Phosphate issues

[bigdog1428]

Hey guys ,, I dint have a phosphate test yet, but a fellow member stopped by and saw i have purple algae grownin on my sand ,, I thought it was coraline algae,, he said it was cyano which is caused by high phosphates . How do u get rid of phosphates, water changes,, chemicals, I'm buying a phosphate test tomb morn. Thanks in advance


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[ZANYMASTER]

Get yourself a media reactor and use Phosban or something like it.

 

[bigdog1428]

Is there a temp solution untill I get one ???


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[masterswimmer]

Eddie, cyanobacteria is not an algae, it is just as the name suggests, a bacteria.
You can work on combating cyano by incorporating the following into your routine:

- reduce feeding (most people overfeed)
- reduce your photo period (lighting time)
- increase in tank flow
- more frequent water changes
- add sand sifting inverts (nassarius snails, cerith snails, sand sifting stars, sea cucumbers)
- rinse frozen foods with RO/DI water before feeding it to your tank

Doing some or a combination of a few of the above should help,

Russ

 

[fallenlordz]

+1 on what masterswimmer said

 

[tangmaniac]

eddie, cyanobacteria is not an algae, it is just as the name suggests, a bacteria.
You can work on combating cyano by incorporating the following into your routine:

- reduce feeding (most people overfeed)
- reduce your photo period (lighting time)
- increase in tank flow
- more frequent water changes
- add sand sifting inverts (nassarius snails, cerith snails, sand sifting stars, sea cucumbers)
- rinse frozen foods with ro/di water before feeding it to your tank

doing some or a combination of a few of the above should help,

russ

+2

 

[Imbarrie]

You can get small diameter tubing and vacuum it up.
Also, if you have a crushed coral base, you can use a python type vacuum on your substrate but only do this in the affected areas since substrate is a living media.
Phosban is a great idea also.

All the above mentioned methods address the effect. The underlying cause also needs to be addressed. Reduced lighting, reduced feeding, using a diverse CUC and checking your RODI supply. This is an ongoing battle for many reefers and there are no quick fixes.

Some people have seen benefits from Special Blend Microbe Lift. Petco sells this, so does Pets Warehouse. Under no circumstances would I use Red Slime Remover or anything similar to that.

 

[bigdog1428]

I'm looking into a phosban reactor, this looks like the best solution


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[blueink]

eddie, cyanobacteria is not an algae, it is just as the name suggests, a bacteria.
You can work on combating cyano by incorporating the following into your routine:

- reduce feeding (most people overfeed)
- reduce your photo period (lighting time)
- increase in tank flow
- more frequent water changes
- add sand sifting inverts (nassarius snails, cerith snails, sand sifting stars, sea cucumbers)
- rinse frozen foods with ro/di water before feeding it to your tank

doing some or a combination of a few of the above should help,

russ

+3

 

[PlanetAquaria]

Yup, phosban is by far the best solution. Prevention of phosphates is the best thing. But there is a new solution in the form of a reactor. I just started using this myself for the past month and a half. Not sure if I'm getting results as of yet. Its called the dried vodka method, also known as Bio Pellets. Its suppose to be similar to dosing your tank with vodka but safer and you don't have to measure or dose. You add this bio pellets into your reactor and it should last for about 3 months depending on your level of nitrates and phosphates.

How it works is the bio pellets contain carbon as you find in vodka. It slowly feeds the beneficial nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria in your tank and eventually they start multiplying and increasing their population which in turns utilize phosphates and nitrates. I'll post something up when I start getting results. I test my water for phosphates and nitrates weekly but haven't seen any huge results. Has anyone used this? I'd like to get a second opinion as well

 

[DrHarryLopez]

Bio Pellets! It works, its natural, n its maintenance free. It'll take a couple of weeks to colonize (mine took 24 days). Ck out my thread starting post #293

Good Luck

 

[Wes]

Biopellets are still unproven in my opinion. There are more and more people unhappy customers popping up on Reefcentral after their placebo effect wears off.

