Calcium reactor/calcium management-what should I buy?

[ebosshard]

220g tank, 10 weeks old, levels are perfect, pods showing up on my rock.

Ordered my upgraded lighting today (3x400 10k MH's, 4x96 pcs)

Have a leather and star polyp doing great for 3 weeks now.

Have a xmas tree work in a piece of coral at the top of the tank that is fairing ok (coral turning a bit brown=not good I am sure).

Want to begin adding some real coral in the next month or so. Will start with an anemone and a clam and move from there.

have a good skimmer (MTC-250) getting the job done.

Have nothing adding calcium today (haven't needed it yet), but know I need something.

While this will be more a softie than hard coral tank, I will end up with my fair share of hard corals in this guy.

What specific recommendations do you have for adding/maintaining calcium? Will spend a few more bucks for something that is real reliable and gets the job done (travel a fair bit and my wife wants nothing to do with anything other than admiring the tank)

Thanks!!

Eric

 

[ChrisRD]

IMO the cheapest/easiest option to start with is using kalkwasser to top-off your evaporation.

In the future, when your Ca/Alk demands are higher, you may want to think about reactors (kalk reactor, calcium reactor or both) or a two-part additive.

I prefer to use the kalk reactor + calcium reactor method as the combination works really well and is very hands-off for long periods of time. It's also very cheap to run after the intial setup costs. Commercial reactors are pretty pricey, but if you're handy, it's fairly easy to DIY a calcium and/or kalk reactor. That's what I did.

 

[Len]

I recommend a Ca reactor. Kalkwasser works pretty well, but it gets very laborious. My philosophy is if you have to do a lot of work to maintain something, it'll eventually not get maintained That's lazy ol' me at least And especially since you travel, kalkwasser really isn't something you (or your wife) wants to keep up with.

I currently use a PM Ca reactor and recommend their units. You're going to need their bigger unit, and adding on a second chamber is a good idea as well. Most reactors I've used have about the same efficacy, but some are easier to service then others. The PM units are relatively easy to maintain and service.

 

[ebosshard]

you would recommend this (from marinedepot.com)?

PMCRP2 Precision Marine Calcium Reactor Package* - includes CR422 Calcium Reactor, Dual Guage CO2 Regulator w/solenoid, 5 lbs CO2 tank, and 8 lbs CaribSea ARM Reactor Media $611.00

seems like a ton of money?

 

[ChrisRD]

It is possible to take some of the work out of dosing kalkwasser or a two-part additive by using dosing pumps, float switches, Nilsen (kalk) reactors, etc.

That said, I agree with Len - a big part of the reason I like reactors is the hands-off aspect. I agree that if something is tedious you won't keep up with it. I also think the calcium reactor is the most hands-off and potent option (especially for a large tank). The only real downside is the initial investment.

And yes, those PM reactor packages from Marine Depot are good deals...

 

[ebosshard]

so the conclusion is to spend $600 on a fancy reactor system that does it all and its hands off?

the precision marine example above, or the Korallin (german) one marine depot wants me to buy is what I need to do?

 

[ChrisRD]

It's definitely worth the money IMO. The other (cheaper) option is to DIY. Also, I've heard good things about MyReef reactors and I believe they are a bit cheaper.

 

[ChrisRD]

BTW, check into how you will do CO2 refills locally before you decide to buy a brand new tank. Some places do a tank swap. If your local place does the swap as opposed to filling your tank, get a used one from them or else when your new tank is empty, you're going to get an old crappy one when you swap it out at refill time...

 

[ebosshard]

FInally some one warns me of something ahead of time!

So I have a Co2 tank that somehow works with this $600 thing.

THe tank runs through teh C02 and I have to get the tank refilled?

Where do I get the tank refilled (dont have a real good LFS)?

How long does a tank last?

 

[Anonymous]

Try a welding supply store for the tank exchange. They'll sell you a used tank to. I paid $84 for a used #20 tank, filled. I think it cost like $20 to exchange it for a charged tank.

Mine has lasted 6 months so far is is still 3/4" full. It is on a 75G tank, so there isn't that many corals.

Louey

 

[ebosshard]

and then don't buy the likley more expensive tank from marinedepot in their package?

 

[ChrisRD]

and then don't buy the likley more expensive tank from marinedepot in their package?

Yeah, that's what I was trying to point out. Find out what you have available locally for refilling before you decide. If the local place does tank swaps I wouldn't bother getting a new tank. If you can get your own tank refilled and you want a nice shiny tank, get a new one.

BTW, I got mine from a local welding supply too and they do swaps for refills.

As for how long the CO2 tank and reactor media last - depends on the size/demand of your reef, how big your reactor is (ie. how much media it holds) and how large your CO2 tank is. CO2 and the reactor media are really cheap. If you use crushed coral for media it's even cheaper. Just check on the phosphate content of anything you're thinking about using for media.

Generally speaking you don't have to mess with anything for months and months at a time once you get things dialed-in.

HTH

 

[ChrisRD]

Eric,

Check out Joe Burger's site. Look under "Links" and then "Calcium Reactor Primer".

http://www.cnidarianreef.com/

HTH

 

[ebosshard]

chris, thanks a ton for the link to joe's site. I am always looking to see what guys with tanks similar to my 220g are doing.

Thanks as always for your help (I am making progress!)

 

[ChrisRD]

You're welcome Eric, glad I could help.

BTW, if you go the DIY route you're probably looking at $300-$350 for the whole setup. That's what I ended-up doing, so let me know if you have questions - I might be able to help.

I based mine (loosely) on Sanjay's design. Just don't use the top he shows - use a reducer and a union (see below) - much easier to seal. Also, I've changed out those little hose barb fittings for John Guest Speed fittings since the pic. You don't really need that needle valve either - using the JG Speed fittings, a ball valve works fine (much cheaper). Feel free to PM or email with questions (or start a thread in the DIY forum) if you're thinking of going this route...

HTH

 

[ebosshard]

any do's/don't for my new procal?