Amonia rising... What gives?

[MyMonkey]

Ok. Tank is about one month old. I exchanged a Bio WHeel with the LFS in order to proliferate my tank with good bacteria as they said. Added a few fish, then watched as the Amonia and nitrite levels dropped after maybe one week. The Nitrates stayed at 0. All tested ok two days ago 0,0,0. Then today, tested as .25ppm amonia. What gives? The LFS recommended against a water change in order to facilitate the cycle. However, they also said the cycle should be complete by now. Any suggestions now. Should I have used Bio Spira, or should I use that now? 8O

 

[Anonymous]

What did you put in the tank? Most likely to be something dead in the tank, either a small snail or some rottening seaweed can jack up the ANN a bit.

 

[MyMonkey]

There were many snails in the tank when I got it Used. I have only seen two bumblebee snails. That makes sense, I suppose the hermits could have knocked off a snail or a dozen. Thanks. Should I let it ride or change 20% water?

 

[bhanson]

Do a water change, if the cycle is complete.

 

[Anonymous]

Your LFS is recommending that you use a bio-wheel and not to do water changes?
You need a new LFS, IMO.

 

[WRASSER]

Maybe looking into a wet-dry for the tank instead of the bio-wheel. You will get a little more volume of water out of it, more water flow and better circulation. All and all it will be better 8)

 

[MyMonkey]

Well, I am eventually moving to a sump I believe. But, for now, I suppose maybe an alternate LFS is in the works.

 

[MyMonkey]

Ok. Here's an update. This morning I awoke to a .50 Amonia reading. 8O Did a 20% water change and brought it back to .25ish. :evil: Went to the same LFS today, Sunday. I told them of my odd amonia spike. He guessed the cause was a Chemical indroduced to the system. Such as: Antibacterial Soap, Antibacterial Air Freshener etc... All of which I use by the way. Dadgumit. I have never heard of that. ANyway, bought some Bio-Spira and he gave me some Poly Fill to filter out the antibacterial stuff. Hope this works. :? Thanks for all the input by the way.

 

[mike90]

give it time. the amonia will eventually drop after they turn into nitrates. patience is key in this hobby

 

[Anonymous]

With 50 pounds of live rock and a sand bed it baffles me how you could possibly have an ammonia reading unless; 1 - as stated above, something died and you don't have an adequate population of fireworms yet, or 2 - you are severly lacking on water circulation.

 

[MyMonkey]

This was exactly my thinking. I am confused. However, I just hope the Bio SPira saves the day. I will not hold my breath though. I have not seen any bristleworms since I set up the rocks. Not sure about the fireworms thought. The fish and Hermits are all accounted for. I will wait it out, sounds like the best plan at this point. Thanks.

 

[Anonymous]

Just a thought, what are the other levels in your tank....sg, ph, temp, etc?

 

[MyMonkey]

Ph is 8.4. Sg was tested as "good" by the LFS. On my cheapo SG thing it is right around 1.021. Temp remains in the 76.5 to 77.8 degree range. Does not fluctuate much. Nitrate 0, Nitrites, 0. By the way. It has been teh prescribed 24 hours and no lower amonia levels. I had hoped the Bio SPira would have kicked in by now. Not sure how long it should take. It says Overnight on the packaging. :x

 

[Anonymous]

My next thought is a false positive.

How much waterflow do you have?

 

[Anonymous]

Ph is 8.4. Sg was tested as "good" by the LFS. On my cheapo SG thing it is right around 1.021. Temp remains in the 76.5 to 77.8 degree range. Does not fluctuate much. Nitrate 0, Nitrites, 0. By the way. It has been teh prescribed 24 hours and no lower amonia levels. I had hoped the Bio SPira would have kicked in by now. Not sure how long it should take. It says Overnight on the packaging. :x

If your SG is 1.021 that could explain why you possibly have snails dying off which could cause an ammonia spike. Are you testing your water, or is the LFS?

Also, just so you know "miracle in a bottle" stuff usually isn't mich if a miracle. Cycling a tank is basically waiting for the different bacterial strains to grow and multiply which doesn't happen overnight, even if the bottles promise it will .

 

[Anonymous]

My next thought is a false positive.

(((dawg frowns to herself)))
Wondering that myself, also wondering why the LFS sold him Poly Filter.

 

[MyMonkey]

I test the water as well as have them test it just to be safe. What should the SG be? Also, the bio spira is just to try and help save the fish now. In the future I will be using the fishles method. Darnet.

 

[Anonymous]

Most people keep their Sg at 1.025-6 which is closer to the 'real' reef. A lower SG is helpful if you are trying to fight Ich or other fish parasites but hard on invertibrates.

 

[MyMonkey]

1.026 eh? This may be a problem. I wonder whey then, the manufacturer of my Hydrometer (coralife) as put a bracket around the 1.020 to 1.023 demarcations? Ugh :x Another LFS Story. "So long as it's between those brackets, it's ok."

 

[Anonymous]

1.026 eh? This may be a problem. I wonder whey then, the manufacturer of my Hydrometer (coralife) as put a bracket around the 1.020 to 1.023 demarcations? Ugh :x Another LFS Story. "So long as it's between those brackets, it's ok."

For a long time that WAS the standard for the reasons I gave before, but the thinking has changed, and as I said most people keep it closer to natural seawater. Raise it SLOWLY by using diluted SW as your daily makeup water and slightly higher SG for water changes.

You also might want to invest in a refractometer. They are reliable and cheap insurance.

You can shop for these online and get decent prices...

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem. ... uct=CP2111