Newbee introduction.

[FranklinP]

Hello, I have stumbled onto this site in hopes of finding a community of friendly people I can hang out with as I tackle my new tank.

I recently purchased a used acrylic tank. It is 2ftx2ftx8ft. It has lots of "stuff" under it. I have water tested it and it held up to all 1 ton of water. I plan on drilling the bottom tomorrow and setting up a corner over flow by sectioning off both back corners with some thick acrylic.

I would like this to be an introduction for now since it seems that most of my questions can be answered by searching here. How ever I am having problems with the plumbing on a Berlin protein skimmer. Specifically there are two hoses coming out just below the collection cup 3/4" in diameter. Is this the return? This skimmer says it is for 25-250 gallon tanks. The other skimmer is smaller and looks like it sits inside the sump.

Here is a list of what I have. It is all thrown in boxes but looks complete. 2 sealife systems wet dry filters. About 10 gallons each, 2 mag drive non submersible pumps, Metal halide canopy with two bulbs and 4 actinic bulbs. Amp box with wattage switches (to vary light output?) Berlin protein skimmer, Sealife protein skimmer, Lifegard mechanical filter Model AF-94-29 (do I need this ?) 4 ten gallon tanks, 10 power heads of various sizes, Big rubber maid container drilled on the bottom of each end. Control box for a wave maker and of course 250 gallon acrylic tank on custom stand. This was $500 for all.

Another really dumb question, Does the top of the tank need to be covered to prevent evaporation? This one is open and the light hangs from ceiling above tank.

This is a great place BTW. Thanks.

 

[GotDesl]

Welcome! I too am fairly new here so I will leave the questions to those better suited to answer! I know that you will find what you are looking fo here. Sounds like you got quite the deal on the setup!

 

[Fl_Seagull]

Wow what a deal.

To answer your question on the cover. It depends. I always covered my freshwater tanks to minimize the evaporation. Since freshwater hold so much more O2 than saltwater of the same temperature and the lighting issues are so different, this really never caused a problem. With saltwater it might be a problem with gas exchange. But more likely salt build up on the covers will result in reduce light levels to the livestock. For me I will need the evaporation to keep the tank temperature inline.

If you are going for a fish only tank and it is lightly loaded. I would say put the covers on. But also move a way from the MH lights since you don't need them. If you are wanting a SPS tank you should forget about covers. You will want as much light and as consistent of light possible.

 

[ChrisRD]

I agree (sounds like you got a great deal BTW).

If you give us some specifics on what you want to keep in the tank we can probably offer more useful feedback. Also, you may want to try posting something about the skimmer question in the General Discussion Forum (I know we have a few Berlin owners in our midst... ).

Welcome to Reefs.Org.

 

[Len]

To touch on a few questions you had:
The Berlin skimmer really should be used in-sump. The two elbows below the collection cup are the returns (output).

Nope, you don't need the Lifeguard mechanical filter. It's more hassle then it's worth.

I wouldn't cover the top of your tank if your halides are sufficiently far from the water (>6"). As Fl_seagull suggests, salt will build up on it eventually and block a great portion of the incoming light. It also impedes air-to-water gas exchange.

Hope that helps

 

[Anonymous]

How are you planning to section off the overflow compartment? Do you know anything about working with acrylic? You may want to start a whole new topic about this in the DIY forum. That would make a nice thread on it's on.

Welcome to Reefs.org

Louey

 

[FranklinP]

Thankyou for all the help. I have posted in the DIY forum about overflows. The Berlin skimmer has two returns then I guess. They can be returned back to the sump or go up to tank? I would think the pump head would be strained to pump up that high causing reduced output. Thanks again. Frank

 

[ChrisRD]

The Berlin skimmer has two returns then I guess. They can be returned back to the sump or go up to tank?

Back to the sump (ie. let it gravity drain - no head pressure).

 

[FranklinP]

Thanks for the Berlin help.

I guess I will use this post as a central updating tool.

Today I unpacked and tested the lighting. I took it outside and it lit up the entire area even casting a shadow over the sodium light. Really cool.

Anyrate here are the specs from the light that I wrote down. Hamilton technology Corp. Fixture and Amp box.Qty 2-super actinic blue 110 watt bulbs.Qty 2- MH 5500K plus 175 watts bulbs.

