metal halide recommendation

[ebosshard]

Upgrading from the crummy NO lights I started with

220g tank, beginning to add soft corals which is mostly all I will end up with (envision a small bit of hard corals some day).

I know there are a ton of thoughts on this subject.

How about some specific recommedations (wattage, brand, supplier)

Thanks

Erci

 

[jbpig]

Well with a 220g I would say 400W. On the bulb, it is a matter of choice. 6500k are a white/yellow, 10K are more blue/white, and 20k are blue. I run 20k's and I dont have to supplement with actinics anymore. Do a search for MH light comparisons there is a websight where someone took photos of the different kelvin bulbs so you can see what they look like.

 

[ChrisRD]

How deep is the tank?

 

[Anonymous]

If you us DE (double-ended) you can get equal to or better brightness than a 400W mogul bulb and save quite a bit on your power bill.

My current ideal lighting system would be 10K DE bulbs with t5 actinic bulbs to supply some blue.

I have DE 10ks with one mogul 400 radium between them for blue on my 120. And that works pretty good. 400 Radiums are not bright enough for my tastes alone, however.

It would be helpful to know the dimensions of the tank...

 

[Cynabar]

If your tank is the same dimensions as my 220 (72x24x30) then three 175 watt 10,000K german bulbs with two 6 foot VHO actinics will give you a crisp clear tank without the noticable blue tint.

 

[ebosshard]

mine is 72x24x30(deep)

I am moving towards mostly softies in this tank (just got my first leather, have a two week old star polyp doing great, have a christmas tree worm in a piece of coral that is looking a bit iffy)

Want to add an anemone or two in the next month or so

I have the crummy normal output bulbs in a hood unit from my lfs (bums).

Questions:

1-Do i dump the hood unit i have now?

2-Everything I read says metal halides key, agree?

3-If I get metal halides do I run the tank without a cover on it?

4-Can I use metal halides without a chiller

5-What is the best metal halide unit to buy these days (best defined by gets the job done, reliable, doesn't need any/much chilling)

thanks

Eric

 

[Anonymous]

Whether you need a chiller depends upon the ambient temp of your house. I'm in the northeast (US) and I don't know anybody that needs a chiller. Usually a fan in the hood or pendant fixtures with take care of it.

You can keep the hood if the lights fit into it...

Most people don't use the glass cover over the tank. I have in the past, but it cuts down on the light a lot, particularly when it gets salt creep etc.

 

[Jolieve]

I like halides. Most of the hardier softies, like zooanthids and mushrooms will acclimate to the brighter lighting situation, and if things get too bright for them, you can always move them lower in the tank, or build a ledge just above them to shade them from the light somewhat. If you like xenia, xenia umbellata (pom pom xenia) does well under halides.

Anemones... IMO, need halides. I love my 250w DE's... next to the skimmer, they are probably the best purchase I have ever made for this tank.. and... with halides... you can think about sticking a crocea or maxima clam in there... beautiful animals.

J.

 

[ebosshard]

where online is a good place to go to buy metal halides?

what brands to buy, what brands not to buy?

thanks

eric

 

[hillbilly]

Hellolights.com