how does this plumbing look?

[james1990]

I want to do all the plumbing in schedule 80 PVC this time around for a cleaner more professional look and feel. I also want to avoid running to Lowes 10 times back and forth and just order everything online in one shot.

Excuse the crude diagram I am not experienced in this! also I forgot to put the gate/ball valves on so I added them after the barb fittings. Does the flow of everything make sense?

My biggest question at the moment would be if it is better to reduce the PVC before or after the gate valves?

 

[strgazr27]

What pump do you plan on running?

If it were me I would keep the main supply line 1" all the way and use 1"X1/2" T's feeding gate valves if you have the money, ball valves if you want to go cheaper. 3/4' valves are overkill for most of what would be fed by them and will likely need to be reduced anyway. Whats the 1" line that doubles back to the sump?

You will also want to run some sort of flex connection between the pump and the supply. Unless you love listening to the drone of vibrations.

IMO Sched 80 is a lot of money for little performance gain but if thats what you want to run go for it.

 

[james1990]

Im not so keen on the Sched 80 after reading that it has a smaller inside diameter. Maybe Ill just pant normal PVC black or something.

Im going to run the Jebao DC12000. Theres not much head height on the system, maybe 4'-5' tops. going to run a full syphon on the single overflow and run a 1" return over the top to maybe a sea swirl.

I was using 3/4" on the manifold because thats what I see on 99% of similar plumbing. I would think another advantage over 1/2" is less chance of calcium deposit clogging the lines. I hear thats an issue on manifolds.

The 1" thats ball valved off going back to the return is more of a failsafe/maintenance tool. In case the pump is too strong (though it is a controllable pump) I can divert flow back into the return without restricting the pump itself. I saw it on Marc's system on melevsreef.

As for the vibrations I am going to put a small foam layer under the pump but Its going in a fish room anyway I'm not worried about it.

 

[kres1024]

Make sure you have a back up 12000
And power supply

 

[Nottick]

Remember 3/4" pipe at 5 feet vs 1" pipe at 5feet simulate different head pressures I believe. So make sire you use what's recommended as an output for your pump

 

[_DZ_r??f]

Where is your drain so fare I c only return and everything is plumed to return?

 

[lfsmarineguy]

If you're going to order online why not just order grey sch 40? 80 is overkill if you just want it to be dark.

 

[lnevo]

If your using the dc12000 isnt it controllable/adjustable? If thats the case you dont need the loopback to the return chamber...plus your diverting to the fuge already so your already bleeding off any excess flow.

+1 to the grey sch 40

I think the 1"x1/2" tees sound like a better plan then reducing to 3/4"

 

[kres1024]

If your using the dc12000 isnt it controllable/adjustable? If thats the case you dont need the loopback to the return chamber...plus your diverting to the fuge already so your already bleeding off any excess flow.

+1 to the grey sch 40

I think the 1"x1/2" tees sound like a better plan then reducing to 3/4"

Pumps not that strong ,plus don't forget the backup pump

 

[SI REEF]

Gate valves are meant to be open or closed. Ball valves are for adjusting flow and you can buy a true union. Union- valve combination.

 

[albano]

Gate valves are meant to be open or closed. Ball valves are for adjusting flow

I thought it was the opposite!

 

[strgazr27]

Either can be used to adjust flow. Gate valves in the world of PVC tend to be much easier to adjust in fine increments than ball valves. Ball valves, if we are being picky do offer a smoother flow pattern than a gate.

 

[james1990]

I decided to just go with regular PVC and possibly paint it. I didn't draw the drain as there is a lot of info on here on how to run a syphon drain and I'm more unsure of the return plumbing and the manifold.

also, the loop back is going to be ditched, I just wasn't sure of the output on this DC12000 and what the pressure will look like after all the plumbing and manifold. This is my first time doing something like this, I know there is some formula with head height, gph.. and all that fun stuff but I can never figure that stuff out.

 

[james1990]

update *WITH PIX*

so this is what I came up with, I am still waiting for two more Spears gate valves for the manifold.

anyone see issues with the flow on the return? the top 90elbow goes through the wall and to the display

 

[james1990]

*PIX* of the Herbie so far, excuse my hack job! everything is dry fit so nothing is in it's final position

 

[lnevo]

Looks good man!!

 

[james1990]

I was wondering if I would be better off not Cap'ing the end of the manifold and just run the flow straight through the manifold into the display.

 

[oh207]

Nice! Looking great. I'm having some serious manifold envy.

For the 90 thats going through the wall, is there a shutoff valve? I see the manifold has a shutoff and the pipe below it looks likes its going to a refugium area? Both have a shutoff valve, but I don't see one on the main return line, unless its on the other side of the wall? Me thinks if you want to fully stop the return line from backflow, then you will need to turn off both valves, but then water will still drain back to the pump.

 

[james1990]

I thought thats what a water break hole was for on the return near the display

 

[lnevo]

Yeah shouldn't be needed on the return for backflow, but if you need to dial back any additional flow to the return you'll want a valve on the return going to the display.