Questions regarding my Kent Marine Maxxima RO/DI unit
- Thread starter ndimuzio
- Start date
Call your vendor/seller. They should be able to give you instruction to hook everything up. This is water you should expect from them.
If you want to look around, there are a few old threads with diagrams/description to how to hook up the auto-topoff unit. The rest of the RO filter should be all assembled, so you don't have to worry about that.
Basically, there are two outputs from the RO filter. One is called "brine" and the other is called "permeate." Brine is salty waste water. It goes to drain or your lawn for watering garden (well, do the watering when spring comes around). The permeate is the "good stuff." Use your TDS meter on your tap, and in CT, you should see reading around 50-120 ppm. Now test the brine. It should be 80-150ppm. Now test the permeate. It should be 10-20 ppm. So far so good?
If your filter is user friendly, the hose should be color-coded. Blue is the input water, black is brine, while yellow is permeate.... I am not too sure about color (don't have the RO filter right in front of me), so don't freak out if the coloring does not make sense. As long as the TDS reading is fine, then you are ontrack.
Anyway, the actuator unit is called "ASO valve," among other names. This thread has a diagram of the valve near the end:
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21843
Basically it close off the path from the prefilter to the RO pressure housing when the float valve is closed. It may have 4 or 3 ports, depends on the model. Have fun
If you want to look around, there are a few old threads with diagrams/description to how to hook up the auto-topoff unit. The rest of the RO filter should be all assembled, so you don't have to worry about that.
Basically, there are two outputs from the RO filter. One is called "brine" and the other is called "permeate." Brine is salty waste water. It goes to drain or your lawn for watering garden (well, do the watering when spring comes around). The permeate is the "good stuff." Use your TDS meter on your tap, and in CT, you should see reading around 50-120 ppm. Now test the brine. It should be 80-150ppm. Now test the permeate. It should be 10-20 ppm. So far so good?
If your filter is user friendly, the hose should be color-coded. Blue is the input water, black is brine, while yellow is permeate.... I am not too sure about color (don't have the RO filter right in front of me), so don't freak out if the coloring does not make sense. As long as the TDS reading is fine, then you are ontrack.
Anyway, the actuator unit is called "ASO valve," among other names. This thread has a diagram of the valve near the end:
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21843
Basically it close off the path from the prefilter to the RO pressure housing when the float valve is closed. It may have 4 or 3 ports, depends on the model. Have fun
I setup my RO/DI system.. I didnt use the float valve yet.. the TPS on the in reads 144 and out is 86, is that good?
How/where do I mix the salt in if I am pumping the RO water straight into my sump... this time I did a 20% water change.. put the salt in the sump and kept mixing it around so the pump would spray it into the tank.. also the Ro water is cold.. it lowered my tank 73.5 F
How/where do I mix the salt in if I am pumping the RO water straight into my sump... this time I did a 20% water change.. put the salt in the sump and kept mixing it around so the pump would spray it into the tank.. also the Ro water is cold.. it lowered my tank 73.5 F
I do not think I would do it that way for a water change, top off is one thing, you do not add that much top off if you do it everyday so it does not effect the tank. I use a 30 Gal rubbermaid for water changes. I fill that with RO/DI and add the salt, powerhead and a heater then mix it for a few days.
If there is no mineral added to the distilled water, the TDS reading should give you something very close to "0" on the meter.
Make sure you use a clean container for holding the water, since even a small amount of residue can jack up the TDS reading a lot for distill/RO DI water.
Make sure you use a clean container for holding the water, since even a small amount of residue can jack up the TDS reading a lot for distill/RO DI water.
Did you use it on distilled water? As mentioned above, tap water should give you 50-120ppm, and RO should give you around 10ppm, and DI should be way under 5ppm (most are around "0" for DI).
BTW, who made the TDS meter, and does it come with instruction on calibration and usage?
BTW, who made the TDS meter, and does it come with instruction on calibration and usage?
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