I have not been on here for a good while now...Been spending more time on other aspects of the hobby..
BUT...
This is a writeup i compiled, with a view to help others....
The intention of the article is not to promote discussion points, but to merely provide a guide for reference purposes.
Equipment
Question - What does a protein skimmer do and do I need one?
Answer – A protein skimmer is, in my opinion, an important bit of hardware that is used in the marine aquarium. What it actually removes is still open to debate, though what is commonly agreed upon is that it removes the impure organics out of the water column. It works by generating thousands of tiny bubbles and forcing the water through these bubbles, which take the organics from the water by using nature itself. The organics in the water are actually attracted to the bubbles and stick to the surface. The bubbles are then separated into a collection cup and the water itself is then returned back to the tank. So, if you’ve ever looked at the skimmer in a marine system that is up and running and wondered what the smelly horrible gunk in a cup on top of this skimmer is, it is the gunk that is potentially floating around inside the water column. Seeing that gunk, and understanding what it is, confirms to me that a Skimmer should be used as we are always striving to get the best environment for the tank inhabitants that is possible. However, that does not make this a must have item to use. There are many reef keepers who feel they do not need to run a protein skimmer. Remember, it’s a personal choice in the end. Protein Skimmers are usually recommended to new hobbyists, as it will help them to maintain a stable environment. Eventually, when enough experience has been gained, you may remove the skimmer if you feel that you know your system sufficiently enough.
Question –I am thinking of starting up a marine tank. What filter do I need?
Answer – Filtration of a marine aquarium can come from many many different sources. The two main sources of note here is the usual canister filter or hob/hot (hang on back/hang on tank) and live rock. The “general” opinion is that a marine aquarium does not need an added filter if you provide the tank with an adequate quantity of live rock. When an adequate quantity is being referred to here, I am referring to 1 – 1.5lbs of live rock per gallon of tank water. This amount of live rock will provide all the mechanical filtration that is required as well as provide a large surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to colonize on. Of course, there are the people who only want a small amount of live rock in their tank to either save on cost or they don’t like the space of the tank that gets swallowed up by vast quantities of rock. So, the next viable solution is to go down the route of adding a canister filter. When buying a canister for the tank, always ensure that you buy one that is rated for your size of your tank. People choose certain canister filters because they work on the media basket principle. That means that inside the filter, there is a stack of plastic trays that contain the media. Typically, there are usually 3 baskets. The first basket contains course filter floss to catch large particles, the second one contains a fine floss media which is designed to catch all the finer particles like sand and such, the third contains a bag of activated carbon media to polish the water before it gets returned back to the tank. With this type of filtration, the bacteria colonize on the filter floss instead of the live rock surface. The main point to note is that they “could” cause a raise in nitrates if they are not cleaned weekly in tank water (not fresh water).
Question – Do I need a Reverse Osmosis (RO) unit?
Answer – The general opinion is yes you do. However, before I explain further, it is always worth getting a water report from your local water authority to get the water parameters, as there are some in the marine world that CAN get away without buying one. So, why do we need one? The main answer to this question is Algae. Its one of the main issues that are seen in an aquarium is nuisance algae. Nuisance algae will feed off two common things found in our tap water, Nitrates and Phosphates. So, in order for us to be able to remove this cause from the equation is we need to have a filter (RO Unit) setup to cleanse the tap water before it goes into our tanks. This is achieved by forcing water through a series of membranes to effectively remove chlorine, chloramines, metal particles, nitrates and phosphates (and many other components). The pure water is then deposited into a container for tank usage. On top of the standard RO unit, we also have an RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis + De-Ionizing) unit available. The extra De-Ionizing unit will effectively remove the Ion particles from the water giving us even more pure water than the standard RO Unit.
Question – I have been given a full marine system, but it’s been left standing out in the garage for months on end. How do I clean it?
Answer – One proven method of cleaning is by using a solution of White Vinegar and water, mixed in equal (50/50) amounts.
Question - How long does it take for a skimmer to "break in"?
Answer – Cleaning wise, I always recommend that the skimmer be completely stripped down, washed well in warm soapy water, rinsed well in cold running water and re-assembled before use. Why? Because when plastic components are made at the manufacturer, the plastic is coated in a protective film. This plays a big part in interfering with how the skimmer reacts to the air/water mixture.
Question - Could you use halogen lights for over a marine tank?
Answer – The answer to this common question is no. Halogen lighting does not produce the correct par rating that corals require to live, feed and thrive. The most common halogen lights are average 500w 6700k. The range of lighting required by corals is in the range of 10k up to 20k. The differences between the normal coral lightings are: -
1) 10k – Yellow
2) 14k – White
3) 20k – Blue
The bulb that you select for your lighting will depend on what corals you have in your tank, as well as some personal preference. Most people tend to go for the 14k bulbs as this gives off a nice white light and add some actinic blue lighting separately to enhance the coral in the tank. Halogen bulbs, at 6700k are a very yellow light, as most of us have seen the colour lighting a floodlight gives out.
Question - I guess I should get a protein skimmer - should I also get a seperate internal pump just for better water circulation?
Answer – Water circulation inside a marine system is of paramount importance. Without circulation, we have dead areas in the tank where detritus and food particles build up. These no flow areas will start to generate nitrates and phosphates un-necessarily and will, in turn, start to feed algae and bacteria. So, when discussing circulation in the aquarium, we have a few factors that need to be considered. Is it going to be a Fish Only (FO)/Fish Only with Live Rock or a Reef (FOWLR). If it is going to be FO/FOWLR, then the water flow can be quite mild, and we are only talking 10x water circulation per hour (Aquarium volume (gallons) x 10)). Or if its going to a Reef tank, then we need a good high flow around due to the corals, and for this it is recommended to be about 25x water circulation per hour (Aquarium volume (gallons) x 25)).
