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11-08-2017, 09:08 AM
  #11  
Just curious, did you read or was given advice on the salinity and alkalinity levels?
1.022~1.022 ppt is more towards a fish only with live rock tank parameter. 1.025 ppt is what you should strive for with a reef tank. Alkalinity at 8.0 DKH and Magnesium at 1350 ppm is another point level to shoot for. Alkalinity should be brought up with a buffer solution slowly over a week's time, Magnesium can be done a little quicker. After you test and find that you need to adjust levels, you should do it in this order: Mg, Alk, Ca.
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11-08-2017, 09:13 AM
  #12  
I brought the salinity up to the 1.025 range, and I'm working on Alk slowly (tests for the salt water I use for water changes is testing all at 8 so hopefully those changes will help me stabilize that.) I haven't tested Mg.

As for the tanks state, it seems like the Candy canes have stopped receding but the Acans are still not doing well. I've moved them into a breeder within the tank to keep shrimp and starfish from picking at them just to maybe help them recover. But so far it doesn't seem like there's much improvement there.
 
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11-08-2017, 09:21 AM
  #13  
Magnesium is important in the chain, low mg will not allow you to keep a stable calcium or alkalinity level.
Just keep in mind that if your salt mix is testing at 8 DKH, your not accounting for any draw that the tank is using so doing water changes might not keep your alkalinity at 8 DKH. You should bring your tank level up to the target point using buffers first. SeaChem Reef Builder is an easy way to do it.
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11-08-2017, 09:23 AM
  #14  
Quote:
Originally Posted by pecan2phat View Post
Magnesium is important in the chain, low mg will not allow you to keep a stable calcium or alkalinity level.
Just keep in mind that if your salt mix is testing at 8 DKH, your not accounting for any draw that the tank is using so doing water changes might not keep your alkalinity at 8 DKH. You should bring your tank level up to the target point using buffers first. SeaChem Reef Builder is an easy way to do it.
Noted, I have ESV 2 Part, I generally like to avoid dosing for the off chance something goes wrong. But I've been doing small doses of that to bring it up as well.
 
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11-08-2017, 09:59 AM
  #15  
Hanna colorimeters for Ultra-low PO and Alk as well. They are one of the least time consuming test, with digital readout no less. For low Nitrate reading (which is not that important nowadays), I use NYOS that you can buy from BRS. Very easy to tell the difference in color at low range.
 
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11-12-2017, 02:02 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Wesley View Post
Hanna colorimeters for Ultra-low PO and Alk as well. They are one of the least time consuming test, with digital readout no less. For low Nitrate reading (which is not that important nowadays), I use NYOS that you can buy from BRS. Very easy to tell the difference in color at low range.
Thanks Wesley
 
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11-16-2017, 10:38 AM
  #17  
So I've gotten my params in check using ESV 2 part and testing often. That being said, the coral with problems still has problems and it continuing to get worse.

I've started to check my tank more closely at night to see if there might be any hitchhikers that might be causing the problem. I did see what looked like a clear bristle worm that I've never seen again. I did also see something that after my best google searching I've determined might be a ribbon worm. If it is a ribbon worm does anyone know 1. How I would go about catching it, (i took the coral that has it living inside out and it's now in a bucket) and 2. Whether or not ribbon worms would explain what is happening to the LPS at all?
 
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11-17-2017, 04:51 PM
  #18  
Just tested mag and got 1400ppm. So that should be fine correct?
 
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11-17-2017, 05:13 PM
  #19  
Yes esp. if using a Red Sea kit which tend to show higher

Good article with param.for reference

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

Last edited by MDreef; 11-17-2017 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Added a link
 
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11-17-2017, 05:20 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by SteveZz View Post
So I've gotten my params in check using ESV 2 part and testing often. That being said, the coral with problems still has problems and it continuing to get worse.

I've started to check my tank more closely at night to see if there might be any hitchhikers that might be causing the problem. I did see what looked like a clear bristle worm that I've never seen again. I did also see something that after my best google searching I've determined might be a ribbon worm. If it is a ribbon worm does anyone know 1. How I would go about catching it, (i took the coral that has it living inside out and it's now in a bucket) and 2. Whether or not ribbon worms would explain what is happening to the LPS at all?
I doubt it’s a worm eating your corals. Parasites worms etc would be more systematic in eating everything then moving on. Also you’ve prob had those worms all along and while it’s possible they suddenly developed an appetite for your lps it’s unlikely. Google Ron Shimek and worms I’m sure he’s covered all types...
 

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