Students from P.S. 58 Asking For Advice

[PS58 Reefteacher]

The students in my fifth grade science class would like to know any tips or suggestions you have for making sure that the fish we have in our current aquarium system can live the longest and healthiest lives?

We would also like to know how we can minimmize the trauma our seven marine fish including a Bengaii Cardinalfish, Flaming Hawkfish, Pygmy Angel, Fuse Goby, 2 hybrid clownfish can from our 40 gallon system into the 75 gallon bowfront aquarium?

Thanks
:tub:

 

[prattreef]

I'll let other people chime in because it is just too easy if I do

 

[aznt1217]

^ lol at Prattreef (Randy?)

I'll be the first to say it, What are the specifications of your system?

Based on the assumption you have at least live rock and are just keeping FOWLR, the best way to keep a fish alive the longest is to decrease as many possibilities of stress as possible. This ranges from Water Parameters to Compatability. I am going to state everything assuming the system is barebones because funding I am sure is limited.

- Buy the best food you possibly can (something with Garlic in it preferrably and feed a variety of different types if possible). I like Spectrum Pellets, CycloPeeze, and Frozen Mysis.... and so do my fish.

- Make sure your fish are compatible with each other. I don't see any problems on that list.

- Acclimation when you first buy a fish is important (but the fact that you have them already it is irrelevant)-- more on this if necessary.

- Fish can survive nitrates but make sure it's within good reason that their species tolerates. I will get some crap for this, but I have had fish in 165 ppm (not on purpose) and they were all healthy. Granted, I don't keep my nitrates over 5ppm any more. Also make sure there are as little fluctuations as possible. Like I said change=stress=bad for fish=epic fail. That's the formula haha.

- Run a protein skimmer and carbon or do a water change more often (I find this annoying). I am a very simple man and view these 2 pieces of a tank as a must.

- Tank transfer, assuming your tank is established this is how I have fared and what I have done in my tank transfers all with 100% success rate and 0 Fatality. I will get flack for this but hey it worked for me and was prepared. I took 80% of the water in my old aquarium and put it in the new one (I went from 54->72 Bow w/ 20 sump) and put the inhabitants with powerhead and heater inside a rubbermaid tub with my old water.

First I put in my existing sandbed with new sand (mixed it up a little with my hands) then I put established water, then new, then established till it was full (using the Vase/Plastic Bag Method so there's less of a sand storm and stirring of detritus). After about 4 hours of doing this to finishing my aquascaping, I threw my carbon in and let it run for an hour along with my skimmer. After that, I put the inhabitants in. They were eating within 30 minutes and were seeking new spots in their home.

 

[Quang]

Aside from the things aznt1217 helpfully mentioned, another important factor to keep in mind is temperature. Make sure your tank temp. corresponds with the recommended or native temperature of the water where the fish was collected/raised.

For this I recommend a heater (preferably two) and if you can afford one, a controller of sorts. This should be sufficient to maintain your temperature during the winter months, but come summer, you might have to add a cooling system (fans or maybe a chiller).

Again, during your tank move, make sure the temperatures between the two tanks, or wherever you're temporarily housing the fish, are very close as to not stress the fish.

Good luck!

 

[aznt1217]

I was assuming temp was a given . Just kidding.... slipped my mind.

 

[prattreef]

Excellent answers both of you Kids are you listening? Come Friday, we will be doing pretty much exactly as described above.

Others please chime in, I'll be working with the kids all year long, so other people's perspectives are more than welcome. As we all know, there is more than one way to go about these things.

Randy

 

[KathyC]

To help your fish live long happy lives maintain the proper water parameters, feed a healthy, varied diet that meets the particular fishes requirements - but do not overfeed, do a water change weekly, and maintain your equipment properly.


The above suggestions for the tank upgrade are all great but I have an important one to add.
Have a temporary holding tank ready beforehand for the fish to move into that has the following:
-an AIRPUMP, airline & airstone - the fish MUST have oxygen in the holding tank!
-a cover for the holding tank - stressed fish tend to jump
-a heater set to the proper temp
-a small powerhead - pointed toward the surface of the water
-a quiet place for the holding tank
-ideally use water from the existing tank, or new sw

Also have a holding tank ready for the live rock with a heater & powerhead and keep it submersed entirely

If you are changing the sand (or adding any) rinse it before hand to minimize tasks on the day of the move.