Water
Question – What water test kits do I need and what should my parameters be?
Answer – Some people do make the common mistake of rushing out and buying a test kit without realizing what it is they are buying. There are mainly two different types of test kits commonly available on the market. They are Saltwater and Freshwater. Yes, there are some freshwater test kits that can be used on saltwater, but it’s best to buy the correct ones to keep on the right foot from the beginning. The basic test kits that people should have shall be split into two, Reefs and Fish Only.
Reefs – The “basic” test kits that you should have if you are starting out down the full Reef route are Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Alkalinity, Magnesium, Calcium and Phosphate.
Fish Only (FO) or FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) – The “basic” tests here need to be Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH.
The levels at which the tests for a Reef should ideally be are: -
Ammonia NH3 – 0 (Zero)
NitrITE NO2 – 0 (Zero)
NitrATE NO3 – < 0.2 ppm (parts per million)
pH – 8.1 to 8.4
Alkalinity – 8 – 12 dKH
Magnesium – 1250 – 1350 ppm
Calcium – 350 – 450 ppm
Phosphate PO4 - < 0.2 ppm
Iodine – 0.06 – 0.10 ppm
Strontium – 8 – 14 ppm
The levels at which the tests for a FOWLR or Fish Only should ideally be are: -
Ammonia NH3 – 0 (Zero)
NitrITE NO2 – 0 (Zero)
NitrATE NO3 – < 30 ppm (parts per million)
pH – 8.1 to 8.4
Question - What temperature should my tank be set at?
Answer – 72 -78 Degrees F
Question – What is SG or salinity?
Answer - SG or “Specific Gravity” is a term referring to the amount of Ion’s in fresh water. These Ions’s include salt, minerals and elements. SG does not refer to salinity, which is a common mistake. Salinity is the total weight of solutes in seawater.
Question – What should the SG of my tank be?
Answer – The actual salinity of actual ocean water is roughly about 1.022 to 1.035, depending on where it is tested. For example, the Caribbean has an SG of 1.0223 to 1.026. What we usually aim for in the marine aquarium is a balance of artificial and natural and we usually end up 1.023 to 1.025. Some aquarists use a Hydrometer to measure the SG of the saltwater. However, another great bit of equipment that is available is a Refractometer. A Refractometer is a simple to use, optical instrument that gives a direct, temperature compensated reading of specific gravity and salinity.
Question – How often do I have to do a water change and what type of water is used to bring the aquarium back up to its full mark.
Answer – As a general rule of thumb, a weekly 10% water change with pre-mixed saltwater should be adequate to remove impurities from the aquarium and to replenish trace elements. The water change is the main way to keep a good balance of trace elements. If water changes are not carried out very frequently, then additives should be used to keep trace elements such as iodine, calcium and strontium at a correct level.
When we are topping off the aquarium due to evaporation, we only use fresh RO water. Why do we not use saltwater to fill it back up? Well, when water evaporates from the aquarium, the salt is left behind, and if we are topping the system back up with saltwater, the SG will continually rise as we are adding salt back in to the tank. Thus, just by adding fresh RO water, we aim to keep the SG the same, as the salt is still part of the water column in the tank.
Live Rock
Question - One thing i was wondering is how do i really tell when it’s done curing?
Answer – One of the simplest ways of telling if your live rock is cured, is by smell. When you smell cured live rock, all you should be able to smell is salt water/tank water. One of the biggest indicators of un-cured live rock is a rotten smell/odour.
Of course, when you’re standing in a Local Fish Store, this next method is not always possible. This method is by simple water tests. Test the water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If it is cured, there will be Zero Ammonia, nitrite and maybe zero nitrates. However, a low reading of nitrates is more than acceptable.
Question - A lot of people stack rock to form a structure for their aquarium. Why do some glue these rocks together? Why not leave them natural?
Answer – There are a few simple reasons why we glue or join rock together in the tank. The main reason is for stability. There are many fish and inverts that can easily dislodge or knock over rock in the tank while they are feeding off it, moving around the tank or simply building a home there. An example of this is the goby that will dig in the substrate underneath the rock, creating a tunnel complex which is it home. Another reason is so that we can achieve the look that we want. Live rock does not always fit together and sit in the tank how we would like it so we use marine safe Epoxy, acrylic rods or tubes to design the desired live rock layout.
Question - I am looking at getting some rock, should I get anything in particular?
Answer – The type of live rock that we use in the aquarium, for the most part, is down to personal choice. The goal of building the backbone to the Reef and achieving adequate filtration by rock alone can be accomplished using various types. A few are listed here
Aqua-cultured - This is basically man made rock created using concrete, shell and sand. This rock is then taken out to sea and left to culture, and then brought back and sold.
Imported/Exported – This is rock that has actually come direct from Reefs, or reef farms.
The main thing that every hobbyist is looking for when purchasing live rock is how well it’s cured and how well coralline algae has grown on the rock. The first is the important one as the better cured it is, the less of a spike in water parameters your likely to have when it’s introduced. The amount of coralline algae on the rock is not such an important factor. When live rock is introduced into an aquarium, coralline will grow providing there is adequate calcium and lighting available.
Question - I have a couple aiptasia budding in my 15gallon tank, i was wondering how i could get rid of them?
Answer – Aiptasia are one of the most common pest anemones in the marine system. They sting quite well and reproduce at an alarming rate. There are various methods of removal available
Joes Juice – This is administered by either injecting the liquid into the anemones mouth or through the side of the stem, and can also be gently dropped into the anemones mouth via pipette or syringe. The down side of this method is that you have to be careful with how much you use, as it will affect water parameters.
