water chemistry

[ramon6249]

Hello everyone

I am still getting the hang of this whole SW tank think. starteing as slow as I can...I have been reading all I can as well.

Question is what should I keep an eye on...and what are ideal levels for each chemical?

Ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, calcium...ect.

I know the basics. but the more I know the better I feel.
Also is the quick dip testing just as good as the test kits that come with 2-4 differant chemicals and steps? I am currently useing some of the Salifert I think is what they are called, and also a couple of the FasTest.

Thanx for any info
Ramon6249

 

[Anonymous]

The first three you list are easy: you want them to be 0 or as close to it as you can manage. Though nitrate will accumulate at least a little bit as your tank matures and is not a reason to panic.

Salifert are supposed to be one of the better test kits, never yet used 'em myself but have some on order if they ever arrive.

 

[Sugar Magnolia]

I use the salifert test kits and am quite happy with them. They are a bit more pricey than some other brands out there, but they give very reliable results.

Calcium levels should be between 400-450 ppm
Alkilinity should be around 2.9-4.0 meq/L and 8-11 dKH
Magnesium should be between 1300-1500 ppm.

 

[Tackett]

there is something else you dont have listed here and is just as important IMO. Phosphate. Phosphate is a (one) contributer to algae growth. High levels of phosphate will make hair algae spread like wildfire and hinder corals ability to absorb calcium from the water. You need it as near zero as you can get. But its tricky to test for in the fact that if you have any amount of algae growth in your tank, phosphate will be consumed leading you to a skewed reading of zero. So how the hell do you know? Test your source water. Make sure it is free of phosphates, if you dont introduce it, you wont have astronomical numbers. Is this to say that your phosphate level will always be zero in your reef? no. And in my opinion, a zero phosphate reading from a aquarium is skewed. You WILL have at least some reading, and small amounts are actually beneficial due to the fact that it will act as a buffer through weak hydrogen bonds.

 

[Anonymous]

IME, the 'dip' tests aren't as accurate as the reagent tests Ramone. I also have used both the Saifert and Fastest and have found them to be pretty close in readings.

 

[danmhippo]

Salifert is one of the better test kit. I've also used LaMotte before, but didn't like it. Not as userfriendly as salifert and is much more expensive and harder to acquire.

However, after a while, your tank will mature. You will be familiar with the normal parameter for your tank. At then, you can use the stick dip test strips for nitrate, pH, and alk. They are quick and will give you a quick check if everything is in check.

 

[HisKid]

I think that the tests that should be watched are Calcium, Phosphate, Nitrate, and PH. I have never seen Ammonia or Nitrite in my tanks since it cycled. Even then, the ammonia only spiked to .25. Nitrite testing spiked to just over 0 for me also. I guess its all the live rock I started with.

Also I use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals reagent test kits for the basics and Nutrafin reagent test kits for Phosphate and Calcium tests.

I suppose that all the different reagent tests are created about equally. Some look for color change and you count the drops, some are timed tests measured against a color palate. It is really a matter of preference.

I do agree with danmhippo about the dip strips though. You should make sure that your tank is well established before you play around with dip strips. I use the Wardley strips for weekly husbandry, but I also use my reagent kit monthly or if I think there may be a problem with the dip strip test. I also use it for my hospital tank since things that go on in there are best left in there...

 

[ChrisRD]

Hi Ramon,

I didn't notice it mentioned yet, but I'm sure you already know you should check Temps and Salinity/SG (in addition to pH which was already mentioned) frequently. IMO these are probably the most critical parameters once the initial tank cycle is over and ammonia/nitrite are no longer an issue. Temps around 78-82, SG at 1.024 to 1.026 and pH between 8.0 and 8.4 are commonly targeted levels.

As folks have already mentioned, there are a few things you probably won't test much for once your tank is established like Ammonia and Nitrite. Personally, I include Nitrate and Phosphate in that list these days too. I've never had detectable levels of either once a well run system is established. Besides, IMO there are telltale signs of a nutrient problem in the tank long before it's at detectable levels with a kit (nuisance algae being the most obvious one).

Ca, Alk and Mg can be pretty critical parameters as well, especially if you've got lots of calcifying corals/clams in the tank. Not much of a concern in an FO tank though.