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Clarkii3

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its a 58g oceanic with 1 1", and 4 3/4" holes, planning on having a cls with a 3/4" T. im a super newb when it comes to this, please help me out guys.



bulkheads, other plumbing parts.......




the sump is a 20g long

 

ChrisRD

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Clarkii3":bvh9e44i said:
its a 58g oceanic with 1 1", and 4 3/4" holes, planning on having a cls with a 3/4" T. im a super newb when it comes to this, please help me out guys.
In the pic it looks like two 1" holes and three 3/4" holes.

If that's the case I'd plan on using one of the 1" holes for your drain. I'd probably use the other as the intake for the closed loop and use the 3/4" holes as the outlets.

One precaution in that scenario - it might be a good idea to put a 90 degree elbow pointed down on the closed loop intake to keep it from sucking air at the surface.
 

Clarkii3

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nope theres only 1, 1 incher. heres a diagram of the overflow



is there supposed to be a ball valve there?

return




i think i have the ball valve and union mixed up? should the union be attached to the pvc connected right after the pump?
 

ChrisRD

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Hmmm, sorry - the pic is deceiving.

The drain line setup looks fine to me, but unless you plan to restrict the drain with the valve (which can be risky unless the system is designed to handle a clogged drain) it's not really necessary.

On the return pump sketch the valve and union are mixed up - reverse that. They're also usually closer to the pump (usually as close as practical) so you don't have to remove all that piping when you need to take the pump out for maintenance/replacement.

HTH
 
A

Anonymous

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I like having a valve and union on my drain also. You never know what will come along. The valve should be on the tank side of the union, weather it is the drain or return. Like Chris said put the valve and union close to the pump. If you are going to put them on the drain put them close to the tank.
 

Clarkii3

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im thinking about putting a valve near the drain on a Tee so i can just drain water out for easy water changes
 

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