Boiling water – By far the cheapest method as it involves no cost and can be produced at a moments notice. With this method, all that is required is to fill a syringe with the boiling water and blast the anemone with the water and it will effectively melt. A major plus of this method is that it is not going to have an effect on the water parameters, no matter how much you use.
True Peppermint Shrimp – This method of removal is sometimes considered a control, rather than eradication of Aiptasia. Peppermint shrimps are quite a good way to keep Aiptasia under control. It is suggested that if you have an outbreak of anemones, you should use one of the methods above and then buy true peppermint shrimps to eat any that grow back. One thing to keep in mind is that there is NEVER going to be a guarantee that true peppermint shrimp will eat the anemones.
There are of course other methods of Aiptasia removal and control that are not listed here, but the above two suggested methods, Joes Juice and boiling water are a method of removing Aiptasia and the method using Peppermint Shrimps are a way to control them.
Question - Bought 10 lbs of base rock today. I’m wondering how to cure it. Do I just wash it with salt water or plain water?
Answer – The curing of base rock (not dead rock) is a very lengthy process. Depending on the type of rock, it can take up to a year for base rock to become live at the same levels as the existing live rock, or pre cured live rock.
If you intend to be using base rock when you are setting up a marine aquarium, aim to put the base rock on the bottom of the tank, and then cover this with cured live rock. As a ratio, you ideally want to be aiming for at least 60% live rock to 40% base rock. This is to aid in the seeding of the base from the live rock, and is done in an acceptable time scale.
If you want to buy some base rock, and actually cure it outside of the aquarium, then it needs to be cured in a Rubbermaid container or separate tank, and normal live rock included to aid in seeding the rock. Again, this is going to be a very lengthy process.
Question – My tank has been running a few weeks and I am starting to get a covering of brown all over my rock and sand. What is it and should I be worried about it? How am I supposed to remove it?
Answer – All new aquariums have to go through a first initial stage of getting established. One of the commonly seen parts of this is a “Diatom Algae Bloom”. This is the covering of brown algae all over the rock, sand and glass. Diatoms are basically single celled microscopic forms. Diatoms feed mainly off silicates or silica acid in the aquarium, and when the silicates start to fade and reduce, so does the diatoms. The amount of silicates available will determine that strength of the diatom bloom. This is something that we just have to live with and live through. It does pass, but takes a little time. We just have to ensure that we keep good flow in the tank, and maybe siphon out any large build up.
Sand
Question - What type of sand do we have to use?
Answer – There is no type of sand that you “have” to use, however, there are some types of sand, which are recommended. The most common type of substrate used in today’s marine aquaria is Aragonite Reef Sand. This type of sand is very fine and is roughly equivalent to sugar grain size. The type of sand offers a very good buffering agent for keeping the pH in balance. As an average weight, you will need roughly 1lb of sand per gallon of water.
Question - Can use silica sand for my bottom?
Answer – Silica sand is not a good choice for marine substrate; it will do nothing to buffer pH, is very two-dimensional to support microbial life, and will compact very easily and create anaerobic zones.
Question - What is the big deal with the amount of sand used?
Answer – The amount of sand used in the tank is mainly dependant on personal preference. A deep sand bed will allow anaerobic bacteria to convert the nitrates in the tank water into a harmless by product, Nitrogen and the nitrogen gas will then get released by our sand stirring fish and inverts.
Question - Is it possible to use good old beach sand from the Ocean?
Answer – Beach sand is probably one of the worst types of sand to collect and use as a substrate in your aquarium. It is mainly going to be high in silica content, which will lead to algae blooms in the tank. The other issue to consider is pollutants. How many times have you been at the beach and seen the waste and gunk on the beach? This question sort of answers itself. Would you want that to be going into your aquarium? You basically have no idea what has been passed through the sand that you’re collecting which turns it into an unknown quantity. You ALWAYS need to know and understand what is going into your system.
Fish
Question – What fish can I keep in my Nano or 30 Gallon tank?
Answer – Below is a list of common fish that can be kept in tanks of 30 Gallons or less.
Basslets
Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Chalk Basslet (Serranus tortugarum) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Blennies
Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor) Length: 4", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Black and Yellow Blenny (Ecsenius lividanalis) Length: 2", Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
Two Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura) Length: 2-1/2", Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
Two Spot Bimaculatus Blenny (Ecsenius bimaculatus) Length: 1-1/2", Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
Cardinalfish
Bangai Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Flame Cardinal (Apogon sp.) Length: 4", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Pajama Cardinal (Sphaeramia nematoptera) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Clownfish
Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion percula) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Pink Skunk Clownfish (Amphiprion perideraion) Length: 4", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Tomato Clownfish (Amphiprion frenatus) Length: 5", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Dartfish
Orange Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica) Length: 3"
Purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora) Length: 3"
Gobies
Clown Gobies
Yellow (Gobiodon okinawae) Length: 1-1/2”
Green (Gobiodon atrangulatus) Length: 1-1/2”
Citrinis (Gobiodon citrinis) Length: 2”
Brown (Gobiodon sp) Length: 1-1/2”
Black (Gobiodon strangulates) Length: 1-1/2”
Panda (Paragobius lacunicolus) Length: 1-1/2”
Blue Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) Length: 2”
Golden Neon Goby (Elacatinus sp.) Length: 3”
Greenbanded Goby (Elacatinus multifasciatus) Length: 2”
Red Head Goby (Elacatinus puncticulatus) Length: 2”
Trimma Goby (Trimma sp.) Length: 1”
Red Striped Goby (Trimma cana) Length: 1”
Yellow Watchman Goby (Cryptcentrus cinctus) Length: 3”
Orange Stripe Prawn Goby (Amblyeleotris randalli) Length: 3-1/2”
Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes) Length: 1-1/2”
Two Spot Goby (Signigobius biocellatus) Length: 3”
Hawkfish
Falco Hawkfish (Cirrhitichty falco) Length: 3”
Flame Hawkfish (Neocirrhitus armatus) Length: 4”
Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus) Length: 5”
Pseudochromis
Fridman’s Pseudochromis (Pseudochomris fridmani) Length: 3”
Neon Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis aldabraensis) Length: 4”
Bicolor Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis paccagnellae) Length: 2”
Springer’s Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis springeri) Length: 3-1/2”
Wrasses
Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheillinus hexataenia) Length: 3”
Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse (Paracheillinus carpenteri) Length: 3”
Yellow Fin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus flavidorsalis) Length: 3”
Exquisite Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus exquisitus) Length: 4”
Question – Can I make my own fish food?
