Calling all RO/DI owners, Question

[NHMARINE]

Hello, so I have decided to buy an RO/DI unit for my 80 Gal. tank.
From all these previous threads about RO/DI units and lots of research, I'm sure i will be able to find the right system for my needs.
I see lots of info out there about which unit works and how they work, but not much info on actual set-up.
Do you buy just a storage tank with with a float valve, and throw a heater in there, do you mix the salt as the tank fills , or wait on the salt and just keep in circulating until a couple of days before you're water change. For the most part the water will just be there for the better part of the month (less evaporation out of my tank.)
I would love to see some pictures of some RO/DI set ups or at least some advice on how to do it right the first time.
Thanks for you're help

 

[Anonymous]

usually, you fill enough water, then add salt. Adding salt to insufficient amount of water can cause some of the hard ions (ca, esp.) to precipiate out.

I can post some pic of my setup, but because they on three different location, a diagram will work better... if I can find time to draw one

 

[NHMARINE]

I can post some pic of my setup, but because they on three different location, a diagram will work better... if I can find time to draw one[/quote]

That would be great to see that!!.......Thanks!!

 

[Anonymous]

I am not very professional when it comes to plumbing, so don't following everything I do. All the labels on the units are inaccurate.... I am too lazy to peel them off and relabel them. Read the description below with the corresponding pic instead.

My setup is summerized:
Filter:
1, tap water goes thru 2 sediment prefilters and 2 carbon filters, clear canisters.
2, RO membrane mounted on a SpectraPure bracket, along with the 4 stage pre-filters mentioned above
3, 3 stage DI on a "RO system" bracket, white canisters.

Storage:
1, Two 3gal pressure tanks under the kitchen sink. One 3 gal pressure tank under the stand. Only RO is stored, and there is a carbon post-filter for drinking/cooking.

2, Several large acrylic tanks in my yard for holding waste water for gardening and lawn need.

Control:
1, a solenoid (black thing in front of the 4 stage prefilters in the pic) that turns on/off tap water to the filter on specific time. This helps to reduce membrane creep problem on the RO membrane. The 12v normal-off solenoid get power from a power supply on an appliance timer.

2, a permeate pump that help pump water into the pressure tank. Not helpful if you dump RO into an open tank, but useful if you have a pressurized setup like mine.

3, a SpectraPure LLC that turns on the DI when the water level in the overflow is below certain level.

Sump/Tank:
The 110gal tank has a 60 gal sump right next to it. The water level difference is about 6 inches. The water level in the overflow is about 2 inch below the tank's level, but 4 inch above the sump. There is a LG 3MDQX-SC pump pushing about 1000 gph of water around, most of which is in a closed-loop fashion. The small difference in the sump/tank level enable me to use a moderate pressure pump without putting too much back pressure on it. The ratio of water movement within the tank is about 850gph, and between tank and sump is about 150 gph. Obviously, the plumbing is not very conventional.

 

[Anonymous]

only three attachments per post?!?!

Anyway, here some more...

 

[Anonymous]

As always, everying is constantly "Under Construction"

 

[NHMARINE]

Thank You for you're help, that's a nice set up!!