Hello
I have a 20 L gallon saltwater tank.
This tank has 1 HOB filter (meant for a 30 gallon tank); a fluval 106 canister filter, 2 powerheads to create more aeration and ripples at my aquariums water surface.
I also have about 14 pieces of live rock now in my tank. Approximately 18 or 19lbs of live rock for a 20 gallon tank.
I have a expanded critter crew now. I think I lost one nassarus snail, but I think I have about 19 invertebrates in my tank now. I have 3 hermit crabs; 1 bumblebee snail; 7 nassarus snails; 3 nerite snails; 3 turbos; 1 marigita snail and I think I have 3 cerith snails still in my tank.
I also have one red maroon clownfish (I believe is still a juvenile) in my tank.
I also have a light sandbed.
I always use RO/DI water when replacing water through water changes now and going forward.
I do water changes either weekly or bi-weekly, mostly bi-weekly. When I do a change I remove about 20 to 25% of the water at any given time, unless it was a weekly change, and I remove about 10 -15%.
Anyway,
So I am thinking about putting a few coral fragments into this tank.
However I was told by someone that I should hold off putting any corals into my tank, until I get a sump.
The reason given was that (not all) but most corals give off some sort of oil as a byproduct and the sump helps essentially with sucking this excretion from the corals, so it doesn't hurt them?
Other reasons include, another area for other filter devices to exist to help further reduce nitrate and phosphate levels, as phosphates can also be damaging to corals?
My main question is a sump needed for corals to live in a tank and thrive or is this just a preferred method?
My second question, is with limited space that I have, (I have some space in the special aquarium cabinet I bought that currently supports my aquarium); but only so much, and I'm wondering if a 10 gallon tank that would serve as a sump would fit in here?
Third question is, does a sump actually require additional plumbing of some kind to operate, or does it work like this, (where there are extra filtration devices in this tank) and they are just connected somehow to the main display aquarium)?
Fourth question? Are LED lights better versus bulbs? I've read a great deal about how LEDs are more energy efficient produce, less heat, than MH, and last a-lot longer than fluorescence bulbs?
On the other hand I have also read a report today, about how LED lights sometimes do not produce enough sufficient light for corals (specifically) for the zooxanthellae algae to use for photosynthesis and thus these corals threw out their zooxanthellae and died?
I'm also wondering what types of LEDS (if most people here think they are still a very light source to use) are adequate for zooantheds, mushroom and leather corals without breaking the bank either?
Meaning are there good LED lights for these types of beginner corals, with someone having a budget of say 200 to 300 dollars?
Furthermore as I cannot attach these lights to the ceiling of my apartment, what LED brands provide a holder or bracket system which would attach to the two sides of my aquarium top?
What is a good Kelvin range too to not just keep these types of corals alive but allow them to grow and thrive?
I would like to also see them pop every so often?
I'm wondering how many hours of light should they receive during each day, and specifically what wavelengths?
I am also wondering how much blue light they can handle each day?
I heard if this wavelength is used, this should be only at a minimum each day (like 2 hours a day) but I'm unsure why?
I am also unsure because I read from some other sources that the blue wavelength within the electro magnetic spectrum actually served as a good source of light energy for certain types of corals to grow?
Lastly,
Do these lights list PUR (Photosynthetically usable radiation) value as well as the PAR (photosythentically active radiation) values.
I read that PUR is that fraction of PAR that is absorbed by plants and zooxanthellae photopigments thereby stimulating photosynthesis. Specifically falling within the wavelengths between 400-550nm and 620 to 740nm.
So my question here I think is I have read that LED emitters now can be selected for the exact wavelength of light, thus much less useless yellow or green light is emitted, so although the LED may seem less bright than some HO lights with the naked eye (such as T5's or MH's); the actual output of light energy in spectrums we cannot see is much higher. This is why gauging a light by what you can visibly see is highly inaccurate.
Is this all correct?
Anyway these are my questions right now. If you can provide any feedback on any of these topics I would appreciate it.