Answer - Yes, certainly. The first thing that needs to be assessed is what inhabitants you have in the aquarium and then use that knowledge as a basis to create your own food. Some of the very commonly purchased foods from a local fishmonger include Scallops, Krill, Silverside, Squid (remove the ink pack), Clams, and Raw Tiger Prawn. All these types of seafood can be coarsely chopped or blended, frozen in ice trays and put in the freezer. This then gives you a good staple diet or various food types and is far cheaper than buying commercially branded products.
Added into this seafood mix is Nori dried seaweed, vitamins and garlic. The Nori gives that extra balance of available food and the garlic gives the natural immune system a good boost.
Inverts
Question – My Coral Banded Shrimp has lost an arm. Will it grow back?
Answer – The basic answer to this is yes, however this will be achieved over a series of moults providing a good concentration of iodine is present in the water column.
Question – What are all the different snails and crabs? And what do they all do?
Answer – I shall split this into two parts, snails and crabs for ease of reading.
Snails (All Reef Safe)
Turbo Snail – These are an algae eating snail. They will happily graze on the live rock or glass. One of the most common snails in the home aquaria.
Nerite Snail – These feed on Cyanobacteria, algae and detrius. A good scavenger snail.
Nassarius Snail – A real good scavenger snail as these will feed on fish waste, uneaten foods and decaying organics. People have mentioned these before to be a threat in the home aquarium by preying on a sick fish. However, the fish will normally be near enough dead before these snails start to consume the fish.
Trochus Snail – Very similar feeding habits of the Nerite snail as it will feed on Cyanobacteria, algae and detritus. Point to note with these is that they are usually unable to turn themselves over when upside down on the sand bed and does require human intervention.
Astraea Snail – Predominantly this is an algae grazer and will spend time either on the side of the aquarium or on the rock. Again, if these fall upside down on the sand bed, they will require human intervention.
Mexican Turbo Snail – Another of the most common snails in the home aquarium. This type of snail feeds a lot on film algae and will spend most, if not all of its time on the glass of the tank.
Cerith Snail – This type of snail is deemed as the best snail to have in the home aquarium due to the types of food this snail feeds on. This type of snail will feed on detrius, decaying matter, food waste, fish waste and many types of plague algae. This snail will spend all its time buried in the sand bed and will always surface when the tank is being fed.
Crabs (Reef Safe unless stated)
Blue Leg Hermit – This type of hermit crab will feed on cyanobacteria and green hair algae. Another valuable part this crab plays is that it will stir up the sand bed as it walks.
Red Leg Hermit – This no different in manner or actions than the blue leg hermit.
Zebra Hermit – As per the blue leg hermit. The only difference is that this hermit has one larger claw, which it will use to defend its home.
Sally Lightfoot Crab – This type of crab will feed off detrius and algae. There is a possibility of this crab feeding on small invertebrates or fish when it reaches full-grown size and, as such, is classed as semi-aggressive.
Mithrax Crab – These crabs will readily eat algae as its primary food source, however, they will also scavenge meat to supplement their own diet. These crabs are ideal for dealing with bubble algae.
Decorator Crab – (Not Reef Safe) this crab will feed on crabs, snails and soft corals. Its primary diet is meaty foods.
Stag horn Crab – (Not Reef Safe) this type of crab is ideally suited for spending life in the refugium, as it’s natural home is the rock rubble areas of the reef. Its main food source is the same as normal hermit crabs. This type of crab is usually recommended for the advanced aquarist who understands the needs for a biotope system.
Corals
Question - What is the different between soft coral, SPS and LPS coral?
Answer - Soft corals are types of coral that do not have a skeleton and as such, will simply droop over if there is no water flow around them. SPS Corals are small polyp stony corals. This type has small polyps over a stony skeleton. LPS or large polyp stony has large polyps on stony skeleton.
Question – What can I use to attach a coral frag to a lump of live rock?
Answer – Depending on the type of coral, there are various different methods used to achieve this. A couple of the more common ways of attaching is by either using Superglue Gel or marine safe Epoxy. However, these two options may not always be acceptable. Other basic ways are to use a cocktail stick to hold it in place, nylon fishing line or elastic bands. All methods are tried and true with a proven track record. All you’re trying to achieve is to keep the coral in place until it attaches itself to the live rock. If you have used fishing line, elastic bands or a cocktail stick, they can be removed afterwards. A lot of people worry about using marine epoxy due to the colour being very apparent (grey or white), however, this will eventually be covered over with coralline algae and will not be seen.
Question – I want some hardy corals to start of with, as I am a beginner. What would you suggest?
Answer – Some very basic, hardy and easy to look after corals are Finger Leather, Cabbage leather, Toadstool leather, Colt coral, and most tree corals, Mushroom, Zooanthid Polyps, Yellow or Green Star Polyps.
I hope you enjoy this article and maybe learn from my experience of keeping marine aquaria, and maybe in the future, pass this knowledge on to somebody else that is new.
Everything contained in this article is merely my own opinions and knowledge. It is, however, backed up by practical experience.
BUT...
This is a writeup i compiled, with a view to help others....
