200 gal needs Chiller - what's best?

[jer99]

My 200 gal is doing fine after 2 1/2 months but the temp is going up to about 82.2 sometimes. If I keep one of the two halides on, the temp still gets up to 81.0+ ocassionally, even with a fan and the lower and upper circulation "open" (the aquarium is a custom, with a cabinet door above and a cabinet door below).

The sump has a protein skimmer and is in the basement.

I guess I need a chiller unless someone has a better idea.
What's the best chiller that is quiet, not too large and will help out my situation?

 

[ChrisRD]

IMO 82 is still an OK temp. If there's no danger of going much higher than that I don't think you need a chiller. Summer months may be a problem though depending on where you are located and whether or not you have AC.

 

[Anonymous]

I don't think there is a quite chiller.

What would be best is an inline chiller, with the chiller put in some out of the way place. That is if you decide you need one.

Use the search function at the top of the page to see what hundreds of other people have said about this subject.

 

[cjsrch]

a wet dry or somthing else to make surface area for evaporative cooling. ( prepares to be yelled at for saying the word wetdry)


what the humidity and temp in your house when the tank gets hot?

 

[jer99]

Temp is about 68-70 and humidity about 40-45%
There shouldnt be a problem in the summer as we have central air.

The sump is in the basement and close to the furnace. There is a temp tank between the furnace and the sump. The temp tank registers 68-70 degrees. The area is not excessively hot.

I would rather NOT have to get a cooler.

I currently using only 1 600 watt halide (about 15 inches above the tank) and that seems to keep the temp better. The sump says 78.9 after 7 hours of light.

I'm thinking of doing something with PVC and a fan, in addition to the fan I have but haven't quite formulated what I need to do.

 

[cjsrch]

well do what im doing and build a tall wetdry or if your affraid of a wetdrygetting cloged a tower with baffles to stir the water as it falls.
youd be supprised at how well this can cool a tank. ( all depends on air temp and humidity) you can pull the water temp down to below the air temp

just need to have a good heater or a way to turn it off if things work too well

 

[jer99]

How do you build a wet/dry?

 

[ChrisRD]

Personally, I would just add fans (or use larger ones) if what you're using now isn't quite getting it done...

 

[EVO]

I had a desaster in the tank last summer because the water got above 80 - 85 constantly and there was a parasite infestation. I think bacteria and paracites reproduce at a much faster rate when the temperature is high. I got a CL 280 chiller, treated the fish that made it in the QT tank with coppersafe and maracine. It has been running 75-78 since. Rarely above 80. No more infestations and bacteria problems. I think it makes the whole system more stable. For a 200 gallon you might need something bigger. The chiller is a little noisy when it comes on but it only comes on when the water temp goes above where you set it.

 

[ChrisRD]

The ideal temp to run a reef at is a long standing debate. Many are quick to point out that temps on wild reefs are often well into the 80s. Others are concerned that in our closed systems many things (good and bad) will happen faster at the higher temps and so they should be avoided.

I think the latter is a reasonable concern and I prefer to run below 80 myself (although I have run in the 80s with no troubles), but there are many, many successful reef tanks out there running at the higher (and some would argue, more natural) temps with no issues.

IMO you more likely had problems because of the introduction of a parasite than because of your temps.

JMO

 

[cjsrch]

more important then temp is the stability of the temp
better tyo have it always at 82 lets say then have it go to 82 durring day then swing down when the lights go off
so if you dont end up getting a chiller. get a heater to maintain that temp ( or around 80)
whats the temp at night?

 

[EVO]

I think the effects of high temp also will depend on your bioload. If you have a high load... higher temp will mean more poo and in tern more bacteria. It is also well known that paracites like ick turn over generations much faster in higher temperature.

 

[nthqldfish]

Believe it or not, frozen water in plastic drink bottles placed in the tank work just fine. you can take them out when you reach the desired temp.
Really cheap too!

 

[LA-Lawman]

to touch on the wet/dry bit.... just setup the drip tray with no bio balls or media... it would provide the aeration u need as well,

i agree with the remote inline chiller. You could always plumb it with unions and a by-pass if you ever wanted to take it out of the system for cleaning and such.

if you have your skimmer in the basement why not bury some pipe and use the ground. I have seen a few people do this with great results.

I keep 2 1 gallon milk jugs in the freezer at all times in case of a heat streak... But I also use chiller.

I hope this helps

 

[Omni2226]

well do what im doing and build a tall wetdry or if your affraid of a wetdrygetting cloged a tower with baffles to stir the water as it falls.
youd be supprised at how well this can cool a tank. ( all depends on air temp and humidity) you can pull the water temp down to below the air temp

just need to have a good heater or a way to turn it off if things work too well

This is what they used as AC in buildings long ago. A Big wooden tower (Imagine a slat fence, tall and tilted just a bit) As the water "falls" over the slats it cools the air which is drawn into and through out the building with large fans. Kinda neat to see, Mmm showing my age arent I?