Just transferred ich puffers to NEW QT

[JLAudio]

OK, so I got my two puffers into a 10 gallon qt in the stand of my sump. My question is about their setup. In the past I have had trouble keeping parameters stable in a qt because of the lack of biological filtration (lost a few fish due to this, my nitrite kept going up).

this is what I did please tell me what I am missing:

1) 10 gallon glass tank
2) heater kept at 82
3) one of those gravel filters for freshwater setups (removed carbon) and installed some of the filter pad from my return sock to add biological filtration. This is attached to air pump for increase in oxygen
4) hang on back filter (removed carbon) also used piece of sock filter pad for biological filtration
5)there was a brand new bag of gravel I used for bottom (I wasnt sure about this one). I added a cup of my live sand to the mix
6) 3 softball pieces of live rock, set up to provide hiding

This is it so far. I am not putting on a light just using the natural sunlight w/ doors open.

I am keeping SG at 1.012 and tying to not use copper unless necessary than I am going to remove rock.

ANy thoughts?

 

[georgelc86]

I think your good. Don't think you need the gravel/sand for a substrate, let alone any substrate at all. As for the live rock, I would take precaution in placing that live rock you bought into your main tank since when some diseases such as marine ich are in their cyst stage (not sure if thats the correct word), they will attach themselves to the rock and may hatch in your display tank. Diffinatly cure it if you choose to place those peices into the tank. A piece or two of pvc may be better, easier to clean. But of course that depends on the size of animal your QTing.

 

[JLAudio]

Yea george, i deifintly hear you, its just that I dont want the lack of bio filtration cause spikes in paramaters. I dont plan on putting the rock back in the tank, but just keeping it as my qt rock. If the fish has ich, I will use fresh dips, hypo and higher temp rather than copper the water

 

[thepudge]

I would probably remove the substrate and liverock. Use some pvc pipe for shelter and use an old filter bag or sponge from your main tank to provide some extra biological filtration. The hypo is going to kill any inverts (not bacteria) on the live rock and could actually lead to an ammonia spike. Hypo should take care of the ich -- I dont think you'll need the FW dips or the high temp. Also make sure you lower the sg to 1.009,. 1.012 isnt going to be effective. Keep a close eye on PH, as low ph with hypo is a common problem. Make sure you QT for 6 weeks and leave the main tank devoid of fish during this period. Oh and last thing -- when measuring sg make sure you use a refractometer, as swing-arms are not accurate. How much would it suck to keep your tank fallow for 6 weeks and end up right where you started?

*Don't use copper and hypo at the same time -- this is way to stressful on the fish

I know this is a pain, but after experiencing ich long enough, I am convinced that its the only way to deal with it. Otherwise your new fish are always going to have the added stress of dealing with the ich in your tank.

 

[basiab]

I do not recall the specifics for going hypo but when using copper you want no rock and bare bottom. Your best bet is to read regardless of what method you use and follow instructions. If not then you are just experimenting and then your chances of saving the fish are very low. My fish were very sick and loaded with ick and looked like they would not make it through the night. But copper did the trick. And when you use copper all you can do is make water changes because even if there was bacteria it would be killed off.

 

[JLAudio]

I will take the rock out. Is the gravel bad too?

 

[JLAudio]

And if ph drops as a reult of the hyposalinity, what should I use to adjust it? A buffer?

 

[georgelc86]

The other thing with live rock also is that the rock can become a sponge and "absorb" the copper from the water.

 

[JLAudio]

live rock is out, now im gonna remove substrate.

 

[thepudge]

Go slow! Remove the rock today and the substrate over a couple of days -- everything you do should be done gradually or you'll run the risk of ammonia spike. Keep water changes on hand, and keep measuring ammonia and nitrite, if they start to rise, do some water changes. Use buffer to keep up PH if it drops, but test first.

 

[georgelc86]

How are the puffers looking so far?

 

[JLAudio]

One which was a really small dogface has died, but he never looked good from day one. I should have used my better judgement and not got him or least had fish guy feed him first in front of me.

As for the porcupine he seems to be doing better in dimmly lit QT, however hes not eating the way a typical puffer eats. Its only been one day in qt and Im feeding him garlic soaked clams. His ich is pretty minimal and hes quite active. He looks pretty good but im keeping him there for a few weeks to make sure. As of now, no fish have showed any signs of ich besides them

 

[JLAudio]

Now it appears my sailfin tang has some ich. Could I add some ruby red or any other supplement to the main tank? to make sure this doesnt infect others

 

[JLAudio]

Im currently dropping overall salinity in the tank. It is at 1.017 and I will drop to 1.015 by tonight and about 5 gallon change a day (taking 5 salt replacing 5 rodi no salt) till its at 1.012 and try that for a cpl weeks

 

[basiab]

Now it is not a qt tank but a hospital tank.

 

[mluz]

Just my .02 cents, but i thought i had lowered my salinity to 1.009 and left my fish in that for about six weeks, of course doing regular water changes. I did not have any gravel or rock in the QT tank as was recommended in many articles that i read. Also left my main display fallow.
Well after six weeks i slowly raised my salinity to the same as the display tank. a few weeks after reintroducing my fish, 2 have died so far and they are full of ick. So i bought a refractometer and tested my QT tank water and guess what, it was at 1.012 not 1.009 like i thought as it was recommended by many other reefers and articles.

Moral of the story don't waste your time with leaving your tank at 1.012 chances are that ick will return, better to get it to 1.009 and make sure you wait at least 6 weeks if not more.

Just my experience.