The intention of the article is not to promote discussion points, but to merely provide a guide for reference purposes.
Equipment
Question - What does a protein skimmer do and do I need one?
Answer – A protein skimmer is, in my opinion, an important bit of hardware that is used in the marine aquarium. What it actually removes is still open to debate, though what is commonly agreed upon is that it removes the impure organics out of the water column. It works by generating thousands of tiny bubbles and forcing the water through these bubbles, which take the organics from the water by using nature itself. The organics in the water are actually attracted to the bubbles and stick to the surface. The bubbles are then separated into a collection cup and the water itself is then returned back to the tank. So, if you’ve ever looked at the skimmer in a marine system that is up and running and wondered what the smelly horrible gunk in a cup on top of this skimmer is, it is the gunk that is potentially floating around inside the water column. Seeing that gunk, and understanding what it is, confirms to me that a Skimmer should be used as we are always striving to get the best environment for the tank inhabitants that is possible. However, that does not make this a must have item to use. There are many reef keepers who feel they do not need to run a protein skimmer. Remember, it’s a personal choice in the end. Protein Skimmers are usually recommended to new hobbyists, as it will help them to maintain a stable environment. Eventually, when enough experience has been gained, you may remove the skimmer if you feel that you know your system sufficiently enough.
Question –I am thinking of starting up a marine tank. What filter do I need?
Answer – Filtration of a marine aquarium can come from many many different sources. The two main sources of note here is the usual canister filter or hob/hot (hang on back/hang on tank) and live rock. The “general” opinion is that a marine aquarium does not need an added filter if you provide the tank with an adequate quantity of live rock. When an adequate quantity is being referred to here, I am referring to 1 – 1.5lbs of live rock per gallon of tank water. This amount of live rock will provide all the mechanical filtration that is required as well as provide a large surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to colonize on. Of course, there are the people who only want a small amount of live rock in their tank to either save on cost or they don’t like the space of the tank that gets swallowed up by vast quantities of rock. So, the next viable solution is to go down the route of adding a canister filter. When buying a canister for the tank, always ensure that you buy one that is rated for your size of your tank. People choose certain canister filters because they work on the media basket principle. That means that inside the filter, there is a stack of plastic trays that contain the media. Typically, there are usually 3 baskets. The first basket contains course filter floss to catch large particles, the second one contains a fine floss media which is designed to catch all the finer particles like sand and such, the third contains a bag of activated carbon media to polish the water before it gets returned back to the tank. With this type of filtration, the bacteria colonize on the filter floss instead of the live rock surface. The main point to note is that they “could” cause a raise in nitrates if they are not cleaned weekly in tank water (not fresh water).
Question – Do I need a Reverse Osmosis (RO) unit?
Answer – The general opinion is yes you do. However, before I explain further, it is always worth getting a water report from your local water authority to get the water parameters, as there are some in the marine world that CAN get away without buying one. So, why do we need one? The main answer to this question is Algae. Its one of the main issues that are seen in an aquarium is nuisance algae. Nuisance algae will feed off two common things found in our tap water, Nitrates and Phosphates. So, in order for us to be able to remove this cause from the equation is we need to have a filter (RO Unit) setup to cleanse the tap water before it goes into our tanks. This is achieved by forcing water through a series of membranes to effectively remove chlorine, chloramines, metal particles, nitrates and phosphates (and many other components). The pure water is then deposited into a container for tank usage. On top of the standard RO unit, we also have an RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis + De-Ionizing) unit available. The extra De-Ionizing unit will effectively remove the Ion particles from the water giving us even more pure water than the standard RO Unit.
Question – I have been given a full marine system, but it’s been left standing out in the garage for months on end. How do I clean it?
Answer – One proven method of cleaning is by using a solution of White Vinegar and water, mixed in equal (50/50) amounts.
Question - How long does it take for a skimmer to "break in"?
Answer – Cleaning wise, I always recommend that the skimmer be completely stripped down, washed well in warm soapy water, rinsed well in cold running water and re-assembled before use. Why? Because when plastic components are made at the manufacturer, the plastic is coated in a protective film. This plays a big part in interfering with how the skimmer reacts to the air/water mixture.
Question - Could you use halogen lights for over a marine tank?
Answer – The answer to this common question is no. Halogen lighting does not produce the correct par rating that corals require to live, feed and thrive. The most common halogen lights are average 500w 6700k. The range of lighting required by corals is in the range of 10k up to 20k. The differences between the normal coral lightings are: -
1) 10k – Yellow
2) 14k – White
3) 20k – Blue
The bulb that you select for your lighting will depend on what corals you have in your tank, as well as some personal preference. Most people tend to go for the 14k bulbs as this gives off a nice white light and add some actinic blue lighting separately to enhance the coral in the tank. Halogen bulbs, at 6700k are a very yellow light, as most of us have seen the colour lighting a floodlight gives out.
Question - I guess I should get a protein skimmer - should I also get a seperate internal pump just for better water circulation?
Answer – Water circulation inside a marine system is of paramount importance. Without circulation, we have dead areas in the tank where detritus and food particles build up. These no flow areas will start to generate nitrates and phosphates un-necessarily and will, in turn, start to feed algae and bacteria. So, when discussing circulation in the aquarium, we have a few factors that need to be considered. Is it going to be a Fish Only (FO)/Fish Only with Live Rock or a Reef (FOWLR). If it is going to be FO/FOWLR, then the water flow can be quite mild, and we are only talking 10x water circulation per hour (Aquarium volume (gallons) x 10)). Or if its going to a Reef tank, then we need a good high flow around due to the corals, and for this it is recommended to be about 25x water circulation per hour (Aquarium volume (gallons) x 25)).
Water
Question – What water test kits do I need and what should my parameters be?
