Ammonia reading--I'm so confused
- Thread starter LaurieC
- Start date
- Location
- UES, Manhattan
+1
Are you confused because of the different colors? Different test kits probably use different pigments, that's all...
The different colors are ok since they come with their own results range, but the one looked closer to the 0 and the other to .2 to me, so I wanted some other opinions. All fish and inverts, including shrimp are active, eatting and seem normal. I guess I'll just see if the ammonia goes down on it's own naturally.
- Location
- Franklin Lakes, NJ
Test a known sample of 0 ammonia water and compare the colors. Sometimes it's very hard to tell what color it falls under, so if you have a 0 for comparison, it helps.
Also, make sure you follow all directions exactly. If it says to let it sit for one minute, set a timer. The color can become darker as it sits, so make sure you're checking it at exactly the right time.
I hate test kits...
Also, make sure you follow all directions exactly. If it says to let it sit for one minute, set a timer. The color can become darker as it sits, so make sure you're checking it at exactly the right time.
I hate test kits...
I agree beerfish! Thank you, I do use timers--down to the second--didn't at first but soon started. They are very helpful. I had LFS test the water and they said it was ok according to their tests. I added the BioSpira to bump up the bacteria anyhow as a precaution. I'm watching the fish, everyone closely and have a batch of water on hand and AmQuel should something go awry.
- Location
- Franklin Lakes, NJ
I've had RO/DI water look like the tube on the right with some test kits. I think you're most likely ok, but it's good that you have precautions in place just to be safe. Have you tested for Nitrites?
Yes, I get 0.2 on Nitrites so that's a tad high too. I used LR to cycle that had been in another tank and someone told me that what might have happened was that I had a little cycle, then the bacteria ran out of stuff to eat and died back a little. Also, I had an issue with one of my canister filters getting clogged from sand kick up and had to clean it out--without realizing I shouldn't rinse the media with tap water, I did (now I know better). I may have killed some of my bacteria colony doing that too, so while all the tests were fine pre-fish and for the first fish, the new fish caused a new little cycle. This is what I suspect anyhow. I've been watching it and testing daily since Monday and ammonia has gone down while Nitrite and Nitrate have stayed the same. I just really hope it doesn't do something crazy while I'm out of town and my husband, who has zero fish tank experience, is looking out for the tank. I wonder if you can add too much bacteria--ie I wonder if the ammonia is still up Fri. night before I leave, if I should add another bottle of BioSpira to the tank
- Location
- Duluth, Minnesota
The reason Laurie they look a little different is the ranges are so far part. The leff range is 0 - 0.8 ppm and the one on the right is 0 - 7.5 ppm. The farther the ranges are apart the more skew color there will be. The one on the left is the one to use. Lastly, the on the left is giving Ammonia as Ammonia-N and the right as Ammonia. This is like comparing mph to kph or cm to inches and needs to be converted.
Ammonia = Ammonia -N x ~1.3
Ammonia = ~0.2 Ammonia-N x ~1.3 = ~0.26 or the same as the kit on the right @ 0.25 ppm
Ammonia = Ammonia -N x ~1.3
Ammonia = ~0.2 Ammonia-N x ~1.3 = ~0.26 or the same as the kit on the right @ 0.25 ppm
bad coffee
Inept at life.
- Location
- Location: Location:
they both say 'you have ammonia in your tank'
That's about all you need to REALLY need to know.
Both tests use a pigment that turns the sample green. Until you do a test that comes as pure yellow, you have ammonia.
Once you have no ammonia, then you can add animals. And if you're like most, you won't ever use the ammonia test kit again.
B
That's about all you need to REALLY need to know.
Both tests use a pigment that turns the sample green. Until you do a test that comes as pure yellow, you have ammonia.
Once you have no ammonia, then you can add animals. And if you're like most, you won't ever use the ammonia test kit again.
B
- Location
- Hudson Yards
IMHO the best bacteria product out there is Microbe-Lift. I've used the recommended combination of Special Blend and Niteout-II for unaticipated cycling that occurred after I moved. I coupled that with an ammonia and nitrite detoxifyer (Seachem's Prime) to help mitigate the potential loss of any tank inhabitants. Most, if not all of these are available at Petco.
- Location
- Duluth, Minnesota
B
That's about all you need to REALLY need to know.
100% correct, usually
Both tests use a pigment that turns the sample green. Until you do a test that comes as pure yellow, you have ammonia.
That is because these are Salicylate Method test kits. However, this is not always the case with Nessler's Method test kits. These give shades of yellow, which can give false Ammonia readings when using a dechloraminator to remove ammonia like Amquel or Prime, others.
That's about all you need to REALLY need to know.
100% correct, usually
Both tests use a pigment that turns the sample green. Until you do a test that comes as pure yellow, you have ammonia.
That is because these are Salicylate Method test kits. However, this is not always the case with Nessler's Method test kits. These give shades of yellow, which can give false Ammonia readings when using a dechloraminator to remove ammonia like Amquel or Prime, others.
OzoneParkGuy
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Ozone Park
See refuses to listen and continues to want to add other chemicals to try and remove ammonia instead of waiting. But yet she states she'll wait it out naturally.
Research and patience Laurie, KathyC and I both stated to wait a few more weeks as your tank may still be cycling.
Research and patience Laurie, KathyC and I both stated to wait a few more weeks as your tank may still be cycling.
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