I'm not saying it doesn't work. But It seems to be less effective and more expensive than some other methods. It's a bandwagon I won't be jumping on anytime soon.


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[jadakiss]

hi dr. my ? is they say that u can leave the pellets there for 6mths then empty and add again. what do u think? can a phosban reactor be ok for the pellets and is it suppose to flow crazy or tumble like phosban media.

 

[DrHarryLopez]

Biopellets are still unproven in my opinion. There are more and more people unhappy customers popping up on Reefcentral after their placebo effect wears off.

I'm not saying it doesn't work. But It seems to be less effective and more expensive than some other methods. It's a bandwagon I won't be jumping on anytime soon.


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Bio-pellets have been around a bit now. Like anything in this hobby all other parameters must be in place. I find it ironic that people who are having problems blame the bio-pellets while people who are having success don't say much. I have documented my results. I find that my success is partly based on the bio-pellets for reduction of Nitrates and phosphates.

Its more effective n effiecient. No changing out dirty phosban. Price is relevent as you may only need to replace the pellets every 2 - 6 months. 500 ml cost ` $40

 

[DrHarryLopez]

hi dr. my ? is they say that u can leave the pellets there for 6mths then empty and add again. what do u think? can a phosban reactor be ok for the pellets and is it suppose to flow crazy or tumble like phosban media.

As the media decreases you add more pellets. No cleaning or removal of the pellets is involved. The phosban reactor may be used with flow that tumbles the pellets.

Harry

 

[jadakiss]

but must all the media tumble?

 

[Wes]

Bio-pellets have been around a bit now. Like anything in this hobby all other parameters must be in place. I find it ironic that people who are having problems blame the bio-pellets while people who are having success don't say much. I have documented my results. I find that my success is partly based on the bio-pellets for reduction of Nitrates and phosphates.

I have been following biopellet threads for quite a while now. Many people still use GFO while using Biopellets because the Biopellets alone will not keep the phosphate levels low enough. This is why I think they are too expensive for what they do.

Just use GFO and call it a day.


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[DrHarryLopez]

but must all the media tumble?

all the media should tumble.

 

[DrHarryLopez]

I have been following biopellet threads for quite a while now. Many people still use GFO while using Biopellets because the Biopellets alone will not keep the phosphate levels low enough. This is why I think they are too expensive for what they do.

Just use GFO and call it a day.


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GFO should be used until the pellets colonize. I dont use any media GFO, or carbon.

good Luck

 

[Boomer]

Eddie, cyanobacteria is not an algae, it is just as the name suggests, a bacteria.
You can work on combating cyano by incorporating the following into your routine:

- reduce feeding (most people overfeed)
- reduce your photo period (lighting time)
- increase in tank flow
- more frequent water changes
- add sand sifting inverts (nassarius snails, cerith snails, sand sifting stars, sea cucumbers)
- rinse frozen foods with RO/DI water before feeding it to your tank

Doing some or a combination of a few of the above should help,

Russ

Eddie

Cyano are often called by their old name, Blue-Green Algae, often by some shortening it to "algae". Long ago it was found that that really are not algae but a form of bacteria and the name was change. What Russ gives here is about that best that helps. However, there are other things involved often not heard of. Phospahte, contrary to popular believe, is not really the big target for control, although we do need to keep it very low. You will find reefers often complaining about cynao with "zero" phosphate. Cyano are a unique group of organisms and are capable of extracting phosphate by other means. For example, they can convert organic phosphate, which a kit does not measure, to phosphate extracellular using an enzyme. They can also extra bound phosphate from sand. Other helpful controls in Cyano control are not having so called "zero" Nitrate, as Nitrate is more of a limiter to Cyano than phosphate. Second, having to high a pH and low Alk also favors Cyano's over other algae. Cyano can thrive and out complete other algae's in a high pH, low CO2 and low NO3-environments. Wrong lighting is another issue, as is poor circulation. In Russ's scheme, you should be doing all those things. The biggest issues are collected detritus on the bottom, over feeding and poor circulation.