Answer – Some people do make the common mistake of rushing out and buying a test kit without realizing what it is they are buying. There are mainly two different types of test kits commonly available on the market. They are Saltwater and Freshwater. Yes, there are some freshwater test kits that can be used on saltwater, but it’s best to buy the correct ones to keep on the right foot from the beginning. The basic test kits that people should have shall be split into two, Reefs and Fish Only.
Reefs – The “basic” test kits that you should have if you are starting out down the full Reef route are Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Alkalinity, Magnesium, Calcium and Phosphate.
Fish Only (FO) or FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) – The “basic” tests here need to be Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH.
The levels at which the tests for a Reef should ideally be are: -
Ammonia NH3 – 0 (Zero)
NitrITE NO2 – 0 (Zero)
NitrATE NO3 – < 0.2 ppm (parts per million)
pH – 8.1 to 8.4
Alkalinity – 8 – 12 dKH
Magnesium – 1250 – 1350 ppm
Calcium – 350 – 450 ppm
Phosphate PO4 - < 0.2 ppm
Iodine – 0.06 – 0.10 ppm
Strontium – 8 – 14 ppm
The levels at which the tests for a FOWLR or Fish Only should ideally be are: -
Ammonia NH3 – 0 (Zero)
NitrITE NO2 – 0 (Zero)
NitrATE NO3 – < 30 ppm (parts per million)
pH – 8.1 to 8.4
Question - What temperature should my tank be set at?
Answer – 72 -78 Degrees F
Question – What is SG or salinity?
Answer - SG or “Specific Gravity” is a term referring to the amount of Ion’s in fresh water. These Ions’s include salt, minerals and elements. SG does not refer to salinity, which is a common mistake. Salinity is the total weight of solutes in seawater.
Question – What should the SG of my tank be?
Answer – The actual salinity of actual ocean water is roughly about 1.022 to 1.035, depending on where it is tested. For example, the Caribbean has an SG of 1.0223 to 1.026. What we usually aim for in the marine aquarium is a balance of artificial and natural and we usually end up 1.023 to 1.025. Some aquarists use a Hydrometer to measure the SG of the saltwater. However, another great bit of equipment that is available is a Refractometer. A Refractometer is a simple to use, optical instrument that gives a direct, temperature compensated reading of specific gravity and salinity.
Question – How often do I have to do a water change and what type of water is used to bring the aquarium back up to its full mark.
Answer – As a general rule of thumb, a weekly 10% water change with pre-mixed saltwater should be adequate to remove impurities from the aquarium and to replenish trace elements. The water change is the main way to keep a good balance of trace elements. If water changes are not carried out very frequently, then additives should be used to keep trace elements such as iodine, calcium and strontium at a correct level.
When we are topping off the aquarium due to evaporation, we only use fresh RO water. Why do we not use saltwater to fill it back up? Well, when water evaporates from the aquarium, the salt is left behind, and if we are topping the system back up with saltwater, the SG will continually rise as we are adding salt back in to the tank. Thus, just by adding fresh RO water, we aim to keep the SG the same, as the salt is still part of the water column in the tank.
Live Rock
Question - One thing i was wondering is how do i really tell when it’s done curing?
Answer – One of the simplest ways of telling if your live rock is cured, is by smell. When you smell cured live rock, all you should be able to smell is salt water/tank water. One of the biggest indicators of un-cured live rock is a rotten smell/odour.
Of course, when you’re standing in a Local Fish Store, this next method is not always possible. This method is by simple water tests. Test the water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If it is cured, there will be Zero Ammonia, nitrite and maybe zero nitrates. However, a low reading of nitrates is more than acceptable.
Question - A lot of people stack rock to form a structure for their aquarium. Why do some glue these rocks together? Why not leave them natural?
Answer – There are a few simple reasons why we glue or join rock together in the tank. The main reason is for stability. There are many fish and inverts that can easily dislodge or knock over rock in the tank while they are feeding off it, moving around the tank or simply building a home there. An example of this is the goby that will dig in the substrate underneath the rock, creating a tunnel complex which is it home. Another reason is so that we can achieve the look that we want. Live rock does not always fit together and sit in the tank how we would like it so we use marine safe Epoxy, acrylic rods or tubes to design the desired live rock layout.
Question - I am looking at getting some rock, should I get anything in particular?
Answer – The type of live rock that we use in the aquarium, for the most part, is down to personal choice. The goal of building the backbone to the Reef and achieving adequate filtration by rock alone can be accomplished using various types. A few are listed here
Aqua-cultured - This is basically man made rock created using concrete, shell and sand. This rock is then taken out to sea and left to culture, and then brought back and sold.
Imported/Exported – This is rock that has actually come direct from Reefs, or reef farms.
The main thing that every hobbyist is looking for when purchasing live rock is how well it’s cured and how well coralline algae has grown on the rock. The first is the important one as the better cured it is, the less of a spike in water parameters your likely to have when it’s introduced. The amount of coralline algae on the rock is not such an important factor. When live rock is introduced into an aquarium, coralline will grow providing there is adequate calcium and lighting available.
Question - I have a couple aiptasia budding in my 15gallon tank, i was wondering how i could get rid of them?
Answer – Aiptasia are one of the most common pest anemones in the marine system. They sting quite well and reproduce at an alarming rate. There are various methods of removal available
Joes Juice – This is administered by either injecting the liquid into the anemones mouth or through the side of the stem, and can also be gently dropped into the anemones mouth via pipette or syringe. The down side of this method is that you have to be careful with how much you use, as it will affect water parameters.
Boiling water – By far the cheapest method as it involves no cost and can be produced at a moments notice. With this method, all that is required is to fill a syringe with the boiling water and blast the anemone with the water and it will effectively melt. A major plus of this method is that it is not going to have an effect on the water parameters, no matter how much you use.
