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nymedic

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I thought i was set on a lighting set up until i went to a lfs who specialized in reef tanks. His shop was beutiful,and his tanks were perfect. He told me the way to go is power compacts if i was unable to afford metal halide (which i cant). I was going to use a 440 watt setup from hello lights.com bot he advised me to use a 220 watt power compact set up . He stated that even though the wattage was lower they are more efficient and generate less heat. My tank is a 90 gal with an amiracle wet dry a red sea protien skimmer 80lbs of live rock and a crushed coral substrate. Also do i have to swiych to a live sand substrate to keep a succesful reef tank. I know this is alot to ask on one post i really could use the help 8O
 

jamesw

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When you balance the cost of the equipment, replacing the PC bulbs every 6 months, and the watts per unti area of light produced, the Metal Halides will come out on top every time.

It's like buying a car, you have to look at the "maintenance cost" at the time of purchase. Some MH lamps (Iwasakis) last longer than a year.

Cheers
James
 

gregmoeck

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I have to agree. ohhhh the money I have spent on power compacts... I should have gone Halide many moons ago. PC's are a money pit but they do look nice.

If I had to do it all over again I would for sure get halide.
 

SeanT

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Save your pennies and get the halides.
They are breathtaking.
The water 'shimmers' like the sun cutting thru the ocean.
 

stevearthur

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For the depth of your tank I would have to agree on the MH. The setup is exspenive, but they will work great for your tank. Check on ebay for some better deals for MHs
 

Saltykirk

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If you look around you can find some really nice 150 HQI halides.
The bulbs are cheaper to buy than most 175's and they are just as bright.
Jalli makes some w/ remote ballasts, fans, and the whole bit that i use.
I also use PC's too. I like halides better but, PC's will work. On the topic of bulb replacement, the 6 month rule on PC lamps is a carry over from VHO rumors and some fact that the bulbs suck after a 6 months. Light bulb manufacturers delight in the people throwing away perfectly fine bulbs and buying(stimulating the economy) new bulbs twice a year. New lamps are expensive but, are cheaper to run than most MH ballasts.
If you do MH, look for electronic ballasts too. The cost of running 2 175's or 250's will reflect on your electric bill trust me.
 

JohnD

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nymedic

What are you doing in Tampa?? 8O

My first recommendation is you get rid of the CC and get yourself some SouthDown sand.

You stated you do not have the money for MH, so go for the PC. I am running a PC on my 37 gallon tank. It looks nice and is not too hot. I replace the bulbs every 12 months.

A few years from now when you have a few bucks in your pocket, you can always upgrade. By then, you will probably say, "I should have bought the MH". Yes, you should have, but remember, you didn't have the money at the time. I've been there. It is all part of this damn money-pit hobby!! :?
 

Deep Blue

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nymedic":21dzuma7 said:
I thought i was set on a lighting set up until i went to a lfs who specialized in reef tanks. His shop was beutiful,and his tanks were perfect. He told me the way to go is power compacts if i was unable to afford metal halide (which i cant). I was going to use a 440 watt setup from hello lights.com bot he advised me to use a 220 watt power compact set up .

220W on a 90G?

Ive got 322W of Power compact over my 65 Gallon. (2x96 custom sealife on "orbit" style legs and 2x65 sitting directly on glass top-both with moon lights also and 10k/actinic combination in both fixtures) I know many have said MH looks better but honestly......the 322W power compacts I have over my 65 looks way better than any MH Ive seen (albiet thats limited to books, public aquariums and MD office reefs and the displays at the fish store...but mine still looks better-even than many of the MH pics in the pic forum).
 

das75

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I'm leaning towards 220W PC mostly due heat concerns.

Currently only 40W NO and had temps into the mid to high 80's during summer. Not enough room between the water surface and the top covers (4") and don't want to run open top (light spillage) nor modify the hood or buy a chiller.

Am I off on this?
 

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