As far as what I am going to keep in the tank? I am trying to read up now. I still have at least a month before my "dead rock" I am making is cured.

Still haven't drilled the tank. I am pondering this in another thread in the DIY area.

Thanks again for all the help. Frank

 

[FranklinP]

Well the tank is drilled. I went with 2- 1" stand pipes. Today I added a 1" to 2" fitting reducer to the top of the stand pipe. I used a table saw to cut groves in it. This should act as a skimmer to keep out critters from the stand pipe. The top was covered with a 2" PVC test cap. (Thin cap for non-pressure use). So basically it looks like an upside down funnel or as the kids call it a castle top.

I built the GARF plenum out of 3/4 PVC and Many tees. I need to pick up the screening tomorrow. I plan on using two power heads on each end until the tests show ok per their web site.

I am looking for a tank to go in the bottom of the setup for the wet-dries to drain into before being pumped back to tank. I am thinking about a 30 gallon breeder tank. Still trying to find out what a refugium is and how to build one. I am guess the water comes in one side flows over a wall then through the "DSB" and out another partition but from below??? I can’t find a simple drawing anywhere.

I have tapped the bottom of the wet dry's with a 1" stand pipe that comes just below water level. They are going to sit on top of the breeder tank and drain into it. I posted in DIY if this was ok and got no replies so I did it.

I brought home a toilet tank complete with all the guts today. I plan on mounting it above the tank as a surge device. If I take out the fluid master and make that my inlet it should work. A float attached to the flapper will activate it. Also the toilet has an overflow built into it via the fill pipe. I plan on enclosing the top to hide all this.

My Live rock project looks like krispy cremes. they still need to dry some more. I have to try another way to shape them then to just put them in an oyster shell bed. Can I use lava rock if I soak it for a while?? I guess if it grows stuff it’s ok from what I’ve seen in the searches.

Well that’s were I’m at as of today. I plan on taking some construction pictures and posting up on my website.

 

[FranklinP]

Purchased 250lbs of lava rock today. .20 cents per pound. Lots of interesting shapes. Live sand will be in on Friday. Still looking for Southdown play sand supplier. Have 120lbs of caribsea sand to put on top of play sand in case it is not super white.

Shooting to fill with water in 2 weeks. Thats all for now.

 

[FranklinP]

The tank sat all week full of water to test the stand,look for leaks and make sure my floor was going to hold up. I drained it and added the light diffusers,nylon screen,stand pipes , power heads and a 3" layer of regular playsand covered by another layer of screen. I had concerns over using non-southdown playsand but I have read that it is ok on the bottom layer since no burrowing life can get into it and get cut up due to the top screening. My local pet shop ordered me the wrong sand so I have to wait until Wednesday now before adding the final layer to the DSB.

I constructed a long spray bar going across the top of the tank for the return. It has 4 1" tees with various 45's and 90's. All was left unglued to alow for aiming the jets. After the pump was started I went and bushed the 1" outlets down to 1/2" for stronger flow. The standpipes worked ok but were very loud. I cut off the fitting reducers and went with two 90's in the shape of a U. I drilled several holes in the top of the 90's to break the syphon above the bottom of the U. This is now silent.

The wet dry's are tapped with a 1" stand pipe and the bio -balls will be left in for now. I placed a 30 gallon tank below as a sump. The wet dry's sit on top of it and drain into the sump through the stand pipes. Both the berlin and sealife skimmers are in the sump. I will turn them on after about a month?? I picked up 60lbs of argonite base rock today to add to the lava rock.

The pump is very loud. I plan on placing it on some rubber or foam in sump. It seems to really do the job though. It is rated at 1/4 hp and has a grinding capacity of 1/2" particles so if Nemo tries to stop it he's in for a surprise.

Well thats the update for today. Shooting for something living in about a month to 90 days.

I guess I am doing this right so far? everyone is very quiet. Spending hours per night researching. I really like the Reefs.org recommended book " Natural Reef Aquariums" Thanks.

 

[PeeJ]

Lava rock? Why did you choose lava rock over live rock?

 

[FranklinP]

Lava rock is .20 per pound making it the lowest cost of the base rocks.. Plus since it is light you get alot of bang for the buck. I am going to use the GARF grunge per thier web site to seed it. I also have lots of homemade rock curing made from concrete and oyster shell using the Reefs.org recipe. Thanks.