Thanks
I have a 20 L gallon saltwater tank.
This tank has 1 HOB filter (meant for a 30 gallon tank); a fluval 106 canister filter, 2 powerheads to create more aeration and ripples at my aquariums water surface.
I also have about 14 pieces of live rock now in my tank. Approximately 18 or 19lbs of live rock for a 20 gallon tank.
I have a expanded critter crew now. I think I lost one nassarus snail, but I think I have about 19 invertebrates in my tank now. I have 3 hermit crabs; 1 bumblebee snail; 7 nassarus snails; 3 nerite snails; 3 turbos; 1 marigita snail and I think I have 3 cerith snails still in my tank.
I also have one red maroon clownfish (I believe is still a juvenile) in my tank.
I also have a light sandbed.
I always use RO/DI water when replacing water through water changes now and going forward.
I do water changes either weekly or bi-weekly, mostly bi-weekly. When I do a change I remove about 20 to 25% of the water at any given time, unless it was a weekly change, and I remove about 10 -15%.
Anyway,
So I am thinking about putting a few coral fragments into this tank.
However I was told by someone that I should hold off putting any corals into my tank, until I get a sump.
The reason given was that (not all) but most corals give off some sort of oil as a byproduct and the sump helps essentially with sucking this excretion from the corals, so it doesn't hurt them?
Other reasons include, another area for other filter devices to exist to help further reduce nitrate and phosphate levels, as phosphates can also be damaging to corals?
My main question is a sump needed for corals to live in a tank and thrive or is this just a preferred method?
My second question, is with limited space that I have, (I have some space in the special aquarium cabinet I bought that currently supports my aquarium); but only so much, and I'm wondering if a 10 gallon tank that would serve as a sump would fit in here?
Third question is, does a sump actually require additional plumbing of some kind to operate, or does it work like this, (where there are extra filtration devices in this tank) and they are just connected somehow to the main display aquarium)?
Fourth question? Are LED lights better versus bulbs? I've read a great deal about how LEDs are more energy efficient produce, less heat, than MH, and last a-lot longer than fluorescence bulbs?
On the other hand I have also read a report today, about how LED lights sometimes do not produce enough sufficient light for corals (specifically) for the zooxanthellae algae to use for photosynthesis and thus these corals threw out their zooxanthellae and died?
I'm also wondering what types of LEDS (if most people here think they are still a very light source to use) are adequate for zooantheds, mushroom and leather corals without breaking the bank either?
Meaning are there good LED lights for these types of beginner corals, with someone having a budget of say 200 to 300 dollars?
Furthermore as I cannot attach these lights to the ceiling of my apartment, what LED brands provide a holder or bracket system which would attach to the two sides of my aquarium top?
What is a good Kelvin range too to not just keep these types of corals alive but allow them to grow and thrive?
I would like to also see them pop every so often?
I'm wondering how many hours of light should they receive during each day, and specifically what wavelengths?
I am also wondering how much blue light they can handle each day?
I heard if this wavelength is used, this should be only at a minimum each day (like 2 hours a day) but I'm unsure why?
I am also unsure because I read from some other sources that the blue wavelength within the electro magnetic spectrum actually served as a good source of light energy for certain types of corals to grow?
Lastly,
Do these lights list PUR (Photosynthetically usable radiation) value as well as the PAR (photosythentically active radiation) values.
I read that PUR is that fraction of PAR that is absorbed by plants and zooxanthellae photopigments thereby stimulating photosynthesis. Specifically falling within the wavelengths between 400-550nm and 620 to 740nm.
So my question here I think is I have read that LED emitters now can be selected for the exact wavelength of light, thus much less useless yellow or green light is emitted, so although the LED may seem less bright than some HO lights with the naked eye (such as T5's or MH's); the actual output of light energy in spectrums we cannot see is much higher. This is why gauging a light by what you can visibly see is highly inaccurate.
Is this all correct?
Anyway these are my questions right now. If you can provide any feedback on any of these topics I would appreciate it.
Thanks
