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NYReefer

GOT FRAGS??
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Hi everyone, so i've been out of the hobby about 4 years now and i am finally able to get a tank up and running again! I recently picked up a used 60g cube stand and sump from another member and could use some advice on plumbing. Pics below- as you can see some pvc was left attached because its glued in. The person i bought it from said they never set it up and had it in the garage about a year after buying from another member. I was wondering if i should take it all off and buy new bulkheads and new pvc and start fresh- opinions? There is not much room in the overflow section to work tho. My other thought was to keep it and maybe attach some spa flex to it somehow for the drain and all flex for the return. I used it on my old tank and never had an issue but it was a smaller tank and shorter distance to travel. I have never used rigid pvc to plumb a tank. I do see most ppl go that route tho. I want to keep it as simple as possible- drain and return. I did read that using 45deg elbows is the way to go and a lot of ppl seem to use unions but i want to keep this as silent as possible thats why i though flex for the return would be good. Plz help me get this going all advice is appreciated! Thanks







 

1QuickSubaru

Advanced Reefer
Location
Nassau
Rating - 100%
7   0   0
No way you can replace the bulkheads without removing the overflow box. I had a 60 cube and did plumbing in a similar fashion and never had any issues. Silent as can be. Maybe cut the pipe and plumb it starting much closer to the bulkhead.
 

Dannyboy11222

Advanced Reefer
Location
Brooklyn
Rating - 100%
36   0   0
Replace it all. Start the plumbing from scratch.. Use unions at the top of the return and at any elbows. That's the best way to dismantle the system for upgrades or moving etc...also tap another pipe using a T, so u can have as a back up drain. I see in the photos the overflow is very narrow. So T'ing off is probably the only way to have a back up drain.. For the return, use a gate valve so u can fine tune ur water flow, depending on how u plan on draining during water changes, I use a threaded gate valve on the return using a hose barb and use the back pressure to drain the tank. Hard plumbing the tank is always the best option. But u can still get barbs for hoses if hose is the way u want to go.
 

NYReefer

GOT FRAGS??
Rating - 100%
10   0   0
thanks for the input guys i plumbed the tank the other day. i went all hard pvc and left the existing drain and bulkheads. i can barely get my hand in the overflow so i dont think i would be able to get everything out without taking the overflow off. i think it came out ok i didnt use any unions or anything i'll just have to cut it if i move. cant leak test it yet though because half the locline is missing for the return so i have to pick some up first.
 

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