True Peppermint Shrimp – This method of removal is sometimes considered a control, rather than eradication of Aiptasia. Peppermint shrimps are quite a good way to keep Aiptasia under control. It is suggested that if you have an outbreak of anemones, you should use one of the methods above and then buy true peppermint shrimps to eat any that grow back. One thing to keep in mind is that there is NEVER going to be a guarantee that true peppermint shrimp will eat the anemones.
There are of course other methods of Aiptasia removal and control that are not listed here, but the above two suggested methods, Joes Juice and boiling water are a method of removing Aiptasia and the method using Peppermint Shrimps are a way to control them.
Question - Bought 10 lbs of base rock today. I’m wondering how to cure it. Do I just wash it with salt water or plain water?
Answer – The curing of base rock (not dead rock) is a very lengthy process. Depending on the type of rock, it can take up to a year for base rock to become live at the same levels as the existing live rock, or pre cured live rock.
If you intend to be using base rock when you are setting up a marine aquarium, aim to put the base rock on the bottom of the tank, and then cover this with cured live rock. As a ratio, you ideally want to be aiming for at least 60% live rock to 40% base rock. This is to aid in the seeding of the base from the live rock, and is done in an acceptable time scale.
If you want to buy some base rock, and actually cure it outside of the aquarium, then it needs to be cured in a Rubbermaid container or separate tank, and normal live rock included to aid in seeding the rock. Again, this is going to be a very lengthy process.
Question – My tank has been running a few weeks and I am starting to get a covering of brown all over my rock and sand. What is it and should I be worried about it? How am I supposed to remove it?
Answer – All new aquariums have to go through a first initial stage of getting established. One of the commonly seen parts of this is a “Diatom Algae Bloom”. This is the covering of brown algae all over the rock, sand and glass. Diatoms are basically single celled microscopic forms. Diatoms feed mainly off silicates or silica acid in the aquarium, and when the silicates start to fade and reduce, so does the diatoms. The amount of silicates available will determine that strength of the diatom bloom. This is something that we just have to live with and live through. It does pass, but takes a little time. We just have to ensure that we keep good flow in the tank, and maybe siphon out any large build up.
Sand
Question - What type of sand do we have to use?
Answer – There is no type of sand that you “have” to use, however, there are some types of sand, which are recommended. The most common type of substrate used in today’s marine aquaria is Aragonite Reef Sand. This type of sand is very fine and is roughly equivalent to sugar grain size. The type of sand offers a very good buffering agent for keeping the pH in balance. As an average weight, you will need roughly 1lb of sand per gallon of water.
Question - Can use silica sand for my bottom?
Answer – Silica sand is not a good choice for marine substrate; it will do nothing to buffer pH, is very two-dimensional to support microbial life, and will compact very easily and create anaerobic zones.
Question - What is the big deal with the amount of sand used?
Answer – The amount of sand used in the tank is mainly dependant on personal preference. A deep sand bed will allow anaerobic bacteria to convert the nitrates in the tank water into a harmless by product, Nitrogen and the nitrogen gas will then get released by our sand stirring fish and inverts.
Question - Is it possible to use good old beach sand from the Ocean?
Answer – Beach sand is probably one of the worst types of sand to collect and use as a substrate in your aquarium. It is mainly going to be high in silica content, which will lead to algae blooms in the tank. The other issue to consider is pollutants. How many times have you been at the beach and seen the waste and gunk on the beach? This question sort of answers itself. Would you want that to be going into your aquarium? You basically have no idea what has been passed through the sand that you’re collecting which turns it into an unknown quantity. You ALWAYS need to know and understand what is going into your system.
Fish
Question – What fish can I keep in my Nano or 30 Gallon tank?
Answer – Below is a list of common fish that can be kept in tanks of 30 Gallons or less.
Basslets
Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Chalk Basslet (Serranus tortugarum) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Blennies
Bicolor Blenny (Ecsenius bicolor) Length: 4", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Black and Yellow Blenny (Ecsenius lividanalis) Length: 2", Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
Two Spot Blenny (Ecsenius stigmatura) Length: 2-1/2", Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
Two Spot Bimaculatus Blenny (Ecsenius bimaculatus) Length: 1-1/2", Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
Cardinalfish
Bangai Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Flame Cardinal (Apogon sp.) Length: 4", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Pajama Cardinal (Sphaeramia nematoptera) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Clownfish
Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion percula) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) Length: 3", Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Pink Skunk Clownfish (Amphiprion perideraion) Length: 4", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Tomato Clownfish (Amphiprion frenatus) Length: 5", Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Dartfish
Orange Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica) Length: 3"
Purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora) Length: 3"
Gobies
Clown Gobies
Yellow (Gobiodon okinawae) Length: 1-1/2”
Green (Gobiodon atrangulatus) Length: 1-1/2”
Citrinis (Gobiodon citrinis) Length: 2”
Brown (Gobiodon sp) Length: 1-1/2”
Black (Gobiodon strangulates) Length: 1-1/2”
Panda (Paragobius lacunicolus) Length: 1-1/2”
Blue Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops) Length: 2”
Golden Neon Goby (Elacatinus sp.) Length: 3”
Greenbanded Goby (Elacatinus multifasciatus) Length: 2”
Red Head Goby (Elacatinus puncticulatus) Length: 2”
Trimma Goby (Trimma sp.) Length: 1”
Red Striped Goby (Trimma cana) Length: 1”
Yellow Watchman Goby (Cryptcentrus cinctus) Length: 3”
Orange Stripe Prawn Goby (Amblyeleotris randalli) Length: 3-1/2”
Hi Fin Red Banded Goby (Stonogobiops nematodes) Length: 1-1/2”
Two Spot Goby (Signigobius biocellatus) Length: 3”
Hawkfish
Falco Hawkfish (Cirrhitichty falco) Length: 3”
Flame Hawkfish (Neocirrhitus armatus) Length: 4”
Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus) Length: 5”
Pseudochromis
Fridman’s Pseudochromis (Pseudochomris fridmani) Length: 3”
Neon Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis aldabraensis) Length: 4”
Bicolor Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis paccagnellae) Length: 2”
Springer’s Pseudochromis (Pseudochromis springeri) Length: 3-1/2”
Wrasses
Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheillinus hexataenia) Length: 3”
Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse (Paracheillinus carpenteri) Length: 3”
Yellow Fin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus flavidorsalis) Length: 3”
Exquisite Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus exquisitus) Length: 4”
Question – Can I make my own fish food?