Proper preparation and an organized plan will ensure success

 

[Chraddam]

I have some xenia and maybe some zoas left for the kids' tank-LMK if you want them.

 

[prattreef]

Thanks, nice offer. It will be a few weeks before we're ready for any new animals though.

 

[basiab]

One thing to add to Kathy's list. If you do set up a holding tank with new water make sure it is same temp and PH and salinity of the old. And of course the same goes for the new tank.

 

[prattreef]

Woohoo-- tank setup and transfer day. Several MR members will descend upon the school in the later afternoon and help that magical transformation occur.... MR style. Hopefully, we'll get some pics posted.

 

[Quang]

best wishes!

 

[nanoreefer22]

Can't wait to see those pics!

 

[prattreef]

Well, the conversion is complete and all went extremely well--- a testament to good planning on my part and impeccable execution by the MR A Team--Tosiek, Slamma, and Kris. Awesome job guys. The system looks fantastic, and after it fully clears, we'll post some pics. Thanks again to all who donated to this project---Jesse(Stoneriff) for the tank, stand and sump, Jon (JRobbins), for the skimmer, Jarrettshark for the canopy, Saltwatercritters for the T-5's and a bunch of other stuff along the way---the kids are going to flip come Monday morning. And that is what this project is all about. More to come......

 

[Slamajamajama]

i think we could do these tank raisings in our sleep...

 

[jnohs]

I would like to mention that one thing all reef animals really appreaciate is stability. If th ph constantly move to 8 and is not the perfect 8.2 in stead of constanlty trying to fix it just leave it alone. the live stok will respond better if just left alone. In my 75 galloon reef. when I first started was allways testing and tring to get all the readings perfect. and I never had much coral growth. but then my wife had our baby and I didnt touch the tank for 3 weeks. Other then top off water and boom I had a growth explostion. There is no right answer in this hobby. even the specs that some people try to keep vary among the oceans of the world. From salinity, ph, temp,alk, cal but the one thing that is constiant among the reef regardless of the location is that the reading no matter what they remain constant for that region. jsut like humans there is no perfect setting we can live in the tropics, forest, up in the mountains or where ever. it is the same for the reefs of the world obvilousey they can not be in fresh water of really low ph but the levels can vary and as long as it is constiant something will find a nitch and grow.

Also I would like to recommend feeding as little as possiable. feeding is the easiest way to dirty your water. if you have clean water and dont add anything then you still have clean water. but once you add food there goes the water quality. i have managed to make a small food chain in my tank and have not feed in about 3 months. my fish poops then my alge grows as a result of the additional nitrates and amonia then a small critter eats the alge then something eats that small critter, all the way around to my fish and back out his but.

 

[jnohs]

also i remember one of my science teachers had a fish tank and some one was allways putting something in it. kids are crazy and will mess with the tank. not to be mean but just to mess around and sometime with bad results especially with a reef tank. i would recomen sealing off the tank some how. i remeber watching some one pour acid in my science teaches tank and watching all the fish float to the top imediatly. so just be prepared for some one to mess with it. courisity killed the cat or the reef tank.

 

[jnohs]

Also forget adjusting levels by adding products. If something reads wrong or way off the easiest answer is a water change. new make up water is perfect and better than additives. because when doing a water change to correct a water problem you will also be fixing any other off levels and performing a water change. and now you do not need all those fancy snake oils. I was just reading a post called "eyeball test" and the topic was who test and how. A lot of advanced reefers came back with a reply of " i perform the eyeball test" if something looks wrong then do a water change. if it looks fine dont touch or maybe a water change. you can never go wrong with a water change.

These are just my thoughs and not what you hve to do. just some food for thought. there is no right answer in this hobby. I run a tank with no sand because i dont like how nasty it gets. some people disagree with me to the fullest. but my tank growth dissagres with them. I am not trying recreate the entire ocean biotope just a small piece. have recreated a small side of a reef. there for no sand for me.

 

[Slamajamajama]

im kinda curious of what the tank (at the school) looks like...? thxs

 

[nanoreefer22]

im kinda curious of what the tank (at the school) looks like...? Thxs

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