinity, generally if you dial in according to KH then calcium will be fine. I you KH levels are the same as they were 24 hours ago and did not increase or decrease then you are all set. If they aren't you will increase/ decrease the effluent level 10 to 20 ml at a time.
Once you figure out how much effluent you need per min (this can take weeks to dial in sometimes) you move on to the bubble count. The first time I did this it took me more than a month to get it right and finally understand how it all works.
The amount of water being fed to the reactor from the tank isn't so important because the effluent line has a micro valve which is used to adjust the effluent dosage. That valve basically valves back the entire feed line to the reactor anyway. However the more effluent you dose per min the more high PH tank water enters the reactor so more CO2 will be needed to decrease the PH within the reactor and melt media.
I use an apex controller which has a feature of logging the PH on a graph. I use it to see how long my solenoid stays open for. Like I mentioned before there are reactors that don't even have PH probe holes drilled into the lids for controlling CO2. Once you know how to do this you don't even need the controller you should be able to get to a level where the effluent PH is always the same. Never the less technology makes it easier for us. I honestly don't know all of the exact reasons but I have read in a few places that the longer the solenoid stays open the better. One reason is that there is less wear on the solenoid because it isn't opening and closing all day. I also noticed that when CO2 is added at the slowest possible rate I don't get any excess CO2 in the top of the reactor which causes allot of air pockets that limit the performance of the reactor and add CO2 to the tank which brings down the tanks overall PH. As long as the effluent gets down to the 6.5 set point and doesn't go above the 6.6 you are good to go.

Hobbyist say things like ?running the reactor hard? They do that with low PH and high effluent. What they are doing is dosing very high amounts of very calcium and alkalinity rich effluent. If in order to keep up with your systems demand you need to adjust the reactor to go all the way up to 120 ML per min (basically micro valve open all the way) and even then it isn't keeping up, then your last resort before upgrading to a larger reactor is lowering the PH setting to 6.4 to 6.5 or even 6.3 to 6.4 which causes most medias to become muddy and melt fairly quickly. Once you do that you will need considerably more CO2 to keep up with such a high effluent demand at such a low PH. That's also how increasing the bubble count increases the calcium and KH levels but should only be used as a last resort.

I really HTH,

Adam
 

tomtoothdoc

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Location
north jersey
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This is the one you want. It is the last one on the price list. Not cheap however I know exactly when my CO2 tank is coming to an end with the counter. In adition, this thing has worked flawlessley from day one and a breeze to dial in. Here is the link http://www.aquariumplants.com/CarbonDoser_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm

+1
i got the manual dial one. lcd came as an option later on but the manual dial works fine, you just have to count the blinking led.
 

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