blue color on green ammonia test!?

[Anonymous]

I myself would not change any water. I would add Ammo Block 2. This will make the ammonia non-toxic and will not hinder the cycle. I have done this during every cycle. It works.

 

[Anonymous]

Probably last page in this story: the salinity in the curing tank was *way* off (probably 1.035-1.04) due to evaporation during the last week (some 4-6 galons of fresh water missing out of an about 25 gal curing tank)
and probably that's why I got the blue results on the aquarium pharmaceuticals kit.

I'm bringing the watter salinity slowly to normal (in hope that something actually survived!) and I'll make another test.

Regarding the water change, taz, why does a 100% water change (i.e. movement in a new tank) stop the cycle? aren't the bacterias supposed to stay on the rock, and hence moved to the new tank with the rock? Am I missing anything?

I'm asking because I'm looking forward to cure 2 more batches of rock and I don't want it to take longer than it has to.

Regards,
Mihai

Ok, I just read two other posts regarding your nitrifying bacteria. and you are correct, Mihai. The nitrifyers (those that oxidize ammonia into nitrite and then nitrate) are benthic. This means that a 100% change will not remove that which is attached on and IN the rock. If we were talking about a good gravel vacuuming in a tank that's suffering competition with free-floating bacteria, then I would say do NOT vacuum, disturb those benthics as little as possible. However, this is not the case. You most certainly can do a full change of water, including with subsequent live rock. Free-floating bacteria are, generally, not what you're after.

However, in regards to the cycle, I believe the confusion lies in the distinction between cycling - culturing nitrifying bacteria, and curing - getting live rock through the death(s) and removal of all/any organisms that have not made the adventure through transshipping. What you are doing right now is curing, not cycling. Also, when cycling (with live rock in situ), you already have (benthic) nitrifyers present, what you're really trying to do is boost your cultures - thus enters "The Fishless Cycle" (adding a raw bit of shrimp or some such which will decompose, create nitrogenous waste, and thus grow you more of them there bacteria you want for the impending bioload). Make sense?

If you want a good layout of curing (cycling's very well-written about, should be easy to find) and other information on setting up a natural system, I strongly suggest finding yourself a copy of "The Natural Marine Aquarium-Reef Invertebrates", by Anthony Calfo and Bob Fenner. There's a huge section just on live rock.

 

[Mihai]

Thanks SeaMaiden, it does make sense. In curing my goal is to keep as many animals that I can keep alive, alive.

However, it looks like the Ammoblock2 idea makes sense too. I don't worry so much about cyclying, I'm sure that after three batches of LR added to my tank (after they cure in garage) my tank will be cycled, or close to cycled.

BTW, I now have the salinity back to 1.024 and
my ammonia is 0 (according both to the seachem and the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test); I'm featuring some 2.0 nitrities, when I'm done with them I'll move the LR in my tank (now it's in the garage in a RubberMaid 31gal container).

I have Bob's "the conscientious marine aquarist", but I'll check out this book to. I was thinking about Anthony's "book of coral propagation" (although I'm probably years away from doing so -> but I'll get there nevertheless). Any feedback on that?

Regards,
Mihai