Answer - Yes, certainly. The first thing that needs to be assessed is what inhabitants you have in the aquarium and then use that knowledge as a basis to create your own food. Some of the very commonly purchased foods from a local fishmonger include Scallops, Krill, Silverside, Squid (remove the ink pack), Clams, and Raw Tiger Prawn. All these types of seafood can be coarsely chopped or blended, frozen in ice trays and put in the freezer. This then gives you a good staple diet or various food types and is far cheaper than buying commercially branded products.
Added into this seafood mix is Nori dried seaweed, vitamins and garlic. The Nori gives that extra balance of available food and the garlic gives the natural immune system a good boost.
Inverts
Question – My Coral Banded Shrimp has lost an arm. Will it grow back?
Answer – The basic answer to this is yes, however this will be achieved over a series of moults providing a good concentration of iodine is present in the water column.
Question – What are all the different snails and crabs? And what do they all do?
Answer – I shall split this into two parts, snails and crabs for ease of reading.
Snails (All Reef Safe)
Turbo Snail – These are an algae eating snail. They will happily graze on the live rock or glass. One of the most common snails in the home aquaria.
Nerite Snail – These feed on Cyanobacteria, algae and detrius. A good scavenger snail.
Nassarius Snail – A real good scavenger snail as these will feed on fish waste, uneaten foods and decaying organics. People have mentioned these before to be a threat in the home aquarium by preying on a sick fish. However, the fish will normally be near enough dead before these snails start to consume the fish.
Trochus Snail – Very similar feeding habits of the Nerite snail as it will feed on Cyanobacteria, algae and detritus. Point to note with these is that they are usually unable to turn themselves over when upside down on the sand bed and does require human intervention.
Astraea Snail – Predominantly this is an algae grazer and will spend time either on the side of the aquarium or on the rock. Again, if these fall upside down on the sand bed, they will require human intervention.
Mexican Turbo Snail – Another of the most common snails in the home aquarium. This type of snail feeds a lot on film algae and will spend most, if not all of its time on the glass of the tank.
Cerith Snail – This type of snail is deemed as the best snail to have in the home aquarium due to the types of food this snail feeds on. This type of snail will feed on detrius, decaying matter, food waste, fish waste and many types of plague algae. This snail will spend all its time buried in the sand bed and will always surface when the tank is being fed.
Crabs (Reef Safe unless stated)
Blue Leg Hermit – This type of hermit crab will feed on cyanobacteria and green hair algae. Another valuable part this crab plays is that it will stir up the sand bed as it walks.
Red Leg Hermit – This no different in manner or actions than the blue leg hermit.
Zebra Hermit – As per the blue leg hermit. The only difference is that this hermit has one larger claw, which it will use to defend its home.
Sally Lightfoot Crab – This type of crab will feed off detrius and algae. There is a possibility of this crab feeding on small invertebrates or fish when it reaches full-grown size and, as such, is classed as semi-aggressive.
Mithrax Crab – These crabs will readily eat algae as its primary food source, however, they will also scavenge meat to supplement their own diet. These crabs are ideal for dealing with bubble algae.
Decorator Crab – (Not Reef Safe) this crab will feed on crabs, snails and soft corals. Its primary diet is meaty foods.
Stag horn Crab – (Not Reef Safe) this type of crab is ideally suited for spending life in the refugium, as it’s natural home is the rock rubble areas of the reef. Its main food source is the same as normal hermit crabs. This type of crab is usually recommended for the advanced aquarist who understands the needs for a biotope system.
Corals
Question - What is the different between soft coral, SPS and LPS coral?
Answer - Soft corals are types of coral that do not have a skeleton and as such, will simply droop over if there is no water flow around them. SPS Corals are small polyp stony corals. This type has small polyps over a stony skeleton. LPS or large polyp stony has large polyps on stony skeleton.
Question – What can I use to attach a coral frag to a lump of live rock?
Answer – Depending on the type of coral, there are various different methods used to achieve this. A couple of the more common ways of attaching is by either using Superglue Gel or marine safe Epoxy. However, these two options may not always be acceptable. Other basic ways are to use a cocktail stick to hold it in place, nylon fishing line or elastic bands. All methods are tried and true with a proven track record. All you’re trying to achieve is to keep the coral in place until it attaches itself to the live rock. If you have used fishing line, elastic bands or a cocktail stick, they can be removed afterwards. A lot of people worry about using marine epoxy due to the colour being very apparent (grey or white), however, this will eventually be covered over with coralline algae and will not be seen.
Question – I want some hardy corals to start of with, as I am a beginner. What would you suggest?
Answer – Some very basic, hardy and easy to look after corals are Finger Leather, Cabbage leather, Toadstool leather, Colt coral, and most tree corals, Mushroom, Zooanthid Polyps, Yellow or Green Star Polyps.
I hope you enjoy this article and maybe learn from my experience of keeping marine aquaria, and maybe in the future, pass this knowledge on to somebody else that is new.
Everything contained in this article is merely my own opinions and knowledge. It is, however, backed up by practical experience.
