yf1

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oh! I forgot to enter my cal. its now 470ppm, so i will bring it down to 380-420
whats MG?
I dont have an alk test kit, if my ph is good, why test alk?
 
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MG = magnesium

You need to have a balance of calcium and alkalinity in order to make bicarbonate that all stony corals use to build a skeleton. It is very possible to have your Ca readings be fine or high and your dKh readings to be very low. I would test all.
 

yf1

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okay, i got a tester for my alk. it was good, I forgot the no. i did it friday. my cal. is 470 a litle high, phos. is 0.5, but my ph is sky high! so,were 8.8 or higher!, so i need do deal with my high cal. and high, ph.

so bringing down the cal, will take care of the ph too?

p.s. I noticed that I should not add any more cal, or tace elements after a water change, sinse the salt is already bufferd with evrything! I will just add iodine to help my shrimps malt. am I corect?
 
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You should not add anything to your water that you don't test for. So, if you are going to dose iodine, then you should buy an iodine test kit and see if its low. Your salt should replenish the iodine in your tank so this probably isn't necessary.

Your Ca should come down naturally as corals use the calcium to build their skeletons. You don't really need to take any action to correct that if your alk is good.

As far as your pH goes, I would recommend this article:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.php

I would also recommend maybe buying a book or two on reefkeeping that you can keep on hand for easy reference. You might also want to invest in better test kits.

If your phosphate is 0.5 and not 0.05, then you have a pretty bad phosphate problem as well, and you might want to run some sort of phosphate sponge (rowaphos, phosban, etc.) to try and reduce that.
 

digitalreefer

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okay, i got a tester for my alk. it was good, I forgot the no. i did it friday. my cal. is 470 a litle high, phos. is 0.5, but my ph is sky high! so,were 8.8 or higher!, so i need do deal with my high cal. and high, ph.

so bringing down the cal, will take care of the ph too?

p.s. I noticed that I should not add any more cal, or tace elements after a water change, sinse the salt is already bufferd with evrything! I will just add iodine to help my shrimps malt. am I corect?

BunnyPancakeSmlr.jpg


I hate to steal Chris's thunder... but this needs the bunny.

Post your actual test results and maybe we can help.
 

loismustdie

chicks dig beckett men
Location
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I sense a disturbance.
Frustrating... isn't it. I have very little hair left. Because of fish and corals in f'ing boxes and people who want to keep them.
A lot of good info spread by the members here. Sucks when people don't listen.
Lissa, this has the potential to make you pull your hair out.
... no beckett... no hair... no digging.
You've done well, but it's time for you to back away. Some men... you just can't reach:
i'm using the best system
E... you're on your own. I just hope you can measure up to "pete" the pro.
Godspeed.
 

yf1

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Well, first thanks for your advice!

RO water was at the lowest, and the tank water was just one up, so, yah, ist more like to be as you say, 0.05, since my RO was just changed the filters, and the membrane I got just before last summer, and the hardness I tested and its just fine, so, as I'm doing a sub total, it must be the cal. and combi-sens I added after the last water change, and the high cal. pumped the ph.

About all dose particals:
I was convinced that the more water current, the better. but obviously, since I changed that 2400GPH return pump to just 1200GPH, And I switch off the power head, and I placed the return at the far end of the tank, so all corals have now some current, and they also open better… and the water became clearer like never before... except the fact that my dozen grazing fish are producing "dirt all the time", so if you look close, I can still see them, but I went to more then one pet store, and the reef tanks they have for display, are all with that same type particals... so I know, that its impossible to have a 150 gallon reef with a heavy load of "fish and corals" and still be "clean clean clean"

I also drooped in my sump tank a "Corluipa" to top off the extra nutrients.

Now, I’m looking where I can get some outstanding beautiful colorful corals?..

Thanks!
 

loismustdie

chicks dig beckett men
Location
Brooklyn
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The members are trying to help you.
Corluipa (or as we call it "culerpa") is being sold at amazing levels, yet it won't do anything for your tank. I suggest you remove it.
"pete" don't know s***. He sells you s***.
Your system is not the best. It is **** sold by "pete". If your water quality is not the best, you cannot get colorful stuff. It will turn brown.
Let me repeat, the members are trying to help you. Look at what they are saying. Trust them. They haven't put out anything worse than "pete" the pro has. Nothing to gain. They aren't selling you anything. They are trying to help.
.03 on a Salifert test kit actually= .2 (+). .05 on what ever Pete uses is probably worse.
chris
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Pseudo

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Please refrain from name calling. It neither helps or is necessary on the board. If you feel you have nothing better to say or a better way to say it, do not post.

