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flanders

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Mandarin goby

So I have ultimate plans to ad 1-2 mandarin goby’s to my tank. This and a mated pair of maroon gold clowns are my Must have fish for my overall plans.

I understand that the goby requires various food that the tank must provide and it will take a year or so for the tank to be mature enough to feed them. copepods, amphipods, and mysis shrim

My question is since I have a good 6 months to prepare for their arrival.. what steps can I take to encourage a healthy growth of these creatures

i have space in my sump to include a refrugium approx 7”in by 6 in t should I add these creatures to the tank ?

any experience trying to encourage a healthy population of mandarin food?
 

Juck

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I know you're gonna hate me for this but I'm not so sure a 72g can support 2 mandarin dragonets,, even if it's piled high with LR. My 75g with 90lbs+ LR was pod central until I introduced a Scooter dragonet,,,, he decimated them and after 6 months he started to waste away.

Get up in the middle of the night and have a look around your tank,, there should be pods. If you leave the tank devoid of pod-eaters for 6 months (i.e. don't go and buy a 6-line wrasse) it should be bursting with pods,, but a pair of dragonets would probably mow through them in short order.

You can buy pod starter/culture kits online if you were willing to culture the large number of bugs needed to support 2 of these fish. Sounds like a lot of work.
 

Len

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I'd also only recommend one Mandarin only for your tank. Not much is needed to cultivate pods other then to provide them habitat and food. This means algae :) There's really not much else to it. Any refugium will help; the larger the better of course.
 

WRASSER

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Thanks Lawdawg, i think im going to start a little refuglum with an old piggy-back bio-filter. i will just convert it and hang it on the back of my 150. :wink:
 

flanders

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well.. 2 is proably me being greedy.....

do you think i can proably handle 1 ok and keep him fed?

thanks all

matt
 
A

Anonymous

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WRASSER":3kjlgqkf said:
Thanks Lawdawg, i think im going to start a little refuglum with an old piggy-back bio-filter. i will just convert it and hang it on the back of my 150. :wink:

That's a heck of an idea, mind iffin I steal it Wrasser?
 
A

Anonymous

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WRASSER":gujkwyx1 said:
Nope not at all, unless you make millions :wink:

innocent08.gif


Er, um I'll write ya a check for half, m'kay?
 

WRASSER

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Oh yea, i forgot to ask, My piggy-back has a protien skimmer, can i use the skimmer while it is a refugium?
 
A

Anonymous

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WRASSER":37t9snaq said:
Oh yea, i forgot to ask, My piggy-back has a protien skimmer, can i use the skimmer while it is a refugium?

Is it before, or after the chamber you wanted to use to house the lil crawlies? If it's before, i.e. the water flows from the skimmer to the chamber I think that's okay, but if it's after you'd end up with the pods and/or gametes getting skimmed right out of the water which isn't productive.
 

WRASSER

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It is before, but i think im going to wait on a desicion on what to do with it, i might use that chamber too. thanks
 

ChrisRD

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I take it you're talking about a DIY version of something like this:
http://www.cpraquatic.com/products/aquafuge.html

CPR's version comes with a small feed powerhead - I don't recall what size though. For a DIY project, personally, I would probably go with something like a MJ 400 (about 100 or so GPH) to keep the flow fairly low.

If you have a sump setup with a return pump, you might even be able to split off a small feed from that so you don't have to add another powerhead into the system.
 

ChrisRD

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If you've got live sand and/or rock and/or growing macros in it, yeah, it should provide some denitrification benefits. Of course, how much will depend on how large the hang-on fuge is in relation to the main tank thereby determining how much rock/sand/macro can actually be in it.

Something else to consider if you're having nitrate issues. A good skimmer will help the situation by removing much of the wastes BEFORE they break down and create excess nitrates. OTOH, use of traditional canister filtration, wet/drys, etc. generally make the situation worse.

HTH
 

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