Thanks,

Kasei
 

yf1

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brooklyn
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Wow wow wow!

forgot about "pete" i'm paying him in the side to teach me how to keep a reef, I never got my stuff from the store he works, accept food salt,etc. there is a store named "fish expo" and the owner sold me and did the entire setup, when i said "best system" I was really saying that I have high quality hardware, good glass tank, filter, uv , skimmer pump etc. but since that fish expo is a thief one of a kind, I never walked in there again... so I was sort of hanging right in the middle, there is were "pete" came in the picture, and I learned the basics, but I want to know better then that, so I searched online, find this forum, and when I was told i need a alk. test kit, I spend a day finding it, when I was told that my current is too strong, I made my hands wet, and installed a "new pump". and everything I see here makes sense, "I'm here to learn and succeed, not just make people crazy" What am I doing that is making you mad???



regrds.
 

yf1

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brooklyn
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p.s. my live stock is from dr. foster & smith only, they have the most healthy fish and coral "I" have seen, maybe "you" know better, just tell me, I willing to learn.

I'm ready to bring you a water sample so you can test it with your test kits, or if you don’t mind to come to my tank and take peak, (I will pay you..) Is even better, I'm at Spenser & flushing Brooklyn 11211, you can call me if you like 718-404-8363. I'm my self a teacher in school. (There is where I started to deal with "fish tanks") and I'm always saying to the kids: just live and learn from other people and share your ideas to other people, is the most important key in life.
 

Awibrandy

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On the other question, the answer is that it is frustrating for the members here to take the tame to answer peoples questions. And very often the person refuses to follow the advice gave, but keeping asking "what is wrong with my tank". Drives anyone crazy. You are a teacher, (to me you folk are blessed with a great deal of patience;)), unfortunately not everyone has been blessed in this department including me.
Why are you paying for advice, when advice is free here? We are all here to help one another, some help a great deal more then others. Especially if they have greater experience. By the way number of years in the hobby does not count, I for 1 have been into aquariums for over 34 years the last 6 in salt water. And as I already stated I know next to nothing when it comes to the SPS corals.
Another issue with this hobby is that there is a lot of controversy; the minute you think you've got a handle on it someone comes up with the facts as to why it doesn't work. And to top that off is the fact that there are numerous ways to accomplish the end. What works for some does not always work for others, and vice versa. I could continue with more, but I have been accused of being to wordy. I hope you understood what I have tried to relay here.
 

yf1

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Location
brooklyn
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And very often the person refuses to follow the advice gave, but keeping asking "what is wrong with my tank". Drives anyone crazy.

I'm folowing every detail I was told here lol.

about phos. How can I get rid of the phos. I have, should I use a filter media or a reactor? and what kind? model? i'm buying it right now.

thanks
 
Location
Upper East Side
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Well, first thanks for your advice!

RO water was at the lowest, and the tank water was just one up, so, yah, ist more like to be as you say, 0.05, since my RO was just changed the filters, and the membrane I got just before last summer, and the hardness I tested and its just fine, so, as I'm doing a sub total, it must be the cal. and combi-sens I added after the last water change, and the high cal. pumped the ph.

1) Your phosphate is still way too high. Whatever test kit you are using, it is too high. Phosphate is like algae food. This is why you have algae covering your new SPS. This could be why your other corals are not opening properly.

2) Did you read the pH article I sent you? High pH is generally not caused by having too much calcium. Remember, if your pH is very low, you are heading toward as more acid substance, if your pH is high, you are heading towards a more alkaline substance. My guess is that your dKH is quite high.

About all dose particals:
I was convinced that the more water current, the better. but obviously, since I changed that 2400GPH return pump to just 1200GPH, And I switch off the power head, and I placed the return at the far end of the tank, so all corals have now some current, and they also open better?

Some corals like high flow (like all SPS). Some corals like low flow (like some LPS). You should look up what kind of flow your different corals like and position them accordingly. If you are blasting a brain coral with 2400gph, then it probably won't open up. If you do the same thing to an SPS, it might be quite happy.

and the water became clearer like never before...

Could be because you aren't stirring up sand and sediment with a strong pump.

except the fact that my dozen grazing fish are producing "dirt all the time", so if you look close, I can still see them, but I went to more then one pet store, and the reef tanks they have for display, are all with that same type particals...

I don't know what this means.

so I know, that its impossible to have a 150 gallon reef with a heavy load of "fish and corals" and still be "clean clean clean"

It is not impossible to have a clean 150g tank. There are plenty of members here that have accomplished that - it just takes patience and good husbandry skills.

I also drooped in my sump tank a "Corluipa" to top off the extra nutrients.

Macro algae is not going to take care of all of your nutrient problems. If you are having serious nutrient problems (and it sounds like you are), I would do aggressive water changes until the problem starts to get better.

Good luck.

And read the article - if your pH is really that high, you need to correct